jakenoklahoma Posted April 25, 2010 Report Posted April 25, 2010 Removing radiator today, I noticed a relief cut by heat wrench on the hood support, as if they made room for the radiator. Looking at the engine, I sort of wonder if this is the engine that came with the truck. When I look down at the crossmember, it seems like the engine mount hole has been redrilled forward of the spot. ALSO: please look at the photo of the engine. I see a diamond with a "IH" in it towards the back of the head. It also appears to have been a blue green color. This may be my ignorance for I certainly know little or nothing about a Pilothouse, save what I have found here, but something seems amiss. Any ideas? Quote
Reg Evans Posted April 25, 2010 Report Posted April 25, 2010 Does the head measure 23" or 25" ? Is there an engine number on the block above the driver side freeze plug up front ? It's probably the bigger 25" engine. Quote
greg g Posted April 25, 2010 Report Posted April 25, 2010 Well it looks like a mopar engine, the pipe plug above #6 cylider and the heater outlet, but to be sure find and post the engine number. Its on a flat casting boss on the driver's side of the engine above the generator just below the head. Should start with a T for truck, but don;t be suprised if you find a D for Dodge or P for Plymouth or even a C for Chrysler, S for Desoto. Routing maintanece for thse was sometimes a quicky engine swap from a junkyard doner. The little logo could be casting gacility id mark. Jasper rebuilds uses a blueish green color, but so did International harvester, and their engines were called Green Diamond engines, and did not look all that different from ay of the L heads of the time. Does look like somebody did some hot wrench chewing maybe for a larger radiator. Take a look fo an engine number. If the flat spot is there with no number look for a metal tag riveted to the block between the genny and the dizzy, most of the rebuilders stapled a tag there rather than puch in a number. Quote
jakenoklahoma Posted April 25, 2010 Author Report Posted April 25, 2010 The engine measures 25" The number looks like it begins with a "T", then 172-44827. it is hooked up to what looks like the original fluid drive bellhousing and has a four speed shifter behind it.... Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 26, 2010 Report Posted April 26, 2010 that is the second one of those heads I have seen in the past week... Quote
jakenoklahoma Posted April 26, 2010 Author Report Posted April 26, 2010 that is the second one of those heads I have seen in the past week... any idea what the markings mean? Is it an aftermarket head? I assumed (most likely incorrectly) that L6 heads had the "creation date" cast into them... Quote
greg g Posted April 26, 2010 Report Posted April 26, 2010 There has been a discussion on the car side regarding heads, casting dates, oand other casting marks. It seems there is no rhyme or reason as to what they have ar do not have as markings. It would seem that they came from several sources, and were mated up with what tever block came down the line at the engine assembly facility. I don't think I have ever seen two that look exactly alike in all my years of observing mopars. Quote
jakenoklahoma Posted April 26, 2010 Author Report Posted April 26, 2010 There has been a discussion on the car side regarding heads, casting dates, oand other casting marks. It seems there is no rhyme or reason as to what they have ar do not have as markings. It would seem that they came from several sources, and were mated up with what tever block came down the line at the engine assembly facility. I don't think I have ever seen two that look exactly alike in all my years of observing mopars. ahh, that makes sense. I thought I had cracked the code of reading the "standard" head casting encryption, with the little clock and year number. It just goes to show... That being said, where can I find info on this 25" engine? is it pretty much like a 23" except bigger? Quote
Reg Evans Posted April 26, 2010 Report Posted April 26, 2010 The engine measures 25" The number looks like it begins with a "T", then 172-44827. it is hooked up to what looks like the original fluid drive bellhousing and has a four speed shifter behind it.... Oh Boy:confused:.....now you've thrown me for a loop cause a T-172 engine is suppose to be a 218 23" engine for a 1950 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck. Not a 25" long engine. This is according to my Dodge Truck pin point parts specifier for 1941-1952 and also according to this engine list. http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/tengines.html Are you sure it measures 25" and is a T172 ? Quote
jakenoklahoma Posted April 26, 2010 Author Report Posted April 26, 2010 Oh Boy:confused:.....now you've thrown me for a loop cause a T-172 engine is suppose to be a 218 23" engine for a 1950 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck. Not a 25" long engine. This is according to my Dodge Truck pin point parts specifier for 1941-1952 and also according to this engine list.http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/tengines.html Are you sure it measures 25" and is a T172 ? hmm. I measured the head from tip to tip and it came out at 25". Should I measure somewhere else? Plus it appears that the crossmember has been relieved for crank pulley clearance and the engine mounting plate does not line up with the existing holes in the crossmemeber. I guess somene could have stamped the number on there, but there is no evidence of overstamping or grinding down the number boss. Quote
Reg Evans Posted April 26, 2010 Report Posted April 26, 2010 It sounds like you measured the head correctly. Sorry but I'm stumped at this point. Stranger things have happened. Quote
jakenoklahoma Posted April 26, 2010 Author Report Posted April 26, 2010 I'll check the number again when I get home, Canadian? anything is possible, eh? I have found evidence that the truck was licensed in New Mexico and in Texas (that one in 1958), anything is possible in 60 years or so. This is also the truck with the weird hairpin type overload springs.... Quote
greg g Posted April 26, 2010 Report Posted April 26, 2010 Are you sure it's a "T" and not a "I"??? clean it off with a wire brush and post a pic if you can. Quote
jakenoklahoma Posted April 26, 2010 Author Report Posted April 26, 2010 Are you sure it's a "T" and not a "I"??? clean it off with a wire brush and post a pic if you can. I'll check, it might be an I, if it is, then what is it? Quote
Reg Evans Posted April 26, 2010 Report Posted April 26, 2010 Never heard of one starting with an "I" but I have seen the industrial engine #'s start with an IND. Hopefully I'll learn something new today. Quote
jakenoklahoma Posted April 26, 2010 Author Report Posted April 26, 2010 Never heard of one starting with an "I" but I have seen the industrial engine #'s start with an IND. Hopefully I'll learn something new today. well, it is still 25", thought I'd remeasure to ensure no mistakes. The beginning letter could be an "I", as it has the base on it, although not as pronounced as the top. I looked at the registry website and noticed industrial engines, like you said, begin with an "IND" This would be "I 172" So, the mystery continues...... Quote
jakenoklahoma Posted April 26, 2010 Author Report Posted April 26, 2010 when I look at this page http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/indengines.php , the style of the "T" described, with the little tails on the top and a straight base are more in line with what I see when I look at the numbers. Maybe somebody just stamped a 25" block with the motor numbers that the engine they replaced had...? Quote
Reg Evans Posted April 26, 2010 Report Posted April 26, 2010 Can you take a close up of it and post it here ? Quote
jakenoklahoma Posted April 26, 2010 Author Report Posted April 26, 2010 Can you take a close up of it and post it here ? here yah go...it is not very straight, but i dont know if that is normal or not Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 27, 2010 Report Posted April 27, 2010 Possibly a Caniadian engine? this same marking is on the head I got from you and your Plymouth 218 engine.. Quote
jakenoklahoma Posted April 30, 2010 Author Report Posted April 30, 2010 Still a mystery, I guess. If I find that it is rebuildable, are the parts for the 25" available? what are the possibilities for the displacement? Quote
HotRodTractor Posted April 30, 2010 Report Posted April 30, 2010 Still a mystery, I guess. If I find that it is rebuildable, are the parts for the 25" available? what are the possibilities for the displacement? One of the cylinders should have a plug in the head right over the bore. Remove the plug and stick a long piece of stiff wire down the hole - turn the motor until the wire stops going down, mark the wire, turn the motor until the wire stops coming out of the hole, mark the wire, remove the wire and measure the distance between the marks. That is the stroke of the motor you have. If its a long block it should have the "standard" long block bore (escapes me at the moment - but its on here if you search). Using the standard bore and the stroke that you determined you will know the displacement. Unless its a real oddball motor..... Quote
jakenoklahoma Posted April 30, 2010 Author Report Posted April 30, 2010 One of the cylinders should have a plug in the head right over the bore. Remove the plug and stick a long piece of stiff wire down the hole - turn the motor until the wire stops going down, mark the wire, turn the motor until the wire stops coming out of the hole, mark the wire, remove the wire and measure the distance between the marks. That is the stroke of the motor you have. If its a long block it should have the "standard" long block bore (escapes me at the moment - but its on here if you search). Using the standard bore and the stroke that you determined you will know the displacement. Unless its a real oddball motor..... cool, I think I read that thread, problem is she seems to be stuck right now... there is a hand crank boss on the lower pulley, where assumingly I could turn this baby by hand through the hand crank hole on the grille apron. hmm...two questions: 1. anybody ever do this? results? I did it with a land rover i owned once, got it started, wasnt fun.. 2. I assume this was normal for '50, since my truck has such an access hole. but is the fitting on the engine something that was on many years? when did it stop being installed. 3. Okay, I know I said two questions, but i am on a roll: how does one remove the crank fitting in order to get to a nut on the crank so I can try to turn this big boy? 4. Anybody know where I can get a hand crank? once I get her running, it might be fun to have around at parties and cookouts, you know; "lets see who can hand start Jake's old truck!" Quote
Merle Coggins Posted April 30, 2010 Report Posted April 30, 2010 The hand crank lugs should be part of the crank bolt. You should be able to slip a socket on there and crank it over with a long ratchet or breaker bar. Merle Quote
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