Los_Control

Whenever I run into extra gasoline like that, I use it as a weed killer out in the alley. Takes very little & dissipates so quickly ... could hardly be called toxic. The oil to make gasoline comes from the ground in the first place. ....... I had a small tree growing at the foundation of my house. I cut it several times, used round up weed killer on it, always came back .... one treatment with gas it is gone & the grass is grown back in. To bad about the canning jars, Seems like every year I need to buy more ..... Getting ready to can a batch of pears soon .... time for more pickles, wife cleaned us out. The generator would be nice to get to someone that would enjoy working on it .... they could learn from it. Put a add on Facebook market place or craigs list. I assume it runs or was running years ago when it was last used .... now needs the fuel system cleaned. You could let them deal with the fuel just leave it alone. Possibly drag it to the end of your driveway & put a free sign on it .... see if it disappears in a few days?

I Dunno, sounds a bit risky to me ..... those screws might have a break in period? I would suggest 2 weeks garage time to let the screws get acclimated ... ?

I was thinking possibly the throw out bearing or pilot shaft bushing because it goes away with the clutch in. U-joint is a very good possibility I feel it is a warning sign, while not bad now .....If you ignore it someday you may need the flat bed truck of shame to haul you home. So asking about it is a good thing, is not normal to make the noise .... Better to figure it out now before it turns into a problem.

Had to go look at mine to see what I see. It is not as nice as yours, been sitting for years needs to be cleaned ..... no idea if it works ..... I bought it used & I do not know what it came out of. The bracket that came with it tells me it probably came from a car. This bracket will reach nowhere on my truck. Thats why I figured would install it & then make the bracket for it. That was a few years ago, now I changed to 12V - ground & probably will not install it.

Just curious does it have a shoulder & lip on the bolt to hold the seat in place while screwing it down? I doubt my 49 would be same as your 46. ! screw to hold chrome bezel on 3 screws to hold headlight ring in place 2 springs 2 screws to hold the headlight base in place & adjust. I just got 1 screw out & was going to check size & saw you found them ..... I was thinking Dang, thats a specialty screw just the size is not enough.... Glad you got it.

They all do .... water gets in the cab & pools there .... they rust out. I have no shame & show crappy work all the time. Here is some scrap 18 gauge that used to be a shelf. Easy enough to fabricate just remember it has a compound bow in it .... top to bottom ... left to right .... it is not flat. It is not easy for me as a inexperienced welder ..... still teaching myself. And it is only tacked in, needs grinding and finish welding .... pin holes everywhere. The reason why I suggest it is a difficult area to weld .... I feel like I want to hammer/dolly the welds as I go ..... you cant reach it ... unless you have 6' arms. Even then you can only get the top seam above the floor, there is no room below the floor. ..... A better welder could do a better job. I have come to the conclusion it will never be a perfect patch & will need filler to fix the boo boo's ..... is covered from the bed nobody will ever see it anyways. Dont be shy, dive in & patch it up.

There is. You can see the stud coming out of the back ..... the bracket is a L shape. Not very big. Bolts to the radio then to the firewall or cowl ... I forget. I had a photo somewhere but not on this machine .... I had no dimensions, my plan was to install the radio then make what was needed to mount the rear.

I've never looked at a 48 seat. I had a 49 in the past, I currently own a confused 49 ..... It is a titled 1949 but it identifies as a 1950 model. This is the seat frame that has the adjustable sliders bolted to a brace welded to the frame. The seat base is brazed to the floor of the cab, there is L shaped metal bolted to the base & the sliders bolt to the L metal. I would only assume the 48 seat would be similar? This post is probably a complete waste of time, it is what I believe is the original factory seat. If yours is not matching, a lot of strange things have been done over the years.

Thanks for the link ..... for whatever reason I ended up ordering from https://cliphouse.com/index.aspx I ordered June 7th, got a thank you for your order right away & nothing from them since then. I tried calling them, you get a recording suggesting to choose 1 or 2 .... sends you to another recording .... impossible to talk to a person. I sent a email & no word from them ... Today I ordered again from the link you provided ..... I hope I have better luck then I got from the cliphouse.

Working the night shift ..... Been so hot lately 110-112F .... between taking care of important household chores .... just no time to work on the truck. So today is 10:00 pm & finally got everything fitting. Oh it is ugly I guarantee that. The floor pan needs to be fully welded exactly where it is. ..... Oh if I had any sort of dignity I would never show that transmission cover without paint ..... oh well. I've also spent hours welding up & patching the toe boards ..... it will be perfectly acceptable when finished, painted, throw some carpet over it. To me this will be a huge step when finished, now will have a floor to lay on while working on the wiring under the dash. Just the thought of being able to sit in a seat & have a actual gas pedal when I move it around the yard is more exciting then I want to share here

I just feel you have a really good chance to replace the rubber cup & make it work. Like my truck, I'm guessing it sat 20 years .... the wheel cylinders were completely junk & frozen .... no way to rebuild them. The master cylinder looked promising. I honed the crap out of it to get it to look decent, put a kit in it ..... I actually got decent brakes from it when I bled the system out. Then as a test I imitated a panic stop & stomped on the pedal ..... blew the rubber cup right out. .... straight to the floor the pedal went. I honed it too much, but I honed as much as I needed to get a good clean bore. ...... I call it a swing & a miss. Strike 2! I just do not think you will have the same issue, I would absolutely 100% have to try throwing a kit in it ..... $15-$20? Good chance it will be better then the offshore replacements ... Or send it off & have it sleeved & rebuilt ..... Less then $150 I think, still better then the off shore replacements imho. Myself I went to a modern dual stage Toyota MC. ..... I'm not looking for original.

It is leaking past the rubber cups ..... The rebuild kit will supply new cups. I would think since you had decent brakes but now leaking .....very possible a new cup will cure it. Depends on the condition of the bore. Has it been rebuilt in the past? .... how many road miles on it ? I would say you have better then 50/50 chance it would work for awhile anyways. .... Maybe with a light hone on the cylinder. But if you take it apart, find the rubber cup failed because the cylinder bore is in such bad shape ..... A new rubber cup wont help. Pull it apart & take a look at it.

I think what I'm not being clear about ..... will the 1953 truck bell housing bolt up to a 331 hemi, a 277 polly or a 360 .... Bob you have the transmission that came with the poly, you know it fits. ..... What about the op truck transmission ..... will it fit? I think when doing a engine swap from some thing other then stock, having a correct transmission or adapter is a big 1rst step. I think on a chebby, you can take a turbo 350 bolt it to a 6 cylinder, move it to a 350 sbc, then move it to a BB 454 ..... But what about a Dodge? .... What engine families do you have to stay with for a 1953 truck 3spd bell housing to bolt to?

I did a Master Cylinder swap on my truck plus new lines .... so I added a T in the line to move my switch to .... it was installed on original MC. I started looking around for the brass adapter to make it work. I quickly realized I may not find the correct adapter to match the threads on the switch. I might need to get 2 adapters to get to correct threads, or buy a new switch with different threads so I can adapt to the 5/16" T .... Or simply go with a mechanical switch & get on with my day.

Here is where you will find him. ....... I think what he does is just wrap it in the clear plastic for shipping. So if there was any rodent infested .... pissed on .... smelly material on it ..... I doubt any of the drivers would want to pick it up & handle it. May actually be a rule from UPS to avoid the issue. ..... He assured me he would have to remove all material from it before shipping. Parts I have bought from him toe board, transmission cover ..... he just wraps them in plastic & sticks a shipping label on it .... fast & easy. https://www.facebook.com/groups/pilothouse Place a wanted add there & you may find what you want? If I get a chance I know someone over on the h.a.m.b. that lives in Eastern WA. His wife had a 49 B1B. I was moving from the Kennewick area & gave him my 49 B1C & a 1952 dodge pickup also a 52 plymouth suburban ...... And a 1959 home made Ford Ranchero I was moving to Texas & not bringing all this crap with me & it needed to be gone. I forget where he said he lived .... like 1/2 way to spokane in some rural area ...... It's possible he might have something he would sell? I do not talk to him very often, when I see him post he has some pretty interesting projects he is working on 1928? Dodge with the old wooden wheels. That was over 5 years ago, I do not know if he still has them. If he would even sell anything if he had them. ..... I know his real name, cant remember the handle he post under. I only remember his avatar photo. Sooo, next time I see them post, iicr, I will ask & figure out a way to get your info to him if he is interested.

@Bob Riding would the original 3spd transmission mount to them? To be honest I have no idea about the bolt patterns for Mopar transmissions. Fords they changed the bolt patterns 6 times a year ..... Chevrolet they were good about keeping them the same for all engines forever. I think that is the real question, what engines will work with the factory 3spd transmission? I think a 218 or 230 would be the only direct bolt in. When installing a V8 it has been done a million times, I often hear about them moving the engine 1" to the passenger side to clear the steering box. I remember a few years ago some one here had a real sexy yellow with black bed truck he daily drove in CA .... He installed a hemi replacing his running driving 6cyl. Think he might have a thread here on it, I cannot remember their name to look it up. ...... Maybe someone here can remember? Have not seen him here for a couple years.

Good looking truck, hope you have good luck getting it running. There are several radiator suppliers who have one that will fit these old dodges. ..... I bought a generic used aluminum radiator for $50, modified the brackets to make it fit ... painted it black. Looks good enough to me and works well. The seat bottom, I assume you mean the springs? ..... Their is a guy on FB Douglass Crozier who parts out these dodges. He told me $80 + shipping. He only ships the bare metal springs & removes all padding & material. So figure in the cost to recover it. I bought a set of bucket seats from a chebby silverado. Good luck keep posting progress

??? ..... exactly what it is .... or from some sort of horn. Just a solid heavy brass trinket I had lying in a junk drawer. I needed to cut the tail off to length, the inside diameter was just right to run a tap through for threads ..... took 15 minutes to make & better then nothing which is what I had. I,m not entirely sold on it though. Couple weeks ago I bought a black plastic shift knob for a 50's chebby truck for $2 from Holley memorial day clearance sale. So when I start installing the seats & working on the interior I will have a choice.

I like that, dress that sexy polished knob up with a extension

Looks great I like it ..... seems odd though with so many threads left under it looking at the picture. Trim the shifter down a bit to remove the extra threads? Drill & tap the knob deeper to use them up? Add a lock nut under it so it actually looks like the threads are needed? Either way I love it, it looks better then mine.

Thats something I've seen done with a tow dolly, but never done myself. I just wonder how well they would handle with the heavy end on the ground & light end on the tongue. Did anyone mention to bring a good come along? You do not want to try to push that beast up the ramps. Always good to be perfectly prepared ..... then nothing happens and all for naught.

U-haul also have some very specific qualifications your truck has to meet in order to rent you a trailer. A friend of mine had a car trailer & pulled it with his 3/4 ton truck all the time. He needed to rent a longer trailer to pull 1 vehicle. The only way they would rent him the trailer, he had to also rent a 1 ton box van to pull it with. ..... Again for liability reasons. My employer went down to rent a bob cat one time. His truck & trailer was fine, but his tie down straps were 3" wide ..... they would not load it unless he rented the 4" straps to tie it down with. Car dolly they do not have as strict of requirements.

I can not offer a opinion on the drive shaft. The tow dolly is a good alternative to a trailer. U-Haul will suggest 55mph to be on the safe side for liability. Here in Texas I often see people use tow dolly. Is common to see some dealer coming from a car auction. They will have a flatbed with one car on it, then using a tow dolly pulling a 2nd car, then a special tow dolly connected to the 2nd car pulling a 3rd car ...... pulling double trailers I guess is the term. They are cruising down the freeway 75 mph with no problems. ...... U-Haul takes good care of their equipment usually ..... you should be fine. The only thing I know about automatic transmissions, you need the engine running to turn the front pump on the transmission to circulate the oil. If only the drive shaft is rotating, not the pump .... then the internals are rotating without proper lubrication.

I remember my most favorite person, my wife Uncle. When he was getting old, in his 80's, his eye sight was going bad ..... Dumbass had cataracts & I tried to convince him to have the surgery ..... he would not. He had a 2 acre property that was his own private wrecking yard of cars from the 40's to the 90's. Even though he could no longer drive, was his greatest pleasure to walk outside & choose what vehicle he wanted to be driven into town in. His son lived with him who was disabled & drove. My favorite stories from Uncle was when he was a teen, he got kicked out of high school .... he would come by in his model A & sneak his girlfriend out of class ... during sports activities or whatever, they would go riding in the country .... she never finished school either. ...... They were married over 55 years before she passed. I never asked my uncle what he & aunt Jenny did on those rides ..... he sure had lots of smiles remembering them though. Those cars are a lifetime of memories.

Could she have taken you for ice cream if you did not prepare the car for her? It's not self serving!