Changing front engine mount - how do you get at it?????

[Young Ed]

I'm a little confused now. Which piece are you drilling holes in? Aren't there extra holes already from the previous mount?

[n1gzd_plymouth]

The rubber mount from the 36 plymouth has different hardware spacing than the rubber mount for the 52 plymouth (both ends).

I have the engine support from the 36 chassis but I have a 52 engine. It is a miss match. there are two choices of rubber engine mount. One that fits the 52 engine and later support bracket (the u shaped one) and one that fits the 36 egine and it's support bracket (o shaped). I have a mismatched pair. I have decided not to modify the engine side since the mount that matches the later engines is still manufactured. Instead I am going to either modify the hole spacing in my support bracket or switch to the support bracket that matches my engine (U shaped).

Rebecca

[Plymouthy Adams]

we've cut enough bait here..time to fish...

[steveplym]

The rubber mount from the 36 plymouth has different hardware spacing than the rubber mount for the 52 plymouth (both ends).

I have the engine support from the 36 chassis but I have a 52 engine. It is a miss match. there are two choices of rubber engine mount. One that fits the 52 engine and later support bracket (the u shaped one) and one that fits the 36 egine and it's support bracket (o shaped). I have a mismatched pair. I have decided not to modify the engine side since the mount that matches the later engines is still manufactured. Instead I am going to either modify the hole spacing in my support bracket or switch to the support bracket that matches my engine (U shaped).

Rebecca

Rebecca,

I've checked and the extra bracket I have is from a '36 Plymouth. So it is the same as you have. So that would not solve your problem.

Looks like you are on the right track though. Good luck.

[n1gzd_plymouth]

Thanks for checking.

Rebecca

[n1gzd_plymouth]

Well, I replaced the front engine mount. A little bit of a hack job (had to drill holes in more places than I needed). I also ended up using an NOS 36 mount instead of the new mount for later models. Here is a summary of what I did and a few pictures.

First of all, it is difficult to remove the engine support brace (mine is "0" shaped not "U" shaped). However, it is a puzzle that is solvable and I did figure out how to remove it (but not until I had already drilled the holes).

Anyway, I drilled new holes on the chassis side and installed the new rubber mount. Unfortuantely, it turns out that it is not possible to install it because there is not enough clearance. This explains the difference in the design between the new one and the older design. the older one does not have studs facing the engine side because there is not clearance to slide it in.

I ended up instead using an NOS 36 rubber mount that I got off ebay. I then had to drill different holes on the engine side. I will keep the newer mount incase I decide to swap parts on the chassis side some day.

Here are a few pictures.

Rebecca

[n1gzd_plymouth]

one more showing the older mount that I ended up having to use:

[sorensen_dk]

Rebecca, when changing the front mount on my 38 Dodge (same setup as yours) I had clearance problems and had to shorten the top bolts on to get the support bracket back in place. Later I noticed that the top bolts on the original mount also had been shortened.

One more thing to consider: I had to add shims under the support bracket where it mounts to the frame to get the damper pulley aligned to the crank hole. Otherwise I couldn’t insert the crank.

Good luck,

Tom

[n1gzd_plymouth]

Rebecca, when changing the front mount on my 38 Dodge (same setup as yours) I had clearance problems and had to shorten the top bolts on to get the support bracket back in place. Later I noticed that the top bolts on the original mount also had been shortened.

One more thing to consider: I had to add shims under the support bracket where it mounts to the frame to get the damper pulley aligned to the crank hole. Otherwise I couldn’t insert the crank.

Good luck,

Tom

I assumed that this is why the original mount had no top studs (put bolts in after you slide it in place). I found out the hard way that the newer mount with the top studs would not fit. I did consider shortening them but I decided that drilling different holes on the chassis side and using an NOS 36 mount was better. In retrospect, it might have been better to try what you did. I how have holes for either mount.

Regarding the crank. I did notice that if I wanted to remove the crank pulley I would need to jack up the engine a little to get on the nut. Gaining access with the hand crank did not occur to me. I am not sure if mine lines up well enough. I suspect that I would have the same problem as well. I don't anticipate using the hand crank but eventually I will want to try it or at least try and remove the crank pulley. How thick are your shims, about 1/2 inch?

Rebecca

[sorensen_dk]

As I recall it was more like 1/4 inch. Also, I would strongly recommend that you also replace the rear engine mounts. On my car both were collapsed and one was even an incorrect replacement. Do you have the floating type with an upper and lower rubber cone? If so, it's really important that you have the correct spacer tube. When you torque down the bolts, the tube limits the compression of the rubber. I was lucky the original tubes were still there.

Tom

[n1gzd_plymouth]

As I recall it was more like 1/4 inch. Also, I would strongly recommend that you also replace the rear engine mounts. On my car both were collapsed and one was even an incorrect replacement. Do you have the floating type with an upper and lower rubber cone? If so, it's really important that you have the correct spacer tube. When you torque down the bolts, the tube limits the compression of the rubber. I was lucky the original tubes were still there.

Tom

I did briefly look at mine and they did not look like I expected so I think that I need to spend more time under there investigating. I was expecting to find one mount point that had an upper and lower cone. What I saw when I looked under there was a right and a left mount (about 45 deg to each other). I need to look again incase this was actually something else (I was focusing on the front one at the time).

Hopefully this weekend I can get a chance to take some pictures. I need to get the car higher up first. It is a little hard to see under there but if I wear reading classes and a head lamp it is not too bad. If I get off the creeper I will have more room too.

We have a big auto fleamarket up our way this weekend and I might get side tracked.

Rebecca

[greg g]

Can you share the details of the swap flea market??? Worth the trip from central NY??

[n1gzd_plymouth]

Can you share the details of the swap flea market??? Worth the trip from central NY??

http://www.thompsonspeedway.com/schedules/flea-market.htm

I have never been to this one but my friends tell me it is a good one.

Rebecca

[wiboater]

I just did and engine swap. and the holes on the engine plate that bolts to the engine behind the timing chain cover were the 4-1/2 inch apart spacing. So I just drilled and tapped two 5/16 fine thread holes closer together so it would fit to the older style motor mount. Couldn't you just cut the studs off the newer mounts and tap in two holes so you can use the bolts? 

Edited November 12, 2019 by wiboater
wanted to select notify me