Add a Zerk fitting to your steering box

[HanksB3B]

Any suggestions??????

Never mind.

Hank

[JoelOkie]

Any suggestions??????

I remember that Boones Farm, or Annie Greensprings worked pretty good, and pretty quick;)

Edited July 3, 2010 by JoelOkie
spelling

[Frank Elder]

I remember that Boones Farm, or Annie Greensprings worked pretty good, and pretty quick;)

Boones Farm Stawberrie....

[Flatie46]

Any suggestions??????

You could always fill it with open gear compound, it's a sticky grease that doesn't sling off the gears and it wont leak out. It's messy but if you were to put it something like a steering box you'd probably never have touch it again. I'll check tuesday and see what brand we've been using at work, can't remeber the name good stuff though. We've had a case of it forever cause once you put it on or in something it pretty much stays.

[P-12 Tommy]

Boones Farm Stawberrie....

Rotgut. $1.05 a bottle back in '71:D

Tom

[ggdad1951]

dredging this up again, before I get too far in the rebuild, it's WAY easier to fill my steering box with lube with the fenders off. What 75-90 weight oil is best? I remember a thread a while back about not using certian types of oil that (supposedly) eat up old brass internals and such? What is the common wisdom on here? Don't think I'll be putting grease in (sorry hank), looking more towards the oil end of life.

[HanksB3B]

Mark,

After my rebuild, the box was so good and leak free, I ended up using Amsoil Severe Gear 75-90 Gear Lube. This is a perfect synthethic product for the steering box, the manual transmission and the differential. I entertained using John Deere Cornhead Grease and would have done so with any box that could not be brought into tolerance due to excessive wear.

And oh by the way if you visit my website you'll find that I'm an Amsoil Dealer. If you decide it's something you are interested in please either sign up to be my preferred customer for $10/6months or $20/year. This will enable you to buy products at dealer cost. Or just buy the product if you are interested.

http://www.southbaysynthetics.com/index.html

The reason I became a dealer was to buy at wholesale. I totally believe Amsoil is the best synthetic out there. I use it with outstanding results in all my other vehicles. The difference between off the shelf synthetics and Amsoil is very noticeable. My only grievance is that my B3B trans and rear end leaks so I'm just using marginal Sta-Lube 90 weight in them. This spring I'm hoping to be leak-free and use Amsoil.

You are doing a great job on your truck.

Hank

[John-T-53]

GL-4 is supposedly the brass-friendly grade of gear oil.

dredging this up again, before I get too far in the rebuild, it's WAY easier to fill my steering box with lube with the fenders off. What 75-90 weight oil is best? I remember a thread a while back about not using certian types of oil that (supposedly) eat up old brass internals and such? What is the common wisdom on here? Don't think I'll be putting grease in (sorry hank), looking more towards the oil end of life.

[HanksB3B]

There is no brass in the steering box.

Hank

[ggdad1951]

so the NAPA non-hypoid gear oil 75-90W will work just fine?

[John-T-53]

so the NAPA non-hypoid gear oil 75-90W will work just fine?

For a steering box. GL-4 for your tranny tho - that's where the brass is!

Not sure about differences in hypoid/non-hypoid gear oil tho...

[HanksB3B]

Mark or anyone interested.

Amsoil has a huge amount (more than you want to know) of information on both their website:

http://www.amsoil.com/a/synthetic-gear-oil?zo=1863033

All the products shown have a link to "Click here for more detailed information"

You can also contact their corporate office in Superior Wisconsin (Merle territory) and asking for technical help:

Corporate 715-392-7101

Hank

Dealer #ZO1863033

[deathbound]

There is no brass in the steering box.

Hank

Aren't the bushings for the sector shaft brass....maybe bronze? I believe the GL-4 is for the older vehicles & GL-5 for more modern, sharper gears. I recently rebuilt by steering box & made new gaskets, corrected the end play, sealed it up & filled with 8 oz of 90 wt oil(per specs in the manual)......so far no leaks. Haven't test drove it yet-still finishing other work. I think the oil is a better choice because it should reach the bushings more thoroughly. Just my .02.

[HanksB3B]

that there could be a sintered bronze bushing where the steering shaft enters the steering box (it's been so long). There is a GL-4 product that Amsoil makes.

http://www.amsoil.com/a/synthetic-transmission-fluid?zo=1863033

Hank

[ggdad1951]

that there could be a sintered bronze bushing where the steering shaft enters the steering box (it's been so long). There is a GL-4 product that Amsoil makes.

http://www.amsoil.com/a/synthetic-transmission-fluid?zo=1863033

Hank

so you're saying we should use Amsoil?

If I ordered from you, could they drop ship to my house? PM me with the costs to get enough oil that would fit out my truck for the tanny, rear diff, and steering box with the synthetic. Right now I have a GL4 hypoiod gear oil in the tranny and rear diff from NAPA. I'd have no problem changing that out if it is eating my parts while the truck is stitting waiting for it's spring fling on the roads. I've spent way to much to have the "wrong" fluid in there that will cost me down the road.

[Dave72dt]

You're fine with the GL -4 you have in it. The difference in the 4 and 5 is the amount of sulfur/phosphorus in the oil, less in the 4 than the 5. It doesn't eat the yellow metal, it's worn away because the yellow metal is softer than sulfer/phosphorus protective layer the additive provides. Wears the insides of the synchroes down so they no longer provide the gear matching.