westtexasrodder Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 (edited) I have a 1948 d24 and I love this car, it's all original but heres my problem. The car starts right up and idles great. I start down the road and all is well. A few miles from my house and usually in third gear the car starts to , what feels like, flood out and will die. wait a little bit or spray some ether in the carb and she pops right off and drives a little before she does it again. Any ideas? Edited July 15, 2010 by westtexasrodder post pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carls 49 Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 hi tex and welcome. good to have you here and great looking 48. maybe something to do with choke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westtexasrodder Posted July 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 well i the thermal choke and wired up a manual choke, didn't fix it. Checked my plugs, and put new plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and set the timing... still floods out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 16, 2010 Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 Town Sedan...welcome.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted July 16, 2010 Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 When this happens, pull of the top of the carb and see if there is any fuel i the float bowl, or if there might be too much. Could be something simple like a stuck needle and seat in the carb, or it could be fuel pump/line related. A simple thing to do is disconnect the fuel line at the tank side of the pump and blow some compressed air throughthe fuel line. While you do thie listen for bubbles audible at the filler. There is an in tank fuel filter that will get crudded up from rust floating aroun inthe tank, the air will clear it (at least temporarily) and allow good flow to the pump. then check the pump itself. The bottom chamber is held on by a hollow bolt. If you remove this you can remove the cover and inspect the brass screen and the bolt (its hollow) I had a similar symptom a few years ago, the screen was partially clogged, and there was a piece of something lodged in the hollow bolt that was acting like a flapper valve. It would allow the engine to start and idle, and run at low speed, but when the engine needed full flow, it would move and restrict the low through the bolt. also if you have any in line fuel filterr you might want to give it a check. If as you say it is flooding, while you have the top of the carb off. you should lower your float level a bit. You want ot bend the brass tab that contacts the needle valve so that the float will close it with less fuel inthe bowl. A couple 32nds usually does the trick. this will help especially with todays fuel mix and hot sumer temps tend to cause perculation of the fuel in the float bowl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westtexasrodder Posted July 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 I will do that today, I have put a rebuild kit into that carb and set the level according to the instructions (yes, I read the instructions ) but the take was full of gummed up gas and I need to get into it anyway to ,hopefully, get my gas gauge working. I didnt know about the in tank filter and will bet on that being a problem, if not the problem. The fuel pump is good but I will clean it, when I flushed the system of bad gas i gave it a once over as well as the lines. Thank you so much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westtexasrodder Posted July 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 (edited) the interior has been re-covered but the original interior is still under there. the previous owner did alot of band aids but not alot of repairs, but it does keep me from having to fix alot of someone elses problems Edited July 16, 2010 by westtexasrodder pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted July 16, 2010 Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 Is your speedo green, does it still change color. This was the Safety Sentinal feature, green to 30, yellow 30 to 50 red 50 + Perhaps you haven't driven at night to notice but thee is another post explaining how it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westtexasrodder Posted July 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 I'm not sure about the speedo but that'd be amazing. Greg thank you again for the advice, took about 30 minutes and I lowered the float, tooka apart the fuel pump and blew a healthy amt of air down the line. Car fired right up and I drowve it around the neighborhood bor about 15 minutes , twice as long as it used to take to act up. She drove around without a hitch. So i stopped for about 10 minutes and took off again, drove it on the highway and took it up to 70 for a few miles then up some really hilly roads ( well the biggest we have in west texas) and she ran like a sewing machine. I had to rev at the lights to make sure she was still running. Thanks again, I've been tinkering with this car for over a year now and today was the first time i trusted it on the highway. I've been getting so frustrated that I was planning on selling the car but i have a feeling that she's here to stay now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcDeSoto Posted July 19, 2010 Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 Don't forget the fuel line. I worked on a 48 Chrysler Windsor Six once that kept doing the hesitation waltz. We replaced the fuel pump, rebuilt the carburetor, and everything to no avail. Finally, he took it to a shop where they found a rust hole on top of the fuel line, way underneath the car, was sucking air!!! After replacing the bad line, problem was solved! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westtexasrodder Posted July 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 thank you, but it's running great now. I drove it 30 miles to the paint shop on the highway in the texas heat and she ran flawlessly. It did get hot because the radiator cap is old and doesnt seal. Anyone know of a place that still sells them? and My dipstick is loose and loses oil...any tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 19, 2010 Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 If the top of your radiator looks like the one pictured with the vent on top where I am pointing to you have a non pressurized radiator. If you fill the radiator to the top it will puke out water when it gets up to operating temperature. This is normal as the radiator seeks its own full level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobjob55 Posted July 19, 2010 Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 great looking town sedan ..... and i LOVE your broody knob.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westtexasrodder Posted July 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 the radiator cap is not sealing and leaking out about a gallon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 19, 2010 Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 the radiator cap is not sealing and leaking out about a gallon Does your radiator have a top vent as I pictured above? When the coolant in your radiator gets hot it expands. This expansion exceeds the capacity of your cooling system. Once this coolant expands and leaks out the cap (or the vent) do not replace the coolant that leaked as your radiator has now found its correct level. This level is normally about 1 to 1.5 inches below the fill cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westtexasrodder Posted July 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 yes it has the vent, but my car was hitting the red. I still think i need a new cap, this one doesn't seal. I will replace the thermostat and see where that gets me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flatie46 Posted July 20, 2010 Report Share Posted July 20, 2010 Is your speedo green, does it still change color. This was the Safety Sentinal feature, green to 30, yellow 30 to 50 red 50 + Perhaps you haven't driven at night to notice but thee is another post explaining how it works. Was this just a Dodge option? The dash lights didn't work in my Plymouth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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