Engine Removal

[Young Ed]

Harold I know a great shop in your area for the machine work. He did both the flatheads in my car and truck

[Cpt.Fred]

once again: another great thread on the board! so much to learn.

thanks for sharing everything so detailed and good luck with your further progress!

it makes me feel better about things to come on my own car in the future...

best,

fred

[aero3113]

I took a couple of parts into work with me today to clean in the parts cleaner. I cleaned the pickup screen and after I decided to pull the cover that goes over the screen. Take a look at what I found, and this was after I let it soak in the parts cleaner

Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113

[Don Coatney]

How much of that stuff is magnetic?

[aero3113]

How much of that stuff is magnetic?

I didn't think to check it with a magnet,I should have.

[aero3113]

I'm getting ready to order new engine mounts, I see upper and lower rear insulators for sale. When I dissembled my car it only had the upper insulators and the one rubber washer on the lower left but no lower insulators. Is a P-20 supposed to have the lower insulators also or is this correct? I did a search and found this post.

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=7610&highlight=engine+mounts

Edited November 17, 2010 by aero3113

[Alshere59]

I have a 1950 Plymouth aslo mine had both upper and lower when I disassembled the mount.

[aero3113]

I have a 1950 Plymouth aslo mine had both upper and lower when I disassembled the mount.

Great,thanks for the info.

[aero3113]

I finally received a phone call from my machine shop,he started to measure every thing up. I knew there was some damage in the #4 and #5 cylinders and it was worse than I thought, he will have to go .060 to clean them up. He also said he may have to line bore the mains. Will I notice a difference in power with the bigger pistons installed?

[greg g]

if he does all 6 you will pickup about 10/12 cubic inches. As they used to say there no replacement for more displacment. But based on the rebuild engine over the worn one, it probably gonna feel like it got more umph any way so how much is cu in and how much is proper compresson ratio hard to tell. Speaking of compression are you milleing the head or deck??

[aero3113]

He will be doing all six, I also left the head with him to mill .

Edited November 20, 2010 by aero3113

[aero3113]

Anyone use the Fel-pro intake and exhaust gasket set? I ordered the complete gasket kit from Rock Auto and these are included. I do not want to use them if they are going to fail sooner than later. Are they a good quality?

[Young Ed]

Why do you think they would be bad? I believe thats what I've been using in my 46 pickup since I switched the intake a few years ago.

[aero3113]

Why do you think they would be bad? I believe thats what I've been using in my 46 pickup since I switched the intake a few years ago.

Just checking to see if anyone had any issues with them. Would rather find out now then have to replace them again.

[martybose]

Anyone use the Fel-pro intake and exhaust gasket set? I ordered the complete gasket kit from Rock Auto and these are included. I do not want to use them if they are going to fail sooner than later. Are they a good quality?

I've used a FelPro kit from Rock Auto on my 47 for several years with no problem. When I took the top end of the motor apart this year all the gaskets were in perfect condition.

Marty

[Don Coatney]

I also used FEL-PRO gaskets on my engine. Only thing I did not like was they supplied rubber valve cover gaskets in the gasket set. I switched them out with cork gaskets. I used gasket adhesive on one side only on most of my gaskets. I then used a liberal application of grease on the other side. I have dropped my oil pan three times and re-used the original gaskets with no major leaks. Had I applied gasket sealent on both sides I would not have been able to do this.

[aero3113]

Thanks for the info guys, Don what kind of grease did you use for the gaskets? Do you think its a bad idea to use sealant on both sides? I know I will not be able to reuse them if taken apart in the future. (Don't want any leaks:D)

[Don Coatney]

Thanks for the info guys, Don what kind of grease did you use for the gaskets? I used whatever grease I had on hand Do you think its a bad idea to use sealant on both sides?Yes! I know I will not be able to reuse them if taken apart in the future. If you use grease you will be able to take apart in the future. (Don't want any leaks:D)

...

[aero3113]

I received my engine gasket kit from Rock Auto last week ($68). Today I decided to take a look and see what was included. When I ordered it they said that the rear main seal was not included but it was. I am glad to see that the cork seal for the distributor is included also,even the square o-ring for the oil pump cover too .

Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113

[aero3113]

I decided to attack my transmission rear seal today, not a bad job with the right tools. I used a strap wrench to hold the brake drum in place and used a inpact gun to get the nut off. I then used the pictured puller to remove the drum,for some reason the other pullers I have did not fit. I then used a screw driver and hammer to pry the old seal out. I also took some side by side shots of the seal so you can see old and new. I bought the new seal from Rock Auto for about $7.

Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113

[aero3113]

The drum has some grooves in it so I am going to run out and see if I can get it turned.

Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113

[P-12 Tommy]

Cool Keith! Thanks for the step by step with pictures.

Tom

[aero3113]

I got the drum all cleaned up,it cost me $30. I thought it was a little steep but got it back right away. I also included a pic of the new seal installed and the completed transmission. Now hopefully I will get my block back soon!

Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113

[aero3113]

I had some wear on my lower timing pulley so I ordered a speedie sleeve from Amazon.com ($29 including shipping). I received it today and installed it, installation is very easy. I also installed a new seal on the timing cover. I included a pic of the box for the speedie sleeve if anyone needs the part number.

Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113

[aero3113]

I also spoke to my engine shop today. The block was boiled, magnafluxed (checked good) and the cylinders were measured to be bored, all of my intake and exhaust valve guides were worn so I called Vintage power wagons and ordered new guides and valves. The block is being sent out to get the mains line bored and the crank is going to be cut. Once all of this is complete (hopefully soon) I can continue the build.

Edited January 21, 2011 by aero3113