leaking radiator

[DutchEdwin]

I discovered that my radiator was leaking.

According to the radiator shop repair is impossible with an old radiator because the material is to soft to solder it with silver.

To shop told me it is leaking in several places. Exchange of the radiator core is posible but expencive, about €900,- = $1170,-

He told me this is because the core is a honeycomb type. It is essential to use this type again because newer type does not cool enough for older cars.

My car is described below.

I have two questions:

1) Is it posible to do it yourselve with tin?

2) is there anyone who knows where to by honeycomb radiators (is the cooling story is correct.

[Andydodge]

Dutch.......what type of car is it?........a good modern 2-3 row core in the size of the original mopar radiator will cool the old side valve six, without a problem, I have a late model 3 row radiator with custom made top & bottom tanks in my 1940 Dodge and it cools the 318 V8 fine........I think your radiator shop needs to be changed......find another shop.....lol.......andyd

[Andydodge]

Dutch...is the radiator from your wagon?.......if so then just get a modern radiator made up.........easy fixed....andyd

[n1gzd_plymouth]

Dutch.......what type of car is it?........a good modern 2-3 row core in the size of the original mopar radiator will cool the old side valve six, without a problem, I have a late model 3 row radiator with custom made top & bottom tanks in my 1940 Dodge and it cools the 318 V8 fine........I think your radiator shop needs to be changed......find another shop.....lol.......andyd

This is exactly what I just did with my old 36 Plymouth radiator. I was quoted two prices, one for modern core and one for honeycomb. Honeycomb was $50 more. I decide to go with modern core. I was charged $550. The price that you quoted seems to high.

Rebecca

[Young Ed]

And his claim that they can't be fixed it BS too. I had 2 done for my plymouth and my truck one was done once too.

[radioguy7]

I recently had the radiator for my 55 cadillac repaired with no problem too. Find another shop

[greg g]

How bad are the leaks??? Have you tried any of the sealers that are available??? Don't know what shipping would be but check the Radiator Barn.com, you can match up a radiator by size and out let inlet position.

Take a look at something from a v8 mid 60's mustang or early ford f 150.

You might need to fab up spme mounting hardware but you should be able to find something that will work. You might also want to check the Forward look web site to see if someone there has used a modern transplant. But I would throw some bars leak or alumna seal for a quick fix.

[DutchEdwin]

The radiator is for my 1955 wagon-> V8 259 Cu.In.

As I plan to tow a little caravan in the future (about 1000kg=2000lbs) I do need a good radiator.

I know the repair for a radiator core is expencive if I change the honeycomb. But that much???? Other then in the US I think they are not that available anymore and are hand-made.

But....If |I want to go as original as posible...meaning the global looks are the outer dimensions are about the same as the original, where can you buy one.

any suggestions?

[DutchEdwin]

And his claim that they can't be fixed it BS too. I had 2 done for my plymouth and my truck one was done once too.

Ed, trying to understand what you are saying....do you mean that an old radiator form the 50 can be soldered to close the leak?

The shop told me the leak was at several places in the middel row (one row is about 2 inches wide I think). They told me they cannot do it because they use silver. The silver has a too high melting point in relation to the honeycomb material.

[Young Ed]

It should be able to be repaired. Several shops here have done the radiators for Dads 40 and 64 plymouths my 46 and 48 dodge and plymouth etc. Here's a good example. Dads 40 plymouth pickup radiator was redone by a shop leak tested repainted boiled out etc. Before installing it he knocked it over against the lift pad on his air lift jack. Put a ding right smack in the middle of the core. The shop tested it again and it had caused a leak. They were able to repair that.

[Norm's Coupe]

Edwin,

I would stay away from the stop leak stuff like Bars, etc. A shop put some of that in my wife's 90 Sundance just before I sold it. I didn't even get it home before it was leaking again. So.......I ended up buying a new radiator anyway the next day. Plus, in my opinion that stuff could get into the rest of the cooling system and stop something else up, besides the leak.

As for that shop saying they couldn't repair your radiator, it's probably because they don't have anyone that knows how to repair the old ones. Or.........they don't want to use silver because of the hazards associated with it. Before buying a new radiator, you might want to check around your area for an old time radiator repair shop. They could probably fix it up for you.

[DutchEdwin]

THanks all for the answers.

I'll let you know how it worked out.

The way I'm going....

I do not use stop leak stuff or a raw egg (yes it will do the trick for a couple of miles). I agree with Norm, you do not know what else it will plug off.

For I want my car as original as posible I will try to stick to the honeycomb if possible. So I'll look for an other shop that can repair it.

In the mean time look for an other one in the US, used or NOS.

Only if al does not go well I'll look for one with a modern core that will have the same dimensions as mine. But I only go this way if I cannot find a good one or cheaper repair.

[DutchEdwin]

I promised to let you know how I went on with my radiator.

I went to the radiator shop to see for myself. They did try to solder it but stopped because after two leaks, two more appeared just next to the soldered spot.

They did put in into the water bin for me to look for my self. The radiator was leaking at 3 spots, after 5 minutes it was leaking at 5. Even big leaks among them. The shop did comment....probably the previous owner did put stop leak stuff. This will make it harder or even impossible to solder the leaks. The material could have damaged this old radiator over time because the old material is not resistant to the some what aggressive substance that will stop the leak.

I called a radiator factory in my neighbourhood who does radiators for cars and trucks and specials for racing. It is possible to built in a truck radiator that will have about the same cooling as the honey comb type.

So I had two options. Go original, or modern. Both ways a radiator block had to be soldered into the original radiator as a type that would fit does not exist.

For the price only being €100 less for the original, I took the honey comb type.

Price is high but it will be fixed in two weeks.

[Norm's Coupe]

Edwin,

Glad to hear you were able to get a suitable radiator locally. At least this way you'll be back on the road again soon.

[BobT-47P15]

Those tubes in radiator cores do get weak after a period of years.

My favorite local radiator guy had to close off two or three tubes in the

center of the radiator on my 1967 Ford several years back. Finally, it got

to the point that I bought a new core, and they used the original top and

bottom tanks.

Glad you found a suitable fix, Edwin.

As you know, some things on these old cars just can't be fixed cheaply.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Dutch..silver is not the correct media to repair radiator..unless of course it was stainless steel...the correct material will be solder and should be easily accomplished...does you shop try to over braze these units? or are they using hand tools/torches? I have successfully repaired slpit tube on a picnic table at state parks using a propne torch bought from the hardware store across the street....when you be 300 miles from home..you make a go of it..by the way..never touched that rad again..car was eventually totaled about 5 years later...