Stripped a flywheel bolt

[Plymouthy Adams]

Joe..I sid what I did for I have seen a number of click stop torque wrenches quit clicking per say..I shared my floor space for a brief time while they were redoing the cal lab for all torque wrenches and measureing device..claipers, dial indicators etc..most folks know that it is a requirement on a click stop type wrench to always return the set control back to the lowest indicated value for storing..lots of the click stop wrenches get chunked rather early in life..

Edited November 17, 2009 by Tim Adams

[Joe Flanagan]

Now, that's something I didn't know. But I am a great one for plunging ahead first and reading the directions later. I'll have to look at the manual that came with the wrench. So if I didn't set the wrench back to its lowest setting and then put it away for a long time (a few years in this case) could it be buggered?

[Plymouthy Adams]

it is said I believe, now remember I just shared the space and not the knowledge, that the spring will become relaxed if stored with tension on it..that was also one of the qeustion on an Air Force test I had to take years ago for to receive my 7 level skill rating

[Joe Flanagan]

Thanks, Tim. Sounds like it's time for a new one. And since I'm going to have the oil pan off again, I should probably check all the rod caps and the main bearing caps.

[blueskies]

Joe-

Man, your project sounds very familiar...

I redid just about everything three times too before my engine was finally in place.

I agree that all new bolts are in order, and I would suspect your torque wrench too.

Just think, you'll have great stories to tell over lots of beer.

Pete

[Joe Flanagan]

Pete,

I'm glad to hear it's happened to others. I don't know if my torque wrench is bad, but now I just don't feel comfortable using it. I didn't have a whole lot of pressure on the flywheel bolt when it stripped. I'm just going to have to take a step back, take a deep breath, and go back at it. After a few days away from it, that is.

[Plymouthy Adams]

if you have never experienced a set back..you have never tried to do anything

[Joe Flanagan]

That's the price of being in it. I get huge satisfaction out of this hobby. There isn't much else I like doing more. Today, the F-Bombs were flying but when it finally comes together, it will be that much more of a thrill.

[Norm's Coupe]

I had one of those clicking torque wrenches too. Threw it away and bought the one you see hanging on the wall. Just has the old fashioned pointer. I like those a lot better than those clicking things. I can see when this one reaches the proper torque. And, if it gets out of adjustment, I'll be able to see that before I start using it.

[Joe Flanagan]

I have one of those, too, Norm. I just got it into my head that the click-stop torque wrenches were better. Maybe that's wrong. Does anyone have any information on which is better?

[Plymouthy Adams]

a calibrated click stop torque wrench is very hard to beat especially in uses where you tighten in stages..where an angle torque is required (say 95 ft. lb. plus 1/4 turn) I recommend the use of your breaker bar for the added 1/4 turn..also in the daily use of torque wrenches it is advised not to ..break loose...nuts and bolts..most cal labs I check tools out of have warning labels affixed to the tools stating that this tool is for tighening only..etc etc..or in the case of the left hand torque..will be calibrated for that direction..

[Jim Saraceno]

Besides not know how to use a torque wrench properly, I also was not aware of backing off the setting while not in use.

I finally went out and bought a more expensive digital torque reader. When I checked the accuracy of my two older torque wrenches the click-stop that I had for 5 years was way out of wack (I assume from leaving it set at high torque) but my bend-arm-pointer type that I've had for 40 years was actually very close.

[Joe Flanagan]

Interesting, Jim. I'm going to be going out to get a new one in the next few days. I also have to get a new oil pan gasket and new flywheel bolts and nuts. Can't get back to it until the weekend, unfortunately.

[Young Ed]

I read an article that about this in Car craft. They said the pointer ones were the worst with the click type ones being good for the hobbyist. The Digital one that Jim mentioned was the top of the list. I personally don't own one yet but I use Dads 30 something year old snap on. And when we're done using it he told me to always put it back to 0.

[greg g]

Joe if you have two wrenches, do a test. Put a good sized bolt in your benchvise, then put a few washers on it then tighten down a nut to say 50 lbft. with onne wrench and then check it with against the other. I have a clicker (elcheapo) and a needle and gauge deal, I did a similar test on a bolt I put throughthe frame on the studie. They were within a pound of each other. Now were they both pretty accurate, or were they both eually inaccurate, who knows. Where torque ratigs are given within a range, like the 65 to 70 for our head bolts, I usually use the lower rating.

The other day I did a wheel hub on the front of an Explorer I just bought for a beater, the hub to knuckle bolts called for 50 lbft, but are in a position where it impossible to use the torque wrench, except on one. So I used my calibrated wrist. and tightend them as far as I could with the box wrench. then I went about 1/8th of a tur more by taping the wrench with a brass hammer. When I checked the one I could withthe torque wrench it was at 48lbft. So I got the box wrench and hammer and gace each two presicely measure taps each.

Then the hub to axle nut called for 175 lbft. I used my impact to get it to about 120. and the breaker bar to give it about a quarter more, and then measured withthe torque wrench at 167 and decided to leave it there. Hasn't fallen out yet. It does seem the 170 lbft on an axle which is squeezing the bearings is a bit much. Probably so they wear out and need replacing.

An artical I read a long time back said the the beam wrenches were preferable to the click to stop deals especially the lower priced ones.

[1948Skip]

Didn't anybody catch what Joe is going to do. Run a 3/8 die onto a 7/16 bolt.

3/8 is .375

7/16 is .437

the 3/8 die will not work

Skip

[Norm's Coupe]

Well.........I'm not going to argue which type of wrench is better. Lets face it, there are different grades of quality for each type. But........bottom line for me is, I like the pointer type wrench better, and feel more comfortable using it. Also have more confidence in something I can see as opposed to just hearing.

Guess I'm really saying, we should use the one we feel the most confident with. By doing that, we should do a better job of tightening the bolts and nuts, simply because we have the confidence in the tool we're using. After all, the pointer type torque wrench has been around much longer than the clickers or digital ones have been around.

[Joe Flanagan]

Didn't anybody catch what Joe is going to do. Run a 3/8 die onto a 7/16 bolt.

3/8 is .375

7/16 is .437

the 3/8 die will not work

Skip

I was in fact able to cut 3/8 threads into the 7/16 bolt and pretty cleanly too. I even compared the result to a new 3/8 bolt side by side and there was no difference in thread. The problem was when I torqued down hard on it, it stripped. As did the 7/16 bolts I was trying to use.

It could be that the reason I could use the 3/8 die on the 7/16 bolt was that the bolt had already been badly stripped.

[Jim Yergin]

Joe,

I know it is probably more convenient for you to rent an engine lift near you but if you want to avoid having to return it within a set amount of time, you are more than welcome to borrow mine. Just bring your truck out and we can load it up. Use it as long as you need it then just bring it back.

Jim Yergin

[Joe Flanagan]

Thanks a lot Jim. I just may take you up on that. I have to return your long lost brake drum puller and battery charger anyway. Are you going to be around this weekend?

[Jim Yergin]

Joe,

I will be around. Just let me know what works for you.

Jim Yergin

[Joe Flanagan]

I've tried McMaster-Carr and Restoration Specialties and neither has the type of flywheel bolts I need. These are round-headed bolts with one side that is flat. Does anyone know of a source for these? Also, Greg, I didn't see your post earlier but thanks for the tips on the torque wrench. I've never heard of a beam wrench. I've also been in situations where there is no room to fit a torque wrench. I guesstimated.

[Joe Flanagan]

This is a really interesting article on torque wrenches and their testing and accuracy: http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_3.htm

[Norm's Coupe]

Joe,

Run a search on the internet or telephone book for a place that deals only in nuts and bolts. You should be able to find them that way.

[Don Coatney]

Well.........I'm not going to argue which type of wrench is better. After all' date=' the pointer type torque wrench has been around much longer than the clickers or digital ones have been around.[/quote']

Rotary phones have been around much longer than cell phones. Vacuum tube radios have been around much longer than ipods. Conventinal ovens have been around much longer than microwaves. Buttons have been around much longer than zippers. Shovels have been around much longer than snow blowers. P-15 coupes have been around much longer than the new vehicle you just bought. Why do you drive your new vehicle and leave your P-15 parked in the driveway?

I think you need to adjust your logic:rolleyes: