Frank Elder Posted February 12, 2010 Report Posted February 12, 2010 yup... d-r-i-n-k-m-o-r-e-o-v-a-l-t-i-n-ePete What was the doodad you could get with one thin dime? I remember some sort of club or cereal ad like that.... Quote
grady hawkins Posted February 13, 2010 Report Posted February 13, 2010 I have been running low profile 54 Ply carb on my D=24. It has .040 off the head and bored .030 over and the rest stock. The low profile carb vs. the regular is very noticeable in that the low profile carb seems to provide better power when I compared it with the tall standard carb. I also found a part number for just the accelartor pump for the low profile Quote
Johnny 5 Posted February 15, 2010 Report Posted February 15, 2010 The reason the Webers tend to run rich is because they're a bit large for a daily driver. If you put a realistic rev limit of 5200rpm on a flat six then it will need a maximum of around 350 cfm. At cruise it's only pulling a little over 150 cfm. Even the 251 Chrysler only uses ~160cfm at cruise and 380 at redline. The numbers are all rounded but I think you get the point. Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 15, 2010 Report Posted February 15, 2010 The reason the Webers tend to run rich is because they're a bit large for a daily driver. If you put a realistic rev limit of 5200rpm on a flat six then it will need a maximum of around 350 cfm. At cruise it's only pulling a little over 150 cfm. Even the 251 Chrysler only uses ~160cfm at cruise and 380 at redline. The numbers are all rounded but I think you get the point.Hi Johnny 5, if I decided to go with the 2bbl to 1 bbl intake adaptor,split exhaust, engine stock, which carb might be best for a driver.The engine is a 218 Canadian Long Block 6, the same engine as a 251, except for a smaller bore and slightly shorter stroke.....Fred Quote
greg g Posted February 15, 2010 Report Posted February 15, 2010 non electric 318 or 273 carbs there is also a holley equivelent. Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 15, 2010 Report Posted February 15, 2010 non electric 318 or 273 carbs there is also a holley equivelent. Thanx Greg, any idea what CFM those may have.... Quote
greg g Posted February 15, 2010 Report Posted February 15, 2010 not really probably 300 to 400 maybe 500 on the outside. Carter BBD ran them on Jeeps, /6 powerpacks. etc. You might want to see if anybody is selling on the /6 board. Holley or motorcraft is the 2100 I think. Quote
Johnny 5 Posted February 15, 2010 Report Posted February 15, 2010 Hi Johnny 5, if I decided to go with the 2bbl to 1 bbl intake adaptor,split exhaust, engine stock, which carb might be best for a driver.The engine is a 218 Canadian Long Block 6, the same engine as a 251, except for a smaller bore and slightly shorter stroke.....Fred IMHO the best setup on the market is the George Asche 3x1bbl. It's got the best of everything. Proper CFM requirement, straight shot to the intake and a complete proven system. Quote
mr63inaz Posted February 16, 2010 Report Posted February 16, 2010 IMHO the best setup on the market is the George Asche 3x1bbl. It's got the best of everything. Proper CFM requirement, straight shot to the intake and a complete proven system. I tryied to search for this George Asche whats his site or where to find his product?? thanks Quote
james curl Posted February 16, 2010 Report Posted February 16, 2010 Look on the home page under links, he is listed there. He does not do internet, but has a phone number to call. Be prepared for a long conversation, he has forgotten more about MoPars than most ever dreamed of knowing. He converts the original intake by adding two new inlets to it and blocks the exhaust and adds an outlet for dual exhaust. Quote
Robert Horne Posted February 16, 2010 Report Posted February 16, 2010 I have a 2bl intake that was on a 56 Dodge. I was wondering if any one has tried to weld on a 2bl flange to a stock 1bl intake. The 305 Chevey 2bl carb fit on my intake very good. I think the $39.50 adapter would make a bottle neck flow, and not give good performance, but really do not know. Quote
Barabbas Posted February 20, 2010 Author Report Posted February 20, 2010 It's a beautiful semi-spring day here and being a shade tree mechanic (no garage), I had to get out and work on the ol 52 Cranbrook. I took a close look at the carbs and decided that they were worse than I remembered; decided to get rebuilding proto. Went to order a rebuild kit from Carb Dcotor and realized I have a problem. The medal ID tags are missing from my Carbs I have no idea what vintage of Carter BBS I have. Checked the web and found "identifying the carbs without the tags is very difficult" So am I out of luck or are the BBS series carbs close enough that any BBS rebuild kit will do (Carb Doc has 3 diff kits for the BBS) Maybe I'll end up with the dual Webers after all ( I love a good rationalization) Quote
Young Ed Posted February 21, 2010 Report Posted February 21, 2010 The Napa kits for the B&Bs covers many many carbs. Perhaps if you order a BBS kit from them it would be a one works for all kit too. Quote
Barabbas Posted February 21, 2010 Author Report Posted February 21, 2010 Thanks Ed, I'll check out NAPA Quote
martybose Posted February 21, 2010 Report Posted February 21, 2010 The reason the Webers tend to run rich is because they're a bit large for a daily driver. If you put a realistic rev limit of 5200rpm on a flat six then it will need a maximum of around 350 cfm. At cruise it's only pulling a little over 150 cfm. Even the 251 Chrysler only uses ~160cfm at cruise and 380 at redline. The numbers are all rounded but I think you get the point. 5200 RPM!!!??? I don't think there is anyone with a street-driven motor that ever gets anywhere near that kind of RPM. With that long stroke mine feels like it is thrashing pretty hard if it is over 4000 RPM, which happens rarely. That said, I've got dual Carter-Webers on an Edmunds manifold on my modified 230, and they ran nice out of the box. I have been experimenting with the jetting a bit, but so far all I've proven is that you can screw up the gas mileage by going too rich. Marty Quote
Barabbas Posted February 23, 2010 Author Report Posted February 23, 2010 Tim, Got one in the mail today from ebay--can't wait to use it---thanks for the info Mike Quote
Barabbas Posted February 23, 2010 Author Report Posted February 23, 2010 I took one of the Carbs out today--easy, real easy, maybe too easy. What should the torque be on nuts attaching the carb to the the AL offy intake? Mine came off so easy I didn't even scrape a knuckle---probably no more than 5-10 ft-lbs What's the best way to clean the carb? I have to do it in my basement so I'd like to keep the toxic/explosive fumes to a minimun Quote
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