King Pin Kits

[Boydoggie]

Howdy, I am new to the forum and to posting, I'm also the proud new owner of a 53 B4B. I like this truck and want to give it the help that it needs.It does not like to turn or stop.Steering is as bad as it gets.You have to brace your legs against something to turn the wheels. So I am ordering new front end parts thanks to the links I found here. Question...There are three different King Pin Kits,one with a nylon bearing, one with a metal bearing and one with roller bearings.They all have the same oilite bushings and the rest seems the same.I'm trying to get the right part but I don't know the difference.

[Merle Coggins]

Welcome to our little family.

Steering will be quite difficult when sitting still. Once it's rolling it should steer OK. Before going through the trouble of replacing the king pins check the play in the steering knuckle. If it moves quite a bit then go ahead and replace them. If there is just a little bit of movement, grease them up well and go with 'em. While you're under there check the lube in your steering gear box. If it's dry it'll add to your steering problems.

That being said, to answer your question... get a king pin set with metal bushings and thrust bearings. You'll be glad you spent the little extra once it's all done.

Merle

[41/53dodges]

welcome to the group!

i dont know about the kingpins kits, but i do know about the steering. how long was this truck sitting? mine sat for about 30 years and was pretty stiff anyways. try jacking up the front end, then try it. the pins & links are generally stiff after sitting awhile. have you checked the joints? my shaft between the gearbox & right wheel was toast, made a new one, steers like new!

good luck!

[ggdad1951]

Welcome!

agree w/ Merle...IF you have to replace, the metal and bearing kit from NAPA worked great for me!

[JBNeal]

if you're having trouble stopping, ya might want to go through the entire 50+ yr old braking system. If there are no visible leaks, the master cylinder is at fault; could be from worn seal, could be from pits in the bore. I've seen new kits on eBay, far cheaper than the route I took in '99 of having my master cylinder & wheel cylinders sleeved. If the pedal is firm, then the shoes will need adjustment, requiring pulling the drums off & using a special tool (use the search engine here to find out how to fabricate one for a modest cost).

A warning on brake cylinder rebuild kits on eBay: if it's 50+ yr old NOS, the rubber is practically useless. It may be the correct size, but more than likely it has set too hard to seal properly. The same goes for NOS seals (rubber or leather).

[DollyDodge]

I just did the king pin with the metal bearings. It really does make a difference. My truck turned easily before, but it just seems smoother now, and it wasn't too big of a job.

[41/53dodges]

autozone has MC kits, i think it was around $15 or so. mine still works great!

[moparmonkey]

Welcome!

I agree with whats above. If you're used to modern cars or power steering, the steering on these old trucks will seem really difficult when its sitting still even if all the parts are working properly. Same goes for braking, its an old manual brake set up with drums, so even with everything working properly it won't stop like anything modern. But that's not to say it shouldn't stop or steer, just that if you're only reference is new stuff you may have to lower your expectations a little.

Before I ordered anything, I'd put the front end up on jacks, get a grease gun and lubricate all the steering and suspension joints. Then I'd check the steering again and see if there was any play in it while it was still up in the air.

As far as the brakes go, you're going to have to pull the drums and inspect everything. Check for pad wear and leaks. If that looks good I'd flush the system with new fluid until it runs out of the wheel cylinders relatively clean. If it hasn't been done in awhile (or ever), the brake fluid will probably look like chocolate milk when you start draining the system.

Edited November 23, 2010 by moparmonkey

[Dave72dt]

Brakes are too important to guess if they are still good. Replace all the steel lines and rubber hoses and go through each part of the brake system. Brake lines also corrode from the inside out so what you think may look good on the outside will give out when you need them to work their very best.

[Boydoggie]

Thankyou to all for your help.I had the front end checked out by an old Mopar nut. The king pins are bad.The drag link has a 3 foot long piece of angle iron bolted and welded to it.Looks like accident repair. So I'll be going through and replacing what ever it needs.I have a new master cylinder,thanks to the former owner.I need the winsheld wiper posts, somebody took em off to prime the truck and there gone.

[ggdad1951]

start your search now for a drag link...I got mine from a site member for a EXCELLENT price, if you buy a new one, you better be sitting down when you look at the price!

[Paul Beard]

New drag links should be available thru NAPA

[41/53dodges]

for only about $319.99!

(they should be gold plated for that!)

i replaced mine by modifying one from an F-250. it was about $45 total, and works much better than the old one, but some states wont allow any welded steering parts. i can give you info if you want that route, it is also adjustable.