jmooner3 Posted October 28, 2009 Report Posted October 28, 2009 Hey folks -Jay from Vermont here, I have a 49 pilot with a flat head 6. I have a ton of questions please offer up any info you have! Much appreciated!!! The previous owner cobbed this truck together with bubble gum and bandaids, no breaks, point to point wire- all the same color some missing, etc.. It's just short of a basket case... Looking for any info people can offer on what this actually is. Engine serial is S1438768 and is 25 inches long. No plate on the pillar but found one in the glove box(maybe from this truck) Serial 92377064, B1B also there is a plate screwed to the firewall drivers side 4712172639. The engine is seized pulled the head today (what is the order of the cylindars?) not sure of number but the cylinder closest to the firewall looks like a bubbling rust mess. It's in a bath of marvel mystery now hoping a big hammer and block of wood will cure...Ideas..I hear Kroil is the stuff? Walls look pretty pitted, any ideas? Where can I get a copy of manuals for this truck? If I can free the engine I'll continue the project. I've had this truck in my barn for ~15years, my 10 year old is the one that got me going on this :-) I love it! I wish I knew more to pass on to him...with y'all's help he and I will learn together. I guess I'm long winded - any info or advice welcome!!! Thanks J Quote
Dan Babb Posted October 28, 2009 Report Posted October 28, 2009 I'm new to these trucks too, so I can't help much. Lots of good info here: http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/know.htm and here: http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/sengines.html Good luck figuring out what you have there. Quote
PatS.... Posted October 28, 2009 Report Posted October 28, 2009 Welcome! Your engine number identifies it as a DeSoto engine, S14 I believe is a 1950 DeSoto. Chrysler and DeSoto came with the 25 inch blocks as did Canadian Mopars. More info here than you'll need and the Pilothouse is fairly simple and straight forward. Involve your son in the learning process and you'll both be expert in no time. One bit of advice, resist the urge to take the truck apart down to the last bolt. Get it running and go system by system from there. Quote
austinsailor Posted October 28, 2009 Report Posted October 28, 2009 I' wonder if it was originally built with a 25" motor or was modified? Might be Canadian, then motor replaced? Well, we won't have to wonder long - one of the many experts here will know from the serial numbers. If you can save the block, great, if not there are 25" motors around fairly cheap. $100 to $200 should buy you a rebuildable motor, and with luck, it won't need rebuilding after all. Chrysler, truck or another desoto would work, it's not a "matching number" truck anyway. Watch eBay and search craigs list within you comfortabe driving distance and one will show up. Pictures??!! Gene g Getting ready to tear down my "new" desoto motor Quote
48Dodger Posted October 28, 2009 Report Posted October 28, 2009 Welcome to the forum! At the top of the page here is : "Visit DEPTCA" click that button, then at the bottom of that page is: "Pilot's Knowledge" click that button and you'll find a lot of info that's helpful. use the "search" button to find old threads on common subjects and visit the car side to double check engine questions too, or just to say "hello". ebay is a good source for manuals.....here's a few links for you. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1948-1949-Dodge-B-1-Pickup-and-Truck-CD-Shop-Manual-B1_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad3c9baffQQitemZ390100269823QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fLiterature http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1948-1949-Dodge-B-1-Pickup-Truck-Owner-Manual-48-49_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad3c9beb0QQitemZ390100270768QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fLiterature http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1948-1949-Dodge-Pickup-and-Truck-Shop-Manual-B1-48-49_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad3c9bf79QQitemZ390100270969QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fLiterature http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1949-1950-1951-1952-1953-Dodge-Truck-Parts-Book-Manual_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53dda1ac7bQQitemZ360200645755QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fLiterature http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1948-1949-Dodge-Truck-B-1-B-B-1-C-Owners-Owners-Manual_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3ef9899758QQitemZ270474516312QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fLiterature This is a great Forum site, you'll enjoy it. 48D Quote
Merle Coggins Posted October 28, 2009 Report Posted October 28, 2009 Welcome, I believe Pat is right, your engine is from a DeSoto. When I got my truck the head had already been removed and the cylinders were filled with what looked like a mix of trans fluid, penatrating oil, and water. It took a block of wood and a BFH to get the pistons out so I could take it to an engine shop. He bored it .030" over and it cleaned up good. Boring, honing, milling the block deck and head, new valve guides and seats (because they were badly pitted from rust), and a new set of pistons and rings cost me around $750. I realize that's a pretty good deal, but there are shops out there that are good with old engines and have reasonable prices. I have around $1500 in my rebuilt engine and it runs great. The serial number you found (92377064) doesn't come up on the decoder on this site. http://www.t137.com/registry/help/decode.php I thought maybe the 9 should be an 8, but that comes back as a 1955 C-3-B. Look very closely at the front frame rail just behind the front spring mount on the left side. You may have to wire brush or lightly sand the area, but the serial number should be stamped into the frame in that area. There is info regarding that on the DEPTCA site too. Merle Quote
greg g Posted October 28, 2009 Report Posted October 28, 2009 A picture of the trucks and some of its trim pieces if any are left would be helpful. As noted the engine is A Desoto code number but engines swaps were common to keep these thing running. Quote
townwagon Posted October 29, 2009 Report Posted October 29, 2009 In the 1949 model year Dodge changed the body tag to 4912 instead of 4712, so that is a 1948-49 model cab. That is all I can say, if as you say it was built up of other trucks who knows what the frame was from, or what front sheet metal was used. Eric Quote
townwagon Posted October 29, 2009 Report Posted October 29, 2009 9234692 is the starting serial number for a 1949 California built B-1-B. Your serial number of 92377064 has too many digits, but maybe you added the 0 or something? If you added an extra digit then you have a CA built 1949 B-1-B-108 truck. That may match the 4712 body tag, but I do not have enough CA production trucks to compare it to. Eric Quote
jmooner3 Posted October 29, 2009 Author Report Posted October 29, 2009 I'll re-check the SN to be sure I got the mumber right? I'll get a couple pictures out here soon! Good advice to get er' running as is and then go component by component... Not looking to build a show truck just a driver. I'm stuck at square one-at engine right now. Does anyone know the firing order of these 6 cylinders? I know the one that is rusted is the one closest to the firewall. If I do manage to break it free what are the chances I can skip a rebuild and get decent compression out of a rusted cylinder...any tricks for emery cloth or wire brush the cylinder in the truck? Is there any method to help my chances of "smoothing" the cyl wall without pulling and bringing to a machinist? Still welcoming ideas of what to bathe it in as I re-visit daily with a BFH and block o' wood. It's got marvel mystery in it now. Buddy tells me he swears by PB blaster and have seen several votes for Kroil. Where can I get Kroil? All your wisdome welcome! Thanks again, Jay :eek: Quote
Young Ed Posted October 29, 2009 Report Posted October 29, 2009 I've heard ATF works great. Cheap enough to try a quart Quote
Merle Coggins Posted October 29, 2009 Report Posted October 29, 2009 I've had good luck with Marvel Mystery Oil, and I've used PB Blaster on many occasions. If you get it freed up you may get lucky by getting it to it's lowest position and use a ball hone to clean up the cylinder. It won't get the pits out, but may clean it up enough to try. However, the rings may be stuck too. And you may also find some stuck valves. These can also make the engine hard to turn over depending on how hard they're stuck. Cylinder order = #1 at the radiator end, #6 at the firewall end. Firing order = 1,5,3,6,2,4 Quote
Charles Furman Posted October 30, 2009 Report Posted October 30, 2009 Aero Kroil is by far the best penetrating oil that exists. Just spray it, let it sit, spray it, let it sit, etc. Be patient...it really works. Go to www.kanolabs.com Good luck Quote
jmooner3 Posted October 30, 2009 Author Report Posted October 30, 2009 I filled the cyl with PB blaster this morning and just ordered the Kroil...I'll make a cocktail this old desoto block likes or die trying! As for the honing of cyl in the truck, provided I do get the cyl to move, any tricks to running a hone in the cyl? It is #6 cyl right against the firwall, I saw some 3-stone hones for sale for ~$30. I suspect you run them on a drill, low speed? I finally got around to snapping a couple pix of the truck. Any idea what the hood ornements are from on this thing? I think it was supposed to have the ram not these two pointers, holes are leaded in on the center of the hood. Anyone got a cheap hood ornement in decent shape for sale? Quote
jmooner3 Posted October 30, 2009 Author Report Posted October 30, 2009 TownWagon - Thanks for the insight, the number on the tag is indeed 9237064, B1B 108...The motor is a Desoto, could the tag number be from something other than a 48/49 Dodge? The hood has two points instead of the ram any indicator there? Quote
townwagon Posted October 30, 2009 Report Posted October 30, 2009 And your pictures show the correct grill, and other parts for a 1949 B-1. Maybe your truck is less put together from parts then you think it is. An early 1949 B-1 is going to have the 4712 body tag, a 35-0-35 AMPS gauge, and those grill bars. Next step is to check the frame, if it has the same numbers then your truck may be more original than you think. As for the hood ornaments, they are not correct. Don't know what they are from, but not a Dodge truck. Looks you you are getting closer to figuring out what you have, and your engine does not look to awful bad inside. I have made worse run in the past. Lots and lots and lots and lots of soaking are in your future. Also maybe try some soft object to clear out anything larger? Maybe a brass brush, or a plastic scraper? Once you get the pistons moving you should hone the cylinders anyway, so as long as you don't make a deep scratch in anything you should be okay. Good luck, Eric Quote
MBF Posted November 1, 2009 Report Posted November 1, 2009 Nice looking truck. I'd go easy on the honing-you only want to clean up the cylinder-it's easy to get carried away with a hone. Check for scoring or marks left by a broken ring. (vertical lines in the cylinder bore) You're also going to have to be careful with what happens with the honing oil. If your rings are stuck and that gets down into the pan and gets pumped through the system you'll have even more problems. I've never been a fan of honing with the piston in the cylinder just for that reason. Good luck-keep us posted. Mike Quote
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