kencombs Posted September 30, 2009 Report Posted September 30, 2009 Has anyone attempted that on a 230/218 engine? I've seen one on the web, but the oil line size looked way too small to me. Thinking about building up a spare engine for my truck. A full flow system with modern detergent oil would be a great improvement I think. Post ideas/pics or any info you might have please. Quote
TodFitch Posted September 30, 2009 Report Posted September 30, 2009 The block is not designed for it. So the modification would have to be done on or near the oil pump. I personally feel that a bypass system with a bypass filter with depth type media is more than sufficient. Quote
kencombs Posted September 30, 2009 Author Report Posted September 30, 2009 Well, I just disassembled a 230 industrial engine. Don't know what it was used in but, judging from the lack of cylinder wear (on a .060 overbore) it had VERY low hours. The crank was .010/.010 and shows a lot of wear, much more than the cylinder condition would indicate. The oil looks as if it had never been changed! Now I know that frequent changes would help, but still, fully filtered oil has been the production standard for many, many years. And probably for very good reason. On my Mitsubishi diesel truck, they even filter the oil to the bearings and that bypassed through the pressure relief separately. So that no oil ever goes from the pump to the pan without a pass through the filter. Even Chevy stovebolts got full flow filtering for heavy duty use in trucks (later production 261s). The one conversion I saw used a plug in the block between the pump output and the passage to the oil tube. He then drilled two holes in the block, one on each side of the plug. The problem I see with that, is that the hole and hose sizes are constrained by the available block space to drill. Quote
grey beard Posted September 30, 2009 Report Posted September 30, 2009 Ken, Another guy on this forum - back a year or so - used a MoPar oil pump that had a pressure regulator port in the side. Methinks this was Marty Bose. He plumbed a lint into this port for his frilter and then went through an external pressure regulator, and thence into his block where the original pressure relief valve was. He had to plug two holes inside the block at the pressure relief area, so this mod could only be accomplished with the engine out on a stand, if I understand correctly. Nice thing about his system was the large diameter lines - lots of flow there, at least as much as the original oil delivery system provided. You might find his particulars in a "full flow" search. Haven't tried this myself. Quote
55 Fargo Posted September 30, 2009 Report Posted September 30, 2009 (edited) Here is a pic of my 251 in parts car, this engine wil eventuall y be rebuilt, and go into my coupe. Head shaved, block decked, dual exhaust cam gind a little wilder than stock, and 2 bbl carb....someday I hope This engine has full flow oil filtration, the vavlves are clean, no suludge in ther or oil pan, rebuilt in 1956 bearings all standrad .030 over pistons, and /or rings. Good chance the full flow filtration cut down on the wear. even now there is no cylinder ridge on top. Chrsyler recommended far more oil changes with th b-pass system to compensate or les filtration. I thik for the majority of the guys on here by-pass shoyld be fine with plenty of oil/filter changes, lets face it 90% o the engines will be light use, and not real heavy use, as maybe 10 % of the guys will do.......Fred Oil and Filter Change Specs as per Chrysler Corp By- Pass system -Oil Change interval Temps under 32 f + 1500 to 200 miles under normal conditions Temps above 32 f, every 2500 to 3000 miles under normal operating conditions Filter change every 8000 miles, or sooner under dusty conditions, if oil appears very dirty Full Flow Filtration system oil and filter change intervals every 5000 miles, unless oil is excessively dirt, or when conditons are ont normal usage. This makes sense, the by-pass filter will last longer, but the oil needs to be changed more often. The full flow filtration does a better job, so the oil change interval is longer, which makes sense also. Another item is an open crankcase ventilation system, whilea PCV will be much healtheri for the engine, dusty conditions also make it necessary to change oil a lot more often..... Edited September 30, 2009 by Rockwood Quote
james curl Posted September 30, 2009 Report Posted September 30, 2009 (edited) Do a search for posts from, Richie Hodges, he converted his 48 P-15 to full flow some years ago by drilling and tapping two holes in the outlet side of the oil pump boss on the engine. He then enlarged the outlet hole diameter just past the first hole, then installed a welch plug to force the oil out of the first hole and through a remote oil filter then back to the hole nearest the engine block. Lou in Georgia has his brothers P-15 with the dual 6/12 volt, dual battery, and air conditioned. I do not know if they converted it also. I think Richie has sold his P-15 and now has two Hudsons. He used 90 degree female tube fittings in the block which does not require much room to install as the two holes are close to each other. I do not know if Richie still lurks on this site or not, if he does perhaps he will chime in. Tim and Don both have seen the installation. The nice thing about this system is 100 percent of the oil is filtered before it returns to the engine unless the oil filter by pass opens in extremely cold weather. Edited September 30, 2009 by james curl additional thought Quote
Olddaddy Posted September 30, 2009 Report Posted September 30, 2009 The Richie Hodge method is the way to go. I've seen a similar setup on a Power Wagon that runs in the California desert. The fitting run to a remote spinoff filter, very nice setup. I have pictures somewhere that I'll try to find and post. Quote
kencombs Posted October 1, 2009 Author Report Posted October 1, 2009 I searched for posts by Mr.Hodges and got no hits. Maybe he used another ID? Quote
Rollie��� Posted October 1, 2009 Report Posted October 1, 2009 http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/member.php?u=37 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 1, 2009 Report Posted October 1, 2009 I searched for posts by Mr.Hodges and got no hits. Maybe he used another ID? Mr Richie has sold the Plymouth a bit back...he has moved to the Hudson world of old cars. I still am in contact with him often by phone or e-mail. His car is now owned by a gentleman named Gus. Gus has RSVP'd for the get together this Halloween and will have the car in question at my house then. I did not get close up pictures of the car when it was at my house the last time..seems this may be something I should do this coming event. I will call Richie and ask him to visit the site and possibily detail his conversion. Quote
Richie Hodge Posted October 2, 2009 Report Posted October 2, 2009 Mr Richie has sold the Plymouth a bit back...he has moved to the Hudson world of old cars. I still am in contact with him often by phone or e-mail. His car is now owned by a gentleman named Gus. Gus has RSVP'd for the get together this Halloween and will have the car in question at my house then. I did not get close up pictures of the car when it was at my house the last time..seems this may be something I should do this coming event. I will call Richie and ask him to visit the site and possibily detail his conversion. Hey guys, Tim asked me to shed some light here on the full flow spin-on oil filter system I installed on my 218 engine. I have some pics of the mods I did that are hiding in a folder somewhere on my computer. I will find them asap and post here if I remember how. This conversion actually is fairly easy to do as long as the engine is out of the car. I did nothing with the oil pressure regulator and I left the original by-pass filter in place and functional. I can describe what I did a little better with a pic as reference. I'll be back. Richie. Quote
martybose Posted October 2, 2009 Report Posted October 2, 2009 (edited) Ken,Another guy on this forum - back a year or so - used a MoPar oil pump that had a pressure regulator port in the side. Methinks this was Marty Bose. He plumbed a lint into this port for his frilter and then went through an external pressure regulator, and thence into his block where the original pressure relief valve was. He had to plug two holes inside the block at the pressure relief area, so this mod could only be accomplished with the engine out on a stand, if I understand correctly. Nice thing about his system was the large diameter lines - lots of flow there, at least as much as the original oil delivery system provided. You might find his particulars in a "full flow" search. Haven't tried this myself. While my version has some other advantages that I like, I'll admit that if Richie's modification had been documented earlier I probably would have gone that route. Marty Edited October 2, 2009 by martybose poor syntax! Quote
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