frame care question

[Don Jordan]

I probably shouldn't be asking this here - I hope you won't think less of me - you probably don't actually think of me at all - but I digress

I have a frame (48 Chevy) and I've been cleaning it - 60 years of road yuk. I want to paint it as I go because I'm doing sections at a time.

I remember seeing an undercoating product - it goes on kind of crinkly and apparently ends up hard as a rock.

Anyone have a name, web site or idea on how to protect the frame? I was thinking of putting in new break lines, new gas lines because since I'm down to the frame it would look pretty - of course no one would see it - is that over kill?

Just so I don't get in trouble I do have a Plymouth - but I've belonged to the Vintage Chevrolet Club since 1969.

thanks guys. (btw - are there any women on this forum?)

[Frank Elder]

Chevy or walter, you are treated the same on this forum! You can ask away and not be put in an awkward situation.

I am brand new and have been treated with the greatest of respect. You can't ask for anymore than that. We're all thinking of you. Respectfully yours, Frankie.

[james curl]

You might try Por 15 or similur product from any of the vendors in Hemmings that srll fram coatings. I would think that anything that didn't leave a smooth surface would tend to collect grease and dirt.

[brian hood]

Another good vendor to check would be Eastwood. They have lots of good products.

[Tony Cipponeri]

Hey Don, Break open the piggy bank and have the frame powder coated. If I ever had the guts to take a car down to the frame that is what I would do. Tony C

[oldmopar]

Anyone have a name, web site or idea on how to protect the frame? I was thinking of putting in new break lines, new gas lines because since I'm down to the frame it would look pretty - of course no one would see it - is that over kill?

Just so I don't get in trouble I do have a Plymouth - but I've belonged to the Vintage Chevrolet Club since 1969.

thanks guys. (btw - are there any women on this forum?)

I have used the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and have been satisfied with the product.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1137&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=373&iSubCat=374&iProductID=1137

[Brendan D25]

What model 48 Chevy do you have? A neighbour of mine bought a 48 convertible in 1956. He has passed away but it is still in the family. Brendan.

[Don Jordan]

It's a 5 window pick up. I "rescued" it from a guy that wanted to cut it up and make a hot rod. The type of stuff they already did: He took it to some Mexicans that do good work but aren't real careful. They put carpet on the floor and covered up the brake master cylinder. They welded the air vent shut up by the window. Sort of like the Plymouth's. No idea what they were thinking. And the topper: they welded the front fenders on. I took a pneumatic chisel to get off the fenders without destroying the cab. It's a project. I'm not sure who said it first but "If it ain't broke - don't fix it." I never seem to learn. Every time I tried to do one little thing it started down the road to one big thing.

Powder Coating - that's an idea - but what would it cost? Maybe they could sand blast it. I'll make some calls. When I did my motor cycle I had the frame powder coated - but it wasn't quite as big.

Eastwood - I've heard of them. Thanks for that lead.

I've got a can of stuff in the garage that I've had for 10 years - it came with rubber gloves because you weren't supposed to touch it. I'll look for that.

thanks again

[Don Jordan]

Went on the Eastwood web site - that looks like it should work. $119 a gallon. Would a gallon cover the whole frame? They said you could either brush it on or spray it.

This needs just a little more research.

[Plymouthy Adams]

I agree with not using a wrinkle finish just for the fact of the dirt that will accumlate to it over time. A smooth painted finish shoud be fine...many products that will meet your need..some are more costly than others..the budget you wish to work with will help determine what one to use..

[Don Jordan]

Tim,

Do you know if the Eastwood stuff goes on smooth?

[oldmopar]

Its been a few years since I used it but as I recall it went on smooth. I brushed it on and a gallon should do the frame.

Eastwood does run sales at different times so if you are not in a rush you may be able to get it at a better price

Ed

[Plymouthy Adams]

POR 15..quart will go a long long way..even with a brush this stuff is remarkable in its ability to lay down smooth..Eastwood product I have never used per say..an sure though it will also go on smooth..I just moments ago finished the top of my new gas tank and fill neck, straps etc etc with POR 15..the tanks prefit went well..slight reshape of original staps and nuts was an excellent fit..this tank even had the recessed rolls in the exact place as the original tank so the straps fit like a glove...

[PatS....]

Brightside yacht paint is made for harsh environs as well and is very smooth and shiney. Not sure if it's available in semi-gloss or not.

Picklex 20 is great for neutralizing rust...and it can be painted over.

[krodaddy]

POR 15 is great stuff. I did my frame after sandblasting it and used less than a quart. Brushed it on and it flowed out smooth as glass. Also using it on the suspension parts and fuel tank.

Barry

[cwcars88]

I used Eastwoods (Gloss Chassis Black) on my Model "A" in 1980 and it still looks great. Almost 20,00 miles and driven year round rain or shine.

Wayne

[Don Jordan]

Okay - here's another question on the same theme:

I went on the Eastwood web site and ordered a gallon of their rust stuff for my frame. While I was browsing their catalog I saw a section on sand blasting. I was amazed by all the different media. I feel really stupid now - when I sandblast something I just go to Home Depot and get some industrial SAND. Go figure. I never thought about walnut shells, or glass - can somebody give me a word of wisdom on sandblasting 101.

Again - now that I'm down to the frame I might as well do it right. Walnut shells?

[Plymouthy Adams]

no need for exotic media..if you use a pressure pot like you get at Harbor Freight..you can control both the inlet pressure...and the sand flow..I have no trouble blasting frames or car panels..no overheat etc etc....only the high pressure professional sandblaster really have a trouble with heat and warping..I use .030 grit sand..local sandblaster supply at 3.85 per 50lb bag..recycle until it is dust in the wind...

 

 

Edited May 20, 2017 by Plymouthy Adams

[james curl]

I have read walnut shells make the surface to slick to take paint and you will have to sand all the surfaces afterwards.

[oldmopar]

I have read walnut shells make the surface to slick to take paint and you will have to sand all the surfaces afterwards.

Here is chart that has some suggested use for different media

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1478&itemType=CATEGORY&iMainCat=688&iSubCat=1478

[anthonyb]

You may also want to try your local concrete plant. Ask for Brick Sand. I used to get a 33 gallon trash can full for about $2.00. MAy have to spread it out to dry before shooting it but you really can't beat the price.

[Frank Blackstone]

a 3M mask with 2097 filters. Don't wear clothes in house as the dust contaminates. My grandfather died of silicosis . Before OSHEA. Health conscious, Frank