rear diff parts

[ggdad1951]

the place working on my rear diff (1 ton) is having a hard time locationg parts...any vendor/location help guys? And sorry no details as of yet what is the issue, I *think* it might be the pins in the spider gear? Or is it possible to have those made for me?

[austinsailor]

I'm sure you could locate a good used unit. Probably much cheaper than paying someone to repair yours.

Get a good description of what you have and need and you can probably locate a good used center section pretty cheap. If it was a 1/2 or 3/4 ton, I'd have one for you cheap. There are enough that people have swapped out for higher gear ratio units that I would expect them to be plentiful.

[HanksB3B]

define "cheap". What ratio do you have that will fit my 1951 b3b.

Thanks,

Hank

Edited July 4, 2010 by HanksB3B

[Frank Ollian]

Vintage Power Wagon would be worth a try.

[austinsailor]

Hank, $50 would get you mine if you were close. I'm guessing that shipping would make it impractical.

I'd have to check on ratio's. But I have a 53 half ton and a 49 3/4 ton.

Edited July 4, 2010 by austinsailor

[HanksB3B]

Gene, Almost had one for that much but it didn't happen. I have the 4.10 which came stock on most 51 B3B 1/2 tons. Optionally I believe there was a 3.73 which some say would only give me a 10% gain on top end speed. My engine runs great, smooth as silk (at least for a flathed). It's busier at 50mph than I would like so I keep it to 40mph for the most part.

Not sure what a freight company woud charge..If it were a 3.73 it might be worth it to me. Have you ever hunted for the numbers on the differential? Might need a wire brush.

Hope you and yours have a great 4th,

Hank

[austinsailor]

Hank, I'll take a look when I get some time. I'm kind of swamped right now, but I need to find out anyway. I suspect they are both 4.11, both were from farm country.

[NiftyFifty]

the place working on my rear diff (1 ton) is having a hard time locationg parts...any vendor/location help guys? And sorry no details as of yet what is the issue, I *think* it might be the pins in the spider gear? Or is it possible to have those made for me?

If you get desperate and want to make a drive across the line I have 2 x 1 ton diffs here. I'm in Manitoba so depending on where in MN might not be too long a drive.

[Dodgeb4ya]

These 1 ton diff's are all by themselves. Came in 3.9/4.3 the most common ratio and 4.89. They are hard to find in good tight condition. The screw together barrel differential case cap pins come loose/or out and it's a real problem to fix easily. All are 16 spline axle shafts.The ring and pinion gears are rather small too and can break. Parts are near impossible to find too.

[MBF]

I bought a 3.9 out of a junkyard last year for $90. So I know that they're still out there. I kept the one that I replaced as a parts source in case the one that I bought doesn't pan out. Been ok for over a year now. If you're not going to be doing much heavy hauling you may increase your odds of finding one look for something a bit later (1950-68) from something out of a v-8 1 ton. It may give you a higher ratio, and there were a lot of fire departments that used the D300 as a brush or mini pumper. Good hunting! Mike

[ggdad1951]

From what the shop has told me it's pins in the carrier that are just pretty much gone. The toes on the gears are a bit worn so it will be a howler, that I can live with, but w/o the pins it'll be stealth and not go very fast. Think I'll have to have them made as these one tone are near impossible to find, any thought on alloy choice?

@4mula-dlx: I'm in the Twincities, 'toba might be a bit of a drive, but if you got parts that would work (obviously you'd have to check first) I'd entertain the shipping costs

Edited July 5, 2010 by ggdad1951

[NiftyFifty]

From what the shop has told me it's pins in the carrier that are just pretty much gone. The toes on the gears are a bit worn so it will be a howler, that I can live with, but w/o the pins it'll be stealth. Think I'll have to have them made as these one tone are near impossible to find, any thought on alloy choice?

@4mula-dlx: I'm in the Twincities, 'toba might be a bit of a drive, but if you got parts that would work (obviously you'd have to check first) I'd entertain the shipping costs

Sorry, not interested in parting out, want to sell the whole shebang so I'm not left with parts forever....too many other things laying around that I robbed something off.

[ggdad1951]

Sorry, not interested in parting out, want to sell the whole shebang so I'm not left with parts forever....too many other things laying around that I robbed something off.

I meant that if the rear diff is in good shape, I'd take the whole rear diff (which, while not cheap could be shipped), just not the axle housing (which would be the INSANE shipping cost). But I'd want to know the parts I need are good in that rear diff.

Edited July 5, 2010 by ggdad1951

[NiftyFifty]

I meant that if the rear diff is in good shape, I'd take the whole rear diff (which, while not cheap could be shipped), just not the axle housing (which would be the INSANE shipping cost). But I'd want to know the parts I need are good in that rear diff.

Ya I don't know exactly what ratio mine are? The one that's out has..

one spot where it had a 9 and a U and below that circled was 158 or (156)

then stamped in another spot was an 11 then below that 926241

no idea if those mean anything to anyone

[ggdad1951]

Ya I don't know exactly what ratio mine are? The one that's out has..

one spot where it had a 9 and a U and below that circled was 158 or (156)

then stamped in another spot was an 11 then below that 926241

no idea if those mean anything to anyone

I'll have to try and figure mine out as well, hard to do since I don't have it in hand right now! what I know is this: my truck is a 4 speed manual that won't go much faster then 50mph, so if that helps anyone figure this puppy out....

[ggdad1951]

"YoungEd" here PM'd me he saw maybe a 47-48ish rear axle, would that be the same by chance as the 51 1 ton? Anyone? Bueller? Bueller? Anyone?

[Merle Coggins]

If it's a 1 ton axle it should be the same.

[austinsailor]

48 probably has a Cleveland u joint, but you can probably change the flange.

[ggdad1951]

has anyone ever tried to contact Dodge directly about old prints/drawings or material specs? If so, any contact info?

[rustyzman]

Not sure if this problem has been laid to rest or not.

I am rebuilding my 54 1 ton rear end due to a severe lack of oil, many many years of sitting with no oil and just general rust issues on the gears.

Mine is a 4.10 and the ring and pinion will have to stay for a lack of replacement units.

The spider gears, shafts, pins, center block and shims I am replacing with the gear kit from Vintage Power Wagons. I got the parts today and just did a simple visual inspection, no detailed measurements, and this kit looks to be exactly the same as what is in my 1 ton. I will have to complete the reassembly to be sure, but it looks good so far. Perhaps this will translate to earlier models as well.

This kit is cheap and is sealed in standard Military fashion, so no rusty bits. (just lots of cosmoline)

When I get around to putting it all in, I will try and post whether or not all fit perfectly or not, but it sure looks like it will.

[ggdad1951]

Not sure if this problem has been laid to rest or not.

I am rebuilding my 54 1 ton rear end due to a severe lack of oil, many many years of sitting with no oil and just general rust issues on the gears.

Mine is a 4.10 and the ring and pinion will have to stay for a lack of replacement units.

The spider gears, shafts, pins, center block and shims I am replacing with the gear kit from Vintage Power Wagons. I got the parts today and just did a simple visual inspection, no detailed measurements, and this kit looks to be exactly the same as what is in my 1 ton. I will have to complete the reassembly to be sure, but it looks good so far. Perhaps this will translate to earlier models as well.

This kit is cheap and is sealed in standard Military fashion, so no rusty bits. (just lots of cosmoline)

When I get around to putting it all in, I will try and post whether or not all fit perfectly or not, but it sure looks like it will.

My issue at least got put to bed, $600 later at ZBAG, whom found parts from some guy in MI.

[ggdad1951]

ok, GUESS WHAT? NEW issue. Shocking I know! No luck on NAPA.

I've got 5 studs from the rear axle housing/differential that are pretty janked up at the end and the nut won't turn off (or on for that matter) and 1 from the rear cover. The studs all turned out of the rear housing. I chucked them all in a vertical mill w/ a 7/16" collet and no dice.

Anyone have any spares?

the 5 studs are 1.95" long and the solo cover one is 1.2"

[rustyzman]

Maybe this will help.

If I recall correctly, they are unequal length studs with a 7/16 coarse thread on the short end and a 7/16 fine on the long end. This is a coarse thread on both, but with a new nut will likely work fine. Search the same section for others of different lengths.

http://mcmaster.com

Part number 91563A177

If you have never used them before, they are a great company to deal with and have a truely outstanding website as far as I am concerned.

[ggdad1951]

Maybe this will help.

If I recall correctly, they are unequal length studs with a 7/16 coarse thread on the short end and a 7/16 fine on the long end. This is a coarse thread on both, but with a new nut will likely work fine. Search the same section for others of different lengths.

http://mcmaster.com

Part number 91563A177

If you have never used them before, they are a great company to deal with and have a truely outstanding website as far as I am concerned.

You are correct on the studs. I've used McMaster for work many times, high priced, but good product.

Anyone else got a few laying about?

[Young Ed]

You tried a good hardware store? The one I use is on the other side of town from you but they have a giant hardware section.