Bloody door lock cylinder set screw

[Thomba48]

Having checked the forum I have noticed that this bloody set screw has been discussed already intensively. I am simply hoping that somebody might have come up with a new approach since then on how to get it out - TNT?

Well - no surprise: I need to replace both lock cylinders and have been working on getting this damn set screws out for hours. The standard way unfortunately is no option as no screwdriver of any shape or form was able to get a grip. I then went down the drilling route, invested already a few bucks in drillers that simply just - - - well broke, created small scratches on the surface of the screw or simply just did nothing.

Again - any additional inspiration beyond "cutting it out" as the door and the paint job is in a far too good shape to be distroyed.

Thanks again Thom

[Young Ed]

I just drilled mine out. However after that I went to tap it for the new screw and the tap broke in the hole. So I've been working on drilling that out now. PITA!!

[Thomba48]

Well I went down to my local DIY store rather equivalent to your Home Depot Store and went through a whole lot of drillers (in terms of sizes, qualities etc.). There really isn't anything left that I could try out!

So what is the secret :-) of your drillers?

Thom

[Plymouthy Adams]

have you access to a carbide bit?

[Young Ed]

I was using snap on left twist bits with the hope that they would bite in and thread out the remnants of the screw as I was drilling. No such luck.

[Joe Flanagan]

I've had a lot of luck with what Ed tried. Left hand twist. Buy a handful of them.

[Thomba48]

Nope - my screws doesn't like left turning activities either. You must know it is a very special, unique screw. I really beginning to believe that there is something behind that screw looking at me and laughing: Get me, get me - no luck!!!

thom

[Joe Flanagan]

So the drill bit won't cut into the screw?

[Thomba48]

No -nothing happens: I am literally talking about 2 hrs. of drilling with a whole lot of different really good drillers. I have sofar managed to scratch the surface, I have managed to somehow get inside this amazing material but . . .

I guess they had some steel left-overs from the tank production!!!

[Plymouthy Adams]

can you get your hands on a carbide tipped bit...do not use the drill motor on high speed (motor on always) instead, good drill bit, lube, ample pressure and short bursts of the drill motor..high speed bit with constant motor on against the hardened steel of the set screw..equals a quickly melted bit tip...

[Thomba48]

Carbide - I need to investigate. Wouldn't know of heart if they are readily available on the "open" market over here!

thanks for this advice

[randroid]

Thomba48,

A half-liter of Erdinger Hefeweisen Dunkle always works for me. The finest sanity restorative I've ever found, and it's only about thirty miles north of you!

I used a nut remover (sort of a reverse 'Easy Out') on mine and removed a square inch of the metal around it in the process. Fortunately my neighbor is a welder and has offered to fix it for me.

Good luck, because everybody has trouble with that screw.

-Randy

[Norm's Coupe]

Do like Tim said. Go slow with the drilling. If a 3/8's drill, only let go about 400 to 600 RPM instead of pulling the trigger switch all the way on. If you have a half inch drill, use it because they only run between about 400 to 800 RPM top speed. Anything faster and you'll dull the bit like Tim said and not do anything but maybe scratch the surface. Slow and steady is the word.

[busycoupe]

I removed lock cylinders from a 48 D24 that was on its way to the crusher. I wasn't concerned about the doors, so I simply used a flat bladed screwdriver and bent back the metal tab that holds the set screw. The lock cylinders slid right out. I didn't try it at the time, but I wondered if the tabs could be pushed back into place to hold the lock again. Has anyone tried this approach? I know that metal will fatigue and eventually break, but it may survive one bend and return, especially if the tab is lifted only enough to slide the lock out.

[busycoupe]

Shel,

The set screw does tighten up against the lock body, but in the 4 door, the piece that the screw is threaded through is a tab cut into the door sheet metal. I was able to reach into it with a thin screwdriver and pry it up. I don't remember if the access was from the edge of the door, or through a hole on the inside of the door.

Dave

[Plymouthy Adams]

Shel..for models that have the slide latch this is the approach..not sure when Mopar went to this but it is as found on my 51/52 Plymouth..when the slide style is encounter, it is the removal process to pull to the opening and to latch, push toward the lock cylinder. This is done through a hole in the door jamb..

[Young Ed]

I think that started in 49. Ive wondered why one couldnt convert the 46-48 locks to that. If I can't fix my set screw hole I might have to be the first.

[woodscavenger]

On my truck I can access the screw through a hole in the end of the door (mine was also frozen) but there it a hole in the inside of the door that I can see the end of the pin attached to the cylinder. I needed my door latch mechanism out so I put a metal rod in there and smacked it with a hammer and the cylinder popped right out. I still have to deal with the screw but I can do that later.

[RobertKB]

On my '38 Chrysler I ruined the set screw that holds the lock (only one lock in a '38 on the passenger door) in place buy over-drilling it. I got a suggestion given to me by my body man who said drill the hole a little bigger and with the lock out use a mollie (that's what I call them). It goes through the hole and as you tighten the screw up it collapses the cage it is in and tightens it up against the door and this allows you to tighten the bolt against the lock. Measure carefully and cut the head off the bolt and using a hacksaw cut a slot in the bolt and use a small screwdrive to retighten the bolt against the lock. Worked like a charm for me. I will see if I can find the spare one I have and attach a picture.

After looking at the fastener I must have put it through the hole I drilled (just big enough to fit the cage) first as you want the ring on the outside of the door. Put the bolt in the cage from inside the door. With a screwdriver tighten it as much as you can which collapses the cage tightly to the door. Remove the bolt and then put it in from the outside until it is good and tight against the lock. Decide how much to cut off, slot the end and retighten. Almost looks like it is original. My '38 is black and I just touched it up with gloss black paint and it was done. Make sure on the inside of the door that you have removed all of the remaining original material so the cage collapses cleanly against the door. Hope this helps.

Edited May 30, 2009 by RobertKB
Add picture and info

[Thomba48]

Went down the carbide rout - and it really worked. thanks for the help

[Thomba48]

By the way - carbide really worked for me in the end. Thanks again

[Joe Flanagan]

Glad it worked. Did you drill the whole thing out?

[Thomba48]

Yes the whole thing - funny enough: the screw still remained a certain "dignity" by remaining "alive" until the last moment. What a bugger!

[P-12 Tommy]

:DJust for the heck of it, does anybody know why there is only one outside door lock on the passenger side? Is it a safety feature? I found out one reason. I want to know if anybody else has the same answer as I do. Tom

[Plymouthy Adams]

in the day one must park against the curb in the direction of travel..thus the passenger side faced the curb..the driver was required to exit to the curb..thus the need for a single lock and the location of the lock