50' b2b rear axle removal

[fitzjohn]

is there a c-slip on the rear axle shaft? what is the best way to remove the rear axle for replacing seals on a 50' b2b? any help greatly appreciated.

[Merle Coggins]

No C-clips. You will need to remove the brake assemblies, including the backing plates in order to remove the axle shafts. Then you will need a puller to pull the axles out of the housing. Here is a previous thread regarding the tools needed to pull out the axles. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=15033&highlight=axle+shaft

Merle

[Dodgeb4ya]

No "C" clip is used as on late model cars. Use the proper hub puller to remove the drum Remove the brake backing plate. Then use a puller to remove the axle shaft. It is held in the housing by the cup piece of a typical cone and roller Timken bearing-so you need to over come the friction fit of the bearing cup that is usually semi tight in the axle housing -preventing the cone part of the bearing that is on the axle shaft from sliding right out of the axle housing. To remove shaft and bearing it self use a slide hammer W/a hook or a old axle nut welded adapter to fit the slide hammer and threads on axle shaft/a long large chain-whip the chain to remove the shaft kinda dangerous. Sometimes the shafts pull right out! Don't loose/mix up the shims for axle end play. Some pics of removal and what the situation looks like. I have and use the factory Miller tool to remove them.

Bob

[Young Ed]

Here's mine. After removing the backing plate put the drum back on with this behind it and use the axle nut as a puller.

[JBNeal]

I'm gonna be going through the axles soon, when I did this 10 years ago I don't remember needing a puller. The driver side shaft I used the brake drum to pull the shaft with the backing plate removed. The passenger side shaft just walked on out, wasn't tight at all. I recall at the time that didn't seem right, but I didn't see any damage, no scoring or rust was present, and I've put 10k on it in the meantime. This will be an area of concern if the bearing cup just falls out, I don't know for certain how this can be repaired readily. I'll have to take plenty of measurements to see if something is out of whack. Does the loose bearing cup sound like an indication of a looming problem, such as axle shaft failure? YIKES

[HanksB3B]

in the third shot. Thank the Lord I'll never need one for my B#B. It sure looks like "The right Tool for the Right Job". Glad you got it done.

Hank

[Dodgeb4ya]

I wouldn't worry about a shaft coming out easy unless the race just falls out. Never have seen a worn axle housing area the race fits into. The bearing cone should be a tight press fit on the axle shaft though.

[JBNeal]

It took me awhile to jog my memory, but now I recall that my rear axle has two issues.  One issue is the one bearing cup that falls out of the axle housing...over the years I had this idea that I could use aluminum foil as a shimming collar so the cup would stay put.  The other issue is the axle bearing stuck on the axle shaft.  I mean it was on there good...I had an old timer tell me back when I pulled this apart around '99 that he would torch cut bearings off when they got stuck like that.  I would rather not put heat anywhere near these axle shafts, and I am nervous to put this in some sort of press for fear of bending the axle or mushrooming the threads.  In the meantime, I had packed the bearing as best that I could while stuck on the shaft, then reinstalled...a task easier said than done.   And with 10k on that, it is time to repack.  So maybe we'll see if that bearing will just ease off of the axle this time...or maybe I'll have to carefully remove it from the shaft and replace the bearing and the cup for easier future maintenance...hmmmm thar's a thinker 

[Merle Coggins]

There should be a plug on the bottom of the axle hub, on the backside of the brake assembly. Remove the plug and insert a grease fitting. pump in a bit of grease and reinstall the plug. That's what I remember from the maintenance section of my manual.

Correction... don't use a grease gun as it could push grease past the seal and into your brakes...

Edited June 2, 2017 by Merle Coggins

[JBNeal]

plug identified but bearing removal might be tricky...I also recall that on service intervals I would find either liquefied grease or heavy oil or both that would drip out, so I'm concerned there is some wear on the axle shaft sealing surface as well, maybe gear oil is getting past the seal...either way, it all needs to come out to be cleaned, and cleaning a roller bearing on an axle shaft is like a monkey on a football

[Young Ed]

6 hours ago, JBNeal said:

It took me awhile to jog my memory, but now I recall that my rear axle has two issues.  One issue is the one bearing cup that falls out of the axle housing...over the years I had this idea that I could use aluminum foil as a shimming collar so the cup would stay put.  The other issue is the axle bearing stuck on the axle shaft.  I mean it was on there good...I had an old timer tell me back when I pulled this apart around '99 that he would torch cut bearings off when they got stuck like that.  I would rather not put heat anywhere near these axle shafts, and I am nervous to put this in some sort of press for fear of bending the axle or mushrooming the threads.  In the meantime, I had packed the bearing as best that I could while stuck on the shaft, then reinstalled...a task easier said than done.   And with 10k on that, it is time to repack.  So maybe we'll see if that bearing will just ease off of the axle this time...or maybe I'll have to carefully remove it from the shaft and replace the bearing and the cup for easier future maintenance...hmmmm thar's a thinker 

those axle bearings are pressed on. They should be like that. Repack as Merle said or by hand if you've already got it out and call it good. For the bearing cup that doesn't fit tight in the axle try taking a punch and making some dimples in the housing. The raised metal that forms up around the dent will hold them if your gap isn't too large. 

[Dave72dt]

The aluminum foil will hammer out .  The center punch trick works fairly well.  Those marks can also get hammered out over time.  Adding some Locktite into the process will help it last longer.