aero3113 Posted March 21, 2010 Report Posted March 21, 2010 (edited) I received my steering box to frame Insulators from Bernbaum. I was very pleased, I got them in one day and the quality seems good. Does anyone know the correct orientation of the pads? I am not sure but I think my original pads are on wrong? Should the thicker pad be on the inside against the steering box? My original ones have the thicker one on the outside is this correct? I attached some pics. New pads Is this outer pad installed correctly? ??? Inside original pad? Edited March 21, 2010 by aero3113 Quote
Niel Hoback Posted March 21, 2010 Report Posted March 21, 2010 It doesn't look like it would make any difference which way you put them in. The pads determine how far the box and plate are from the frame and the thinner part appears to be used only as a connector to hold the three pads in the correct position. Quote
aero3113 Posted March 21, 2010 Author Report Posted March 21, 2010 The three pads are molded on. I would think the pad with them molded on pads (thicker one)would be on the inside to insulate the frame and steering box and the thinner pad would be on the outside??? Quote
aero3113 Posted March 21, 2010 Author Report Posted March 21, 2010 (edited) My manual only shows the steering arm without the pads. Anyone have one that shows the pads installed? Edited March 21, 2010 by aero3113 Quote
Andydodge Posted March 21, 2010 Report Posted March 21, 2010 Bob(?).........I just went and had a look at a spare steering box I have with the old pad attached, even tho its RHD this setup is mirror reverse of what the USA /LHD setup is and whats on your car is correct, the pics are right, the pad with the 3 thick pads goes on the outside , between the chassis and the plate, the thinner pad goes on the inside against the steering box and between it and the inside of the chassis.....when you undo the bolts you'll find you will have to lever the steering box/column away from the chassis a little to make sure that the inner pad lines up with the outer and also has the thin metal sleeves attached, it maybe a good idea to clean up these metal sleeves then superglue them to the new rubber sleeve before installing them to assist in keeping them from being pushed off.......same goes with the metal sleeves on the outside pad.........don't worry if this doesn't seem to make sense.......once you see all the pieces you'll understand whats what.........the biggest hassle is lining up everything, a second pair of hands or a couple of large "G" clamps to help keep it all aligned and together may also help........andyd Quote
Andydodge Posted March 21, 2010 Report Posted March 21, 2010 Bob, also I noticed that one of your pics shows a heap of oil & grease around the steering box where it mounts onto the chassis......I wouldn't even attempt to replace the rubber pieces until I'd cleaned every piece of oil, grease & crap from all around this area..........its not a difficult job to replace the insulator pads but all the crap there will make it much more difficult & messy........it will make the job a pain in the arse otherwise.........lol.......andyd Quote
Merle Coggins Posted March 21, 2010 Report Posted March 21, 2010 All of this talk about steering box isolator rubber pads has be curious. What is their purpose? I can see how they might help eliminate frame vibrations and noise from traveling up through the steering column, but wouldn't they also make the steering a bit mushy? They would allow the steering box to move slightly with the different loads applied to it while steering. On the trucks the steering box is bolted tightly to the frame without any isolators. Merle Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 21, 2010 Report Posted March 21, 2010 the insulation pad is there to prevent road shock..the installation is clear cut in the book and one needs pay attention to the proper torque value when installing so as not to collaspe the the spacers...torque to 45-50 ft. pd. 1 Quote
greg g Posted March 21, 2010 Report Posted March 21, 2010 When they are gone or mushy, they allow the box to move agaisnt the frame before the steering gear moves the wheels. Probably evidenced by a lot of freeplay when going from one direction to another, or some clunk while going around corners. Quote
aero3113 Posted March 21, 2010 Author Report Posted March 21, 2010 Who's Bob?? LoL. Thanks for the help. Also I am guessing this should be done with the front end jacked up. Should I support the steering arm with a jack stand when the bolts are out so the steering arm does not drop? Anyone have any pics of the job in progress so I can get an idea of the pieces (Sleeves). Thanks again, Keith Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 21, 2010 Report Posted March 21, 2010 best advice from the book is that if you are installing it as an assembly (replacing pads only for example)...install box, pads and bolt but do not tighten until all other items are in place and affixed firm..then tighten to specifications... Quote
aero3113 Posted March 21, 2010 Author Report Posted March 21, 2010 Both pads have these (Sleeves) molded on them? Do I still use the metal ones that Andy is talking about or are these there instead? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 21, 2010 Report Posted March 21, 2010 if mmemory serves me correct, the outer side of the frame has a "plate" that will sandwich the rubber between it and the frame..the protrusions wil insert inside the frame holes..the bosses molded onto the other side is the areas they refer to "not to collaspe" by over torquing.. Quote
martybose Posted March 21, 2010 Report Posted March 21, 2010 I found a good reference in my parts book. The thicker of the two pads goes to the outside of the framerail, the round rubber protrusions have steel ferules to fit in the holes in the frame, and the tubular spacers go through the insulators so that the bolt torque goes from the outer steel plate through the tubular spacers to the steering box, so that it isn't possible to crush the insulators. Marty Quote
Andydodge Posted March 21, 2010 Report Posted March 21, 2010 Keith(would you like to be known as Bob?...lol.)....oops, sorry about that.......the "ferrules" or metal sleeves that I called them are the things that sit around the molded tube things that you are referring to, you must use the metal ferrules or sleeves on the outside of the molded tube things then the crush tubes fit inside the rubber tubes......wish I had a picture but none of my books show it.......Marty........do you have a pic you could post?..........Andyd(also known as Bob........lol.....).......also would probably be better with the front end jacked up for room to move under the car, but technically this job shouldn't affect the steering/suspension settings etc unless you decide to disconnect the tie rods from the steering box drag link which may make things a little easier without the weight of the steering tierods adding to the steering box weight...........andyd(also known as Bob) Quote
martybose Posted March 22, 2010 Report Posted March 22, 2010 (edited) Keith(would you like to be known as Bob?...lol.)....oops, sorry about that.......the "ferrules" or metal sleeves that I called them are the things that sit around the molded tube things that you are referring to, you must use the metal ferrules or sleeves on the outside of the molded tube things then the crush tubes fit inside the rubber tubes......wish I had a picture but none of my books show it.......Marty........do you have a pic you could post?..........Andyd(also known as Bob........lol.....).......also would probably be better with the front end jacked up for room to move under the car, but technically this job shouldn't affect the steering/suspension settings etc unless you decide to disconnect the tie rods from the steering box drag link which may make things a little easier without the weight of the steering tierods adding to the steering box weight...........andyd(also known as Bob) I'll take a shot of the parts manual picture and post it when I get home tonight. Marty Edited March 23, 2010 by martybose added photo Quote
aero3113 Posted March 22, 2010 Author Report Posted March 22, 2010 Hey guys I replaced the steering box insulators today,the job took about an hour. I jacked the front end, cleaned the area and pulled the bolts. I cleaned all the hardware and installed the new pads.I torqued the bolts to 48ftlbs(between 45-50ftlbs). I had no problems aligning the bolts with the steering box. I took some pictures along the way. Before the cleaning As clean as I could get it Outer plate off Steering Box Unbolted All Parts For The Job New And Old Pads Steering Box With New Pad 1 Quote
greg g Posted March 22, 2010 Report Posted March 22, 2010 How does it feel incomparison to what was there? Quote
aero3113 Posted March 22, 2010 Author Report Posted March 22, 2010 I don't know yet, it is raining today. We are supposed to have some nice weather towards the end of the week. I will give a update on the feel once I drive it. Quote
aero3113 Posted March 22, 2010 Author Report Posted March 22, 2010 I did notice when I put the car down off the jack and moved the steering wheel side to side the tires turned with no play in the steering wheel. With the old pads there was some play before the tires would move . Quote
greg g Posted March 23, 2010 Report Posted March 23, 2010 Probably go down the road straighter with less input also. Quote
aero3113 Posted March 23, 2010 Author Report Posted March 23, 2010 Marty,thanks for the pic. I'm sure this will help explain my pics. Quote
Andydodge Posted March 23, 2010 Report Posted March 23, 2010 Marty, also thanks.........makes it much easier to see what i was trying to describe.........lol........and Keith, glad it went well, regards, andyd. Quote
aero3113 Posted March 25, 2010 Author Report Posted March 25, 2010 Went on a drive today and noticed a big difference with the new steering box insulators. Steering wheel was not as shaky when going over bumps and runs nice an smooth down the road . Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.