Differential

[HanksB3B]

What would be the original ratio of a 1951 B3B 1/2 ton. My truck seems to top out around 50mph. I think original is 411 but not sure. If I intend to hardly ever carry a load, only two people what size would I want to find to put into my rear end so that I could cruise at 60-65-70mph.

Thanks.

Hank

[Young Ed]

Do you still have 16in wheels? If not thats a big help right there. A 3.73 or 3.90 that bolts into the factory housing can be found from cars. Otherwise look for a similar ratio in a modern diff.

[HanksB3B]

I have 15" wheels with oversized tires P235/75/R15

When you say cars, I'm guessing you mean P15-P24s right?

Thanks,

Hank

[Young Ed]

If you want to swap in just the center section then ya a mopar car of similar vintage will work. In 53 for cars the axel spline count changed. Being you have a 53 truck I'm not sure what spline could you would have. Otherwise you can look at a more modern rear end and swap the whole works in. Something in the 3.54 range should work well with a stock engine and the 15" wheels.

[Merle Coggins]

I am running 235/75R-15's on my B2C with a '50 Plymouth 3.73 diff in the truck's original axle housing. I can buzz down the freeway at 70 - 75 if I want to. Although it's more comfortable if I stay below 70, mostly because of the loose steering and the thought of stopping at that speed with drum brakes.

Merle

[HanksB3B]

That's sounds about good to me. Before I do make that change I want to have my steering box re-built so as not to terrify the wife. I have the name of someone in the Los Angeles area that a few people have recommended.

I think "CJ" 310-323-1893 quoted me about $125.00 which seems reasonable. There's also an outfit in North Carolina I've heard good things about from P15-D24 guys here. My friend Andy has a NOS one that he bought 20 years ago when swapmeets had MOPAR items, but breaking and entering is not my thing. I wish he'd put it on his truck already.

Thanks,

Hank

[grey beard]

Hank,

Are you sure your steering box must be rebuilt? If this is so, you are in a vast MINORITY. Get your wheels set dead straight ahead, and back off the adjustment screw on top of the box - the big one under the acorn nut cover. Now feel the steering wheel and shaft for any up-and-down play. There should be none.

If you find play in the shaft and steering wheel, get underneath and pull the four bolts out of your steering box end, down there where it's all dirty and oily - where the horn wire comes out. Now pull the end off the box. Expect oil to come out. If it doesn't, no body's been doing any maintennance here lately.

Your job is to locate and remove a few of the thin metal shims held in place by the box end. They look like gaskets. If you take too many out, the box will be too tight. Too few and you will still have play. Get the idea?

I repeat, this must all be done with the top big screw adjustment backed way off - a turn or two at least.

Get the box to have zero up and down movement at the steering wheel, and then put the bottom back together and fill the hox with gear oil. Now readjust the top big screw so you have no play in the box when you turn the wheel side-to-side.

Now drive it down the road and enjoy. Bob's Your Uncle!

These boxes rarely need to be overhauled. I'll bet this recipe will make you happy. Good Luck. Let us know how it works.

Next problem will be what to spend that extra money on that you saved to have the box overhauled, what?

[Fernando Mendes]

In the bottom of my original B3-B(1952),VIN 90099559(DG-1) is casted D 4.1 1235

[greg g]

On the cars, there is also a small adjustment screw onthe box the moves the gear in the box in relation to the gear onthe shaft. This will sometime be all you need to firm up the steering. Check the mounting bolts. some of the setups have rubber isolators where the boxt to frame bolts go through the frame. Thses will get deteroirate over time and allow the box to flop against the frame before it starts to move the steering arm. You might find that between three, a lot of slop will go out of the system without the need to pull the box and column.

The adjust ment on the box is on top has a locking bolt, and sloted threaded bolt ad a star wheel. Loosen the hold down, back off the star wheel a turn or two, then thighten the sloted screw to brinng the star wheel back int cotact with the box and then lock it down. A little is a lot with this and you don;t want to over do it. If indeed the trucks use the same box as the cars.

[HanksB3B]

Thank you Uncle Bob and Greg.

I'm glad to know there may be some hope for my steering box. I read about removing the shims in the service manual, but not from a hands-on perspective. I mean it wasn't described how to feel for the play etc. I feel a lot more comfortable now in attempting this and am very appreciative for sharing your experience with me.

A few things you should know:

1. The Steering Box was always sloppy from the day I got the truck in 1979.

2. I think (hope) I kept it lubricated until I parked it in 1985.

3. During the restoration process the Steering Box and Steering Column (attached) was powder-coated as an assembly. It returned a little funky, in that what appeared to be rusty oil was leaking out, so I guess it wasn't "dry".

4. I think at some point what greg mentions as " you don't want to over do it" might have been overdone, as a alignment shop pointed out to me that the slotted adjustment screw was locked-up, or frozen. What damage is if any is done by overtightening the adjusting screw.

5. I had heard from a swapmeet vendor specializing in rebuilt steering boxes that rather than use gear oil he packed the boxes with synthetic grease. Do you think this is a good practice ?

Thanks,

Hank

[greg g]

Well the lube might have cooked out when the powder was baked. I have heard of people using lots of stuff in steering boxes, from greese to STP to outboard lower unit lube.

I gues the advantage of greese is it isn't gonna leak out. There really isn't a lot going on in there, so anything that lessens frictin ad keeps the rust out had gotta be the "right" thing.

[grey beard]

Hank,

Can't speak to what took place inside your steering box when it was powder coated - NOT a good idea, and not original, either.

The best lube for any manual steering box in the whole wide world is John Deere Corn head lube - the slipperiest stuff known to mankind. Tractor guys use it in their boxes - makes like power steering.

Good Luck

Let us- know how you fare.

[bkahler]

What would be the original ratio of a 1951 B3B 1/2 ton. My truck seems to top out around 50mph. I think original is 411 but not sure. If I intend to hardly ever carry a load, only two people what size would I want to find to put into my rear end so that I could cruise at 60-65-70mph.

Thanks.

Hank

Hank,

1951 was the first year the factory had 3:73 gears in the pilot house trucks as an option. Fortunately my 51 B3B came with the 3:73 gears and I've got 16" wheels also. Now if I could just finish the truck and get it on the road I'd be happy!

Brad

[Young Ed]

Really? My 46 pickup could have optional 3.73s. Funny the book skips over 3.90 as an option which is what I installed in mine.

[bkahler]

Really? My 46 pickup could have optional 3.73s. Funny the book skips over 3.90 as an option which is what I installed in mine.

Ed,

I based my statement from what I remember reading from Bunn's book. Of course that was over 10 years ago and my memory isn't what it used to be!

Brad

[HanksB3B]

Hank,

Can't speak to what took place inside your steering box when it was powder coated - NOT a good idea, and not original, either.

The best lube for any manual steering box in the whole wide world is John Deere Corn head lube - the slipperiest stuff known to mankind. Tractor guys use it in their boxes - makes like power steering.

Good Luck

Let us- know how you fare.

Uncle Bob,

Not original doesn't bother me. All the sheet metal parts are powder coated on my truck. Rust bothers me, and yes "Not a good idea" also does. I should've, could've, would,ve been more careful and taken the steering column and box totally apart before it was powder coated. My heart's down on the farm but the rest of me is in Los Angeles. Probably no one ever heard of "John Deere Corn head lube"...but I'll Google it, get some and use it. I'll take your advice.

Thanks,

Hank

[Dennis_MN]

Just picked up my Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End from the repair shop.

I had them replace the bad bearings and replace the seals, then cut off all of the Jeep stuff. Now I just have to clean it up a bit before I weld on the new spring perches.

Investment so far (investment is just a term I use with the wife, means co$t)

$100 purchase price from Craigs List

$285 for repair work.

Then I'm figuring around $500 for brake parts but that is for next spring.

You can buy these Dana 35 brand new from a Jeep source complete and without the brackets welded on. I forget the source and the cost but thats only for those that don't want to fool around.

I'll get it cleaned up, then it will wait until next spring for the brakes and installation. The old Dodge will be heading for the barn in a week or two and she'll carry the rear end project with her.