rear spring removal

[ggdad1951]

ok, are you guys sick of me yet?

I've got the "keeper" bolts out but the "bolt" that actually holds the spring/bushing in won't budge, before I use a BFH to hammer on them, any thoughts/tricks? The lower one on the rear shackle is the only one I can get to the back of the bolt...

[HanksB3B]

has been the discovered general consensus as the stuff to soak stuck stuff with prior to doing damage with a BFH along with some patience.

Hank

P.S. with 20 posts you're in the "You just got here category". So probably no one is sick of you yet!

Edited June 23, 2010 by HanksB3B

[Bob_Koch]

Some of the bolts a reverse threaded.

[ggdad1951]

I've been soaking them with my good shmutz, so I guess I keep waiting. According to the parts manual they don't look to be threaded in? They look to be a slip in with a keeper bolt that lives in a keyway? Or DO they thread out?

[48Dodger]

Maybe this will help.

http://www.youtube.com/user/194853DodgeTrucks

48D

[Bob_Koch]

Wow Tim, nice on the video!

[ggdad1951]

ok, but what if mine look like this?

front of rear spring

rear of rear spring

are these puppeies threaded in somehow? Notice the cross locking bolt ala the king pin from the front axle/spindle....

[48Dodger]

This should be of more help. It should be the same as the half ton on the forward mount of the rear leaf spring.

48D

http://www.youtube.com/user/194853DodgeTrucks#p/u/6/u6JPdKCfCjU

[4852dodge]

To remove the spring pins you need to remove the locking bolt and pull the pin out. The pin is smooth, no threading. I used two methods to remove them from my truck, remove the grease fitting and screw in a piece of pipe, 1/4 in I believe, and make yourself a small slide hammer out of it. The other was to drill a 1/4 in hole in the frame on the backside of the stuck pin and insert a drift and drive it out. The pin usually sticks in the spring and needs persuation. Unless the pin is damaged they are reusable.

[ggdad1951]

ok, thanks everyone! I have NO desire to have to find replacement pats so your help is MUCH appreciated! I have the locking bolts out but those pins are IN there good! I'll keep soaking them w/ smutz and I like the suggestion of the slide hammer!

WHEN I get thme out, I'll have to post a picture of them and my method!

[ggdad1951]

ok, got up WAY too early this AM and headed into the garage prior to work (hope the neighbors didn't mind too much at 5AM) and got the rear springs off. In taking off the springs I had to do this:

front of the rear spring: pin/bolt slipped right out with use of the locking bolt threaded into the zerk hole! SWEET! thanks for the tip on the video!

top of the rear spring rear shackle: NOT coming out w/o some "help". Found a hole already drilled in the frame that lined up w/ the pin/bolt and used a drift to pound out w/ a 12oz. claw hammer, pretty sweet....

bottom of the rear spring shackle: Had to use a 3/8 extender as a drift and a 2 pound sledge to POUND the fraking things out! But I guess more rust fell off the frame that way (and the nieghbors had an nice alarm clock)!

Now on to the SERIOUS question: the lower pin/bolt on the rear shackles are WORN! And worn badly! Any sources for those out there any where?

Thanks!

[kenaroo2002]

try rareparts.com, they should have everything you need. have your wallet open wide

[Dave72dt]

Hi there, welcome to the forum. You're a little behind on his postings. He's apart, new pieces installed, and drivable for some time now.

Tell us a little about yourself and what you're up to.

[ggdad1951]

Hi there, welcome to the forum. You're a little behind on his postings. He's apart, new pieces installed, and drivable for some time now.

Tell us a little about yourself and what you're up to.

WOW!, I had totally forgotten about this! Welcome, and thanks for the trip down memory lane!

What are you working on?

[Barry Maxwell]

I removed the left rear spring of my '51 B3C by removing the lock bolt and pin from the front eye and the lower shackle bushing on the rear. Then I backed the shackle out. As the attachment shows, there appears to be a bushing that I assume can be accessed from inside the frame under the cross member. The problem is that the cavity is filled with 61 years of grease and crud and difficult to get to. When I get the frame on a rotisserie and rotated 90 degrees, it will be easier. My question, however, is:

Do I really NEED to get that bushing out?

I should note that in post #11 ggdad1951 notes that he drove it out from the inside with a hammer and drift pin. Seems to me that will destroy the bushing. Then again, maybe his truck is different than mine.

[TodFitch]

I removed the left rear spring of my '51 B3C by removing the lock bolt and pin from the front eye and the lower shackle bushing on the rear. Then I backed the shackle out. As the attachment shows, there appears to be a bushing that I assume can be accessed from inside the frame under the cross member. The problem is that the cavity is filled with 61 years of grease and crud and difficult to get to. When I get the frame on a rotisserie and rotated 90 degrees, it will be easier. My question, however, is:

Do I really NEED to get that bushing out?

I should note that in post #11 ggdad1951 notes that he drove it out from the inside with a hammer and drift pin. Seems to me that will destroy the bushing. Then again, maybe his truck is different than mine.

The U-bolt part threads into the bushing and the side to side play is taken up by the threads. So yes, if the bushing is that worn you should replace it. Or to look at it another way, if you could pull a bolt out of a nut would you ask if you needed to replace the nut?

[Barry Maxwell]

The U-bolt part threads into the bushing and the side to side play is taken up by the threads. So yes, if the bushing is that worn you should replace it. Or to look at it another way, if you could pull a bolt out of a nut would you ask if you needed to replace the nut?

Now I am really confused. The bushing itself is tightly held in the spring holder bracket (or whatever that is called). As shown in the photo, the shackle is threaded part way into the bushing and all the threads are good. What I'm wondering is whether I need to remove the bushing from the spring holder bracket or can I leave it in and thread the shackle in from the ourside when I put the spring back on (whenever that may be). I hope all this is clear, but maybe not.

[HanksB3B]

Barry,

You have watched Tim's YouTube video (linked in post #8 of theis thread) right?

Hank

[Barry Maxwell]

Barry,

You have watched Tim's YouTube video (linked in post #8 of theis thread) right?

Hank

Hank:

Yes, I saw that video and the front pins on both rear springs came out exactly as the video shows. Very helpful. My problem is with the rear shackle of both springs.

[48Dodger]

Hank:

Yes, I saw that video and the front pins on both rear springs came out exactly as the video shows. Very helpful. My problem is with the rear shackle of both springs.

There are two videos:

part 1

part 2

48D

[Barry Maxwell]

48 dodger:

Thank you! I had NOT seen part 1 of the video. Now it all makes sense to me. I WILL remove the bushing. I will wait, however, until I get the frame on my rotisserie and rotate it 90 degrees. It will be easier to get all the crud out before getting a socket in there. Thanks again - to several of you.

Barry

[kenaroo2002]

story of my life, always late. having same problem removing spring bolt on rear springs. great advice available here. I have a 49 B1C. have been soaking with pb blaster, may try some heat also. replacing main leaves both sides, and 9inch ford rear.