randygall Posted May 23, 2010 Report Posted May 23, 2010 I have a B2d126 with a stock drivetrain with a 4 speed trans. I am looking to tow a camper with it. I am guessing that the trailer will weigh about 1500-2000 lbs. What problems will I need to watch for, or what improvements can I do to make this happen without problems? As it stands right now, top speed on the empty truck is only 60-65 mph. Quote
41/53dodges Posted May 23, 2010 Report Posted May 23, 2010 the rig will probably jerk when you are first taking off, and towing with a manual tends to take out the clutch faster. Quote
JBNeal Posted May 24, 2010 Report Posted May 24, 2010 The truck should pull it as long as you aren't in a hurry. Start out in 1st (LOW) to optimize the torque of the 230. If possible, have at least surge brakes on the trailer to help out when slowing. Trailer signalling might be tricky if you've still got the original 6V system, I reckon you could rig up a 6V relay to a 12V battery to run trailer lights. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted May 24, 2010 Report Posted May 24, 2010 (edited) I would try to avoid most all all long steep grades. It will be hard on that little flathead! People behind you might not have much patience. Edited August 20, 2010 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
49powerwagon Posted May 24, 2010 Report Posted May 24, 2010 That truck should do just fine. You have 120 +/- ft/lbs of torque and 4 gears to tow under 10,000lbs, the trucks I work on everyday have 1200 or so ft/lbs and 10 to 18 gears to tow 110,000 or more. Pretty even, when you look at torque per pound. Long grades will not be a problem, but you will not be topping the hill in top gear. Think like you are driving a real truck, not a pickup. You might have to top some steep hills in 2nd or even 1st gear, no biggie, look how slow a lowboy truck will pull the same hill loaded to 200,000lbs! And don`t rely on the brakes, come off the hills in a low gear to keep your speed down (being from Alaska, when I think hills, I think hills) so you don`t burn out your brakes. Take it slow and easy and that truck will do great. Get in a great big hurry, you might be getting cursed around here for taking a nice truck out with you when you go. Quote
41/53dodges Posted August 20, 2010 Report Posted August 20, 2010 okay, so what would be recommended for my 1/2 tonner if i want one of those little "canned ham" trailers? Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted August 20, 2010 Report Posted August 20, 2010 okay, so what would be recommended for my 1/2 tonner if i want one of those little "canned ham" trailers? With a good strong running flathead you should be able to tow a small (small) "canned ham" trailer with few problems. Just be easy on the truck-shift down and don't over rev on steeper grades! Bob Quote
greg g Posted August 20, 2010 Report Posted August 20, 2010 Couple years ago we pulled a 18 ft 2100 lbs trailer for 3500 miles with a Jeep Cherokee. The jeep is 4.0 L and the 230 is 3.7 so they are pretty close. The jeep has 3.55 rear end and a lock up auto trans. The jeep pulled the trailer fine but with 2 concerns. fuel mileage went down to 10 while towing, and top speed was limited to about 65. This I believe was due more to increased air drag rather than the weight. (I have previously towed a honda race car on a trailer which was about the same weight as the camper with no problems and not a significant drop in mileage) My set up is about 2100 lbls of trailer and about 300 to 400 lbs of stuff in the trailer. Always travel with water and waste tanks empty. The trailer extends about 12 inches on the sides and 18 inches above the jeep added to the air drag. This when driving into the wind in OK and NEB presented more of a problem than the grades we encoutered on the interstates. As long as you watch the weight on the tongue, no more than 250 lbs, keep the tires inflated, and drive within the limits of the rigs, you should be fine. New shocks and bushings in the rear spring mounts will go a long way toward proper towing also. I would look for a trailer that weighs less than 2000 lbs. Lotsa stuff out there new and vintage. Good luck and have fun. Quote
Dave72dt Posted August 20, 2010 Report Posted August 20, 2010 My concerns rest with the hitch itself. I've seen some welded directly to the bumper with no other support at all and you end up with a bumper and brackets that are twisted or torn and definitely unsafe for towing. Brakes and brake lines need to be in top condition. You'll be appying more pressure to the system as you stop the increased weight and that's when they give out. Quote
41/53dodges Posted August 20, 2010 Report Posted August 20, 2010 yeah, when i get a trailer, it will be about a 15' job with maybe a sink but no bathroom. i will make sure the trailer has brakes on it as to not ruin mine as badly. im running stock fronts and 94' jeep cherokee 3.55 rear end with drums. does anybody have any ideas for a better hitch that i can still have my bumper on the truck thats actually safe? the wiring should be no problem, i have 12 volt and an electrical engineer for a father. after this weekend i should have pics of the trailer im lookin at. Quote
Dave72dt Posted August 21, 2010 Report Posted August 21, 2010 yeah, when i get a trailer, it will be about a 15' job with maybe a sink but no bathroom. i will make sure the trailer has brakes on it as to not ruin mine as badly. im running stock fronts and 94' jeep cherokee 3.55 rear end with drums. does anybody have any ideas for a better hitch that i can still have my bumper on the truck thats actually safe? the wiring should be no problem, i have 12 volt and an electrical engineer for a father.after this weekend i should have pics of the trailer im lookin at. I'd look at building a receiver style that bolts to the frame itself with the receiver just below the stock bumper. Quote
41/53dodges Posted March 7, 2011 Report Posted March 7, 2011 I'd look at building a receiver style that bolts to the frame itself with the receiver just below the stock bumper. how about a highly reinforced bumper with the reciever welded on it? Quote
Dave72dt Posted March 7, 2011 Report Posted March 7, 2011 It's not just the bumper. The bumper mounting brackets would need reinforcement also. They're just strap metal. By the time you get everything strong enough to be functional, it'll look like crap. A purpose built reciever hitch will look like it belongs there and be safe to use. Quote
41/53dodges Posted March 7, 2011 Report Posted March 7, 2011 i cannot quite see how that would go, are you talking the square type reciever? Quote
austinsailor Posted March 7, 2011 Report Posted March 7, 2011 I have a receiver hitch on my 40 Dodge car. A shop in Austin, Tx built it for about $300. It attaches to the frame and is invisible when the ball mount is not in it. When it is, it looks like it should be there. I built one on a Ford Escort wagon back in the 80's. It was also attached to the frame and worked quite well. Both are quite strong and I'm sure the frame would distort before the hitches failed. It's not that hard to build. Just have your framework lay against the frame, then put a plate on the other side and strong bolts through the hitch, frame and plate. Make it attach two places on each side about 3' feet apart and it'll work fine. You can hide most of the works up high where it can't be seen. Quote
MarkAubuchon Posted March 8, 2011 Report Posted March 8, 2011 I had one built for my 47 Plymouth. Started with a hitch off of my old 94 astro van, cut it donw, added some angles and bolted it to the frame, looks good, strong and out of the way.. I went to a welding shop that does a little custom work,, Cost about $300. Quote
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