55 Fargo Posted April 28, 2010 Report Posted April 28, 2010 (edited) Hi all, want to buy something, to install on the foor of my car, no headliner yet, maybe in fall. I have this peel and stick roof membrane, Ice dam shield, it is butyl rubber mebrane 36 inches wide, with a non skid surface on the up side. Is this stuff gonna work, or am I asking for trouble, was going to laminate the flexi-foil, duct insulation onto it before the headliner. Or should I consider fatmat or lobucrods stuff. Anyway, what might be the best route for the roof, the floors are easier, as weight is not an issue, nor will heat, make it rise..........Fred Edited April 28, 2010 by Rockwood Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 28, 2010 Report Posted April 28, 2010 got a link to your proposed product? Quote
aero3113 Posted April 28, 2010 Report Posted April 28, 2010 Fred, Make sure you prep the metal also whatever you install make sure you use a good adhesive. Not sure if the peel and stick will last(unless you think it's strong enough). You do not want it to start to fall after you install a headliner. 3M makes some great spray adhesives that will last. Quote
55 Fargo Posted April 28, 2010 Author Report Posted April 28, 2010 (edited) got a link to your proposed product? http://www.graceathome.com/pages/roofingprod.htm Hi Tim, here is a link to the roofing ice shield, this is the same as the stuff I have at home, will post a pic of it in a little while. The flexi-foiol, is just the bubble wrap insulation, only an R4 value. The lobucrod, product, ez cool, aluminum sided, polystyrene high density foam. There website is www.lobucrod.com Edited April 28, 2010 by Rockwood Quote
55 Fargo Posted April 28, 2010 Author Report Posted April 28, 2010 Fred,Make sure you prep the metal also whatever you install make sure you use a good adhesive. Not sure if the peel and stick will last(unless you think it's strong enough). You do not want it to start to fall after you install a headliner. 3M makes some great spray adhesives that will last. Yes, I have used 3 M Super 77 on it to do a test piece, holds no problem......... Quote
randroid Posted April 28, 2010 Report Posted April 28, 2010 Fred, There was a good-sized thread on all those products for the same application a year or so ago but I'm too lazy to look it up at the moment because our move is almost over and I'm dead. -Randy Quote
55 Fargo Posted April 28, 2010 Author Report Posted April 28, 2010 Fred,There was a good-sized thread on all those products for the same application a year or so ago but I'm too lazy to look it up at the moment because our move is almost over and I'm dead. -Randy Hi Randy, I have read most of the threads, unless I missed that 1. I am wondering if these bootleg concoctions, are as good as the stuff that is sold by automotive suppliers like fatmat,hushmat,dynamat,ez cool etc. The roofing membrane is a rubberized product, it would sound deaden, and the flexi-foil bubble insulation would insulate and sound deaden too. The ez cool product does both, and is not expensive at all, plus has an r 8 value when applied to the roof. Either way,it will be a lot better that what Mopar put up there 60 years ago........Fred Quote
PatS.... Posted April 28, 2010 Report Posted April 28, 2010 (edited) I would be hesitant to use it on the roof once the headliner is in. The roof can get VERY hot and that material can dry up like a potato chip and fall off. If it falls off under the headliner, you have a problem. I'm not sure the glue on any of the sound deadeners will hold up under the heat. I plan on having my roof Rhino Lined. I know that stuff will never fall off. There is also Lizard Skin, which is a spray on insulator/sound deadener Also, there is the issue of odor from the heated up roofing material. The asphalt odor may be overpowering. I know I used PeelNSeal on the doors of my old Dodge Ram and it smelled for about 3 weeks. An in depth test of some sound deadeners http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ Edited April 28, 2010 by PatS.... Quote
hkestes41 Posted April 28, 2010 Report Posted April 28, 2010 Rock, I used the home made lizard skin on my floors and inside the doors and behind the side panels in the back, then covered it with the peel and seal from Home Depot. Only one piece of the pee and seal came off even in the Texas summer. I don't think I would put it on my roof though. Setting out in the direct sun the roof will get pretty hot and I would be concerned with it coming loose. I have had absolutely no issue with smell from the peel and seal. Several guys on the HAMB have said they used lobuc's product and have been very happy with it. When it comes time to do my headliner I think I will paint the roof with the home made lizard skin and then add lobuc's insulaiton before the new headliner goes in. Just my $0.02 worth. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 28, 2010 Report Posted April 28, 2010 IF you have the foil thermal sheet in one big piece the unit will go roof edge to roof edge..and once that is in place, the metal headliner supports will hold the insulation from falling..on the disasembly of all my cars in the past..the orginal glass/draft insualtion was only held in place by the rods..I am not fond of 3M 77 spay can adhesive for this particualr applicatiion but the original extremely flamable contact cenent properly applied to both substraits and cured properly before app...ought to do the trick all day long.. Quote
55 Fargo Posted April 28, 2010 Author Report Posted April 28, 2010 Thanx for the replies, on my roof, after painting it, I have applied a few coats of rubberized undercoating, that was a few years ago. I think I will go with the EZ cool, 40 square feet of it only weighs 2 pounds, that should be pleny adequate for my Canadian summer. My car since I have the door panels, carepts, insulation, carept underpad, is quite quiet. It will only get better nce the roof is done. The butyl roof membrane is a rubber compound, and does not smell like much, it certainly is not like asphalt shingles,nor does it smell like such........Fred Quote
greg g Posted April 28, 2010 Report Posted April 28, 2010 In my Studebaker, I used some insulation material that was left over from our house residing project. Its the stuff that is about 1/2 inch thick, green foam with an aluminum foil bonded to one side. It is retained by a couple places where there was a gap beterrn the widshield frame and the roof, and a reinforcing piece and the roof in the rear. The center is carried and formed to shape by the headliner bows. It has enough flex to coform to the curve of the bows and main part of the roof. It is not flexible enough to make sharper curves like where the roof meets the doors. Here I use the insulation stuff the bottom of whick is retained by a gap and the top is tucked under the foam board. then the whole mess is covered by the headliner. Not pretty but it underwear. Quote
bobjob55 Posted April 28, 2010 Report Posted April 28, 2010 ANY ideas on what would work in Arizona's hot -over 110 -117 for around 3 months --- weather ??? and not fail .. NO snow here .. it gets stifling hot inside any car here .. Quote
Robert Horne Posted April 28, 2010 Report Posted April 28, 2010 ANY ideas on what would work in Arizona's hot -over 110 -117 for around 3 months --- weather ??? and not fail .. NO snow here .. it gets stifling hot inside any car here .. I was concerned of the heat factor also. I used the headliner insulation from a couple of cars that I junked, Fords. I used windshield urethane sealant as the adhesive. 2 years now, and still is ok... Quote
bobjob55 Posted April 29, 2010 Report Posted April 29, 2010 (edited) I was concerned of the heat factor also. I used the headliner insulation from a couple of cars that I junked, Fords. I used windshield urethane sealant as the adhesive. 2 years now, and still is ok... i'm just a little concerned,, Arizona get hotter than anywhere in the USA .. except maybe death valley .. i'm sure that it gets hot everywhere ,, but i came out of California and only drove thru death Vally ... after moving to Arizona ,, noticed that rubber rots quite quickly ,, have to replace wiper blades 2 times a year .. don't know what spray adhesive won't fail under these conditions .. Edited April 29, 2010 by bobjob55 Quote
PatS.... Posted April 29, 2010 Report Posted April 29, 2010 Maybe check some wreckers and have a look at the inside roofs of a few and see what's holding on and what isn't. Maybe using house roof technology and having an airflow just under the roof and the insulation applied to that but I can't think of how that would be done properly on a car. That was why I thought of the spray on boxliner for the roof underside. Properly prepped, that stuff ain't goin' nowhere. Quote
55 Fargo Posted April 29, 2010 Author Report Posted April 29, 2010 With the bows, and if the material is of lightweight. It possibly may stay up there, in most climates. But with the Arizona,Texas, Southern Cal heat, all bets are off. The box liner will kill the tinny sound, and will no doubt bea sound deadener, but how much insulation effect will it have. How about this, spray on boxliner, Lizard Skin, or something like this. Then attach a very light weight thin product like ez cool, right to the top side of the headliner, install as per usual. That way the insulation, sits on headliner and is supported with bows, and the fabric, it will also, give a gap to act as a bit better for insulating. Thsi might be an answer, to anything that will fall down from the inner roff, because of extreme heat...............Fred Quote
TodFitch Posted April 29, 2010 Report Posted April 29, 2010 i'm just a little concerned,, Arizona get hotter than anywhere in the USA .. except maybe death valley .. i'm sure that it gets hot everywhere ,, but i came out of California and only drove thru death Vally ... after moving to Arizona ,, noticed that rubber rots quite quickly ,, have to replace wiper blades 2 times a year .. don't know what spray adhesive won't fail under these conditions .. Heck. You live in Florence. If you want hot move to Buckeye, Gila Bend or maybe Yuma. (I'm just a wimp that was born and raised in Tucson.) Quote
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