Greetings from new member...

[blueskies]

...This was a running and driving set-up and is ready to drop in.

Thoughts and advice?

Looks like a done deal to me... if your objective is to get the car running and on the road. Not sure you could beat the price, you'd spend more rebuilding.

Pete

[Young Ed]

I'd want to hear it run or perform a compression check. If it passes those I agree. As plug and play as you can get.

[thrashingcows]

I'd want to hear it run or perform a compression check. If it passes those I agree. As plug and play as you can get.

Didn't think of a compression test...good thought.

What size is the crank bolt to turn the engine over. Or should I just power to the starter?

[Young Ed]

I think in order to check compression you need to spin it with the starter. Wouldnt hurt to turn it over by hand once to make sure everything is free before you use the starter.

[greg g]

You will not get a proper reading hand cranking so hook up the starter, make sure the ign of off or the coile wire tot he dist is pulled. Some people say you need to pull the plugs to do a proper compressio test. Some say it isn't necessary, but it does allow the starter to spin up the engine more easily.

[LuckyDevil]

And a few squirts of motor oil in the cylinder will ensure you are getting a good reading. Plus, you never know how long it sat since it's rebuild.

[BobT-47P15]

Personally, I would go for that rebuilt.

I have had good luck with such engines in the past.

May not be totally perfect, but are usually ahead of the game.

Last engine I bought to put in the brown coupe had been sitting

in a building, on a tire

for a few years (not sure how many) but it started up and has

been running reasonably well thus far.

[thrashingcows]

And a few squirts of motor oil in the cylinder will ensure you are getting a good reading. Plus, you never know how long it sat since it's rebuild.

Doesn't oil in the cylinders seal up bad rings? Shouldn't I do one check "dry" first, then use oil and see if the reading changes.

Also how many revolutions do you go? Isn't it something like 3-4 revolutions of the dizzy rotor?

Been many a year since I had to do a compression test on a motor I was buying.

[LuckyDevil]

I have always heard that you want a wet cylinder. It will prevent you from damaging the cylinder walls. My manual says:

To make a compression test, the engine should be run until it is warm so as to be sure that oil has worked up the cylinder walls to seal the pistons and rings.

But later on it reads:

To determine whether the compression loss is due to worn piston rings or defective valves, pour approximately one tablespoonful of SAE 30 engine oil into the spark plug holes and then recheck the compression. If there is no change in the compression reading, it indicates that the valves are defective and should be reconditioned. On the other hand, if the compression readings are higher after the oil is poured into the cylinders, it indicates that the piston rings and/or the cylinders are worn.

So with that all being said..... I guess it is up to you. Instead of using motor oil for the first go round, you might use Marvel Mystery oil or something like that, just in case one of the rings is seized to the piston.

Sorry if I am just confusing you.

[thrashingcows]

Maybe I'll just squirt in some light weight hyd. fluid. It should work past the rings pretty easy and maybe not cause much change in the reading?

[Andydodge]

Gidday from Oz........my understanding re a compression test is that you need the "wet" cylinder in order that the gap between the rings/piston/cylinder is "sealed", therefore giving you a proper compression figure without any blowby........ LuckyDevils info from the manual is correct, you WANT the oil to seal the piston/ring/wall gap, therefore use SAE30 oil.......a lightweight oil is useless in this application....andyd

[thrashingcows]

Alright 30 weight for the compression test it is.

I passed on a couple local motor, well passed on one since it was a running motor, 30K miles on a rebuild. Has a cracked intake and exhaust manifold as well. But I would have had to pull the motor.

The other one turned out to be a 23" flatty.

So I've e-mailed the guy and told him I'll take the motor and tranny. Just need to get up there and get it now. It's a good 5 hour drive, one way, to go get it.

[thrashingcows]

I was looking at some pics of members 2 dr sedan Plymouth and Dodges and wonder if the side glass is the same for Dodge, Plymouth, Desoto and Chryslers in this body style.

Fernando needs new glass pretty much all the way around. I was looking into getting new glass made up, or buying a set already cut for me. But if I can source decent used glass that might be a little cheaper.

Thoughts?

[mackster]

I was looking at some pics of members 2 dr sedan Plymouth and Dodges and wonder if the side glass is the same for Dodge, Plymouth, Desoto and Chryslers in this body style.

Fernando needs new glass pretty much all the way around. I was looking into getting new glass made up, or buying a set already cut for me. But if I can source decent used glass that might be a little cheaper.

Thoughts?

when do you get possession of the car?

[Niel Hoback]

Plymouths are smaller cars and the glass won't fit. All the others should swap, though, Dodge, DeSoto, and Chrysler.

[LuckyDevil]

Earlier this year my dad had his windshield and both of the front door glass made and it cost $48 and $32. The most expensive part was the darn windshield rubber. It was like $160 or something like that.

Anyways, the glass is flat and as long as you have a piece that is still good around the edge, it can be used as a template for a new piece and shouldn't cost an arm and a leg.

[thrashingcows]

Luckydevil...Wow that is a great deal!!

I was looking at this guy on E-pay....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310193950910&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

$395 for a complete set, minus the rear glass.

[1940plymouth]

Like Luckydevil mentionied, if you have a good template, any good auto glass place and cut the flat glass. That is what I did with my windshield, and door windows on my P-10 coupe, again at a very reasonable price

Hope this helps,

Bob

[thrashingcows]

Like Luckydevil mentionied' date=' if you have a good template, any good auto glass place and cut the flat glass. That is what I did with my windshield, and door windows on my P-10 coupe, again at a very reasonable price

Hope this helps,

Bob[/quote']

I have a good glass company just up the street. I'll go have a word withthem about cutting me new glass.

Thanks again guys for the info and advice!!

[Barabbas]

Lucky Devil,

Where did your Dad find the Windshield rubber? My 52 could sure use some new seals around the windscreen

[blueskies]

Bought my rubber seals from Steele Rubber, fits like a glove...

Pete

[hkestes41]

Lucky Devil,

Where did your Dad find the Windshield rubber? My 52 could sure use some new seals around the windscreen

Barabbas,

I posted this under a different thread. Might be something to check out.

"I talked to the owner of this Desoto while at the HAMB Drags.

During our conversation the subject of windshield and rear window rubber seals came up. He passed along a tip for an alternative product to use for this application. He said he used the window seal from a John Deere Combine cab. https://jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/d...TrimGuide5.pdf

He said it was slightly smaller than the stock rubber seal but that he just added some silicone seal to the channel prior to install and in 2 years has had zero leaks. It was evening in the hotel parking lot when I was looking at the rubber so I did not get a real good look at it but from what I saw it looked good and did not look significantly smaller than stock. Here is the kicker, he said a roll of the rubber is like $20 and will do the windshield and rear window.

I have not used this just going on this guys recommendation. Just thought I would pass it along in case someone is at the point of replacing their seals. If you do give this a shot let us all know how it turns out."

[thrashingcows]

when do you get possession of the car?

Sorry I didn't reply to your question.

I'm waiting on the title and bill of sale. I've sent a deposit. I hope to have it home sometime in April.

[Barabbas]

Pete,

thanks for the vendor's name. I have a very slight leak on the passenger side so this should cure it; I also have to get some shatterproof glass in the windshield.

[Barabbas]

Thanks for the creative solution---I'm not sure if I want to turn my car into a Combine just yet, but I love the idea