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where to buy a generator?


michael.warshaw

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Mike, I do not want to start another contentious thread, but when you first posted that you thought your generator was bad, I suggested a very simple test straight fromm the service manual, was this test performed? You said in a later post that you technician, removed the generator. What did he do? Did he test the ooutput. Did he check the condition fo the generator brushes (easily replaceable, and inexpensive) He has apparently convinced you you need a new one, but if it were me I would like to know that the one I have is definately no repairable. The field coils on these units generally never fail unless the generator has overheated due to a failed Voltage Regulator. But this is usually easily seen due to splattered solder inside the body of the unit. The only other trouble that is common is the bushing or bearing supporting the armeture. Again readily available and inexpensive.

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the dash guage is just that..an indicator and is not totally accurate..as for the generator reading like it is doing nothing till you rev it..that is correct..though the demand is high the RPM is not suffiecient at idle to meet the demand ..at times this will result in a negative indication and also can been see at idle at night with lights and other accessries running..then when rev'd..the output will increase to overcome the actual amperage used at idle to support the ignition etc and then has surplus to indicate current flow back to the battery for recharge...now if you are depending on the dash amp guage to status this circuit and making your calls from there..you will be in error..the only true method is a shunted meter to test the gen/reg at any given speed and load....if you or your mechanic has not performed this test with a shunt and load meter..you are still just guessing...the battery can be ruled out by reading the specific gravity, also a test that needs be done..if sealed battery, the seller of your battery should also have a test/load station for testing the capacity of your battery and should be returned to them if there is question of its ability to maintain a charge.

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Mike:

If you are worried that you do not have enough amps then you might think about converting the car over to a 6v alternator either a 1 wire or a three wire unit.

If you are creating a driver and willbe taking on long trips and will be having alot of accessoried then this is the way to go.

There is a company and you will have to search the web that converts your old generator into an alternator. This is expensive but if you are trying to keep a stock looking car then you might consider this route also.

Please let the group know what you are planning for the car so we can provide you with possible answers to your questions.

rich hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

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any good auto electrical shop should have the capabilities to repair this unit to as new condition for a reasonable sum...the shop and garages do not have the proper testers, experience or parts on hand to support this job. By bad, what is wrong precisely, to make a call of that nature it is surely based on some testing..is it is the brushes/brush holders, communtator needs dressed and under cut or possibily shot due to "leading" which is a high current condition, are the fields open or shorted, bushing/bearing beyond reasonable use, based on the earlier post of "rev'ed and output is 35 amps" is not an indication of a bad generator...by now you should well have recieved your repair manual that you ordered...have you followed the testing per the section on the generator..or your mechanic seen this book..your posts are contradicting your every entry it seems to the point no one here can really follow along...

last time you asked this question about finding a generator, there was three on E-bay...evidently you did not bid high enough..

Edited by Tim Adams
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the one on ebay, the guy said he wasnt wsure it was for my car, so i stayed away.

probably wise that you did, however, if you find one and it is correct for your car by all assurances by the seller and upon arrival it does not fix your car..what then? your gas guage is still in-op but new...just curious..

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guess that is an improvement over the original indication of 1/4 tank and bouncing..

when the fuel tank is full and the indicationis onlly 3/4 full ..check to see if #2 wire is grounded somewhere along the body between the guage and the sender unit...

as an added note to help you trouble shoot factory states that the entry of the wires into the A-post below the dash to run overhead is particulary susceptable to scuffing and given the age, the brittleness of the rubber coating can really give you a headache here and at the rear in the vicinity of the rear quarter glass garnish, it is also know that the screws can and will short the wires..shooting the wires for proper opertion is a must..with the unit on and a test light inline bwtween wire #1 at the sender and ground should flash off and off same with wire #2 when tested in this manner..if not then the condition of the wire can be open or shorted as the light cannot detect this contion only the lack of power..the ohm meter is needed at this time to make the proper call.

Edited by Tim Adams
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