Los_Control

If there is a rubber stop inside the door that would prevent the door from opening as far as it does, that would explain the crease on the door. It literately opens past 90 degrees, the stop is the fender. The arm is in place and connected. .... I have not yet opened the door panels to lubricate and inspect. I had no idea was rubber stop inside to prevent door from opening to far. Today am fussing with the wiring. After charging the new battery, the engine turns over nicely. maybe if it had spark and fuel it would start. Previous owner years ago, wrapped all the cloth wiring harness with black tape. This saved it in a sense, we all know it still needs replaced. He wrapped the 90% easy long runs, I am wrapping the final 10% where it comes out of harness and connected to lights and switches. I think it may be mickey mouse, same time it allows me to connect a battery and check everything. Start it up and yard drive it. Soon will be a cold winter day with the garage doors down, heat on and building a new wiring harness.

I certainly could imagine the fall colors, sorry it did not work out.

We rescued a dog from the local shelter, she is a Ausrailian shepard puppy. Then we also adopted a stray dog. Mix between a blue tick healer and a black lab, been abused, tail cropped and abandoned. The abused dog is a real challenge, I can not pet her .... every morning she will jump on my bed and lick my face, as long as I am not standing she feels safe. It is going slowly, we had her 4 months now, but both dogs are at or about 1 year old. Every morning I get woken up by the two dogs, and I accuse them of hound dogging me, then I give them cookies while my coffee is cooking. They will have front seat when it is time to go for a ride, or to the park or to go chase ducks ..... Will need to make a seat in the back for the wife

I think in my situation, the door hinges are bent, truck rolled backwards and caught the door and not only bent the hinges, it put a crease in the door. Fix would be to straighten the hinges and repair the sheet metal. I picked up a new 6 volt battery today, went to install it after I disconnected the ignition switch, basically only the starter was connected. With only the starter connected, I felt safe to hook up the battery cables. I soon realized that someone before me, connected the battery to negative ground. The post on the battery are different size, the existing cables would only connect backwards to negative ground. Wondering how much damage was done, I ran jumper cables to the starter and I am not even getting a spark. Then I put the battery on a battery charger, it runs 6 amps on 6 volt and it is charging steady at 5 amps, maybe the battery was just dead when they delivered it, charging will help. Kinda a sick feeling in my gut at what all electrics was damaged in the past battery instalation.

What I do for transmissions, it takes a bit of time to set it up so need to be patient, take your time and have a cup of coffee. I did this with a C6 Transmision for my old ford van a couple years ago, this is a big heavy trans. I use 2 pieces of thick plywood, 3/4" is good. They only need to be 16" wide, maybe 24" long? What kind of scrap do you have lying around, if you are on concrete you could get away with one piece. Then you need 3 or 4 short pieces of pipe inbetween the plywood. With the heavy transmision sitting on the plywood you can now roll the trans back and forth easilly. Now you need to start blocking up the trans until you get it to the proper height, then you need to get it set to the exact angle as the motor. When you get it set just right, you can use one finger and push it into place. Do not try to get it close and then horse it in, will knock the trans off the blocks, get frustrated and have to start over. Be patient and take your time, work smart & not hard. Also if you have a bottle jack on the rear of the engine, I used a 2x4 across the oil pan iirc, then you can easily adjust the angle of the engine to match your blocking job. I have done several transmisions like this out in dirt/gravel work areas.

There is a little round eye on the bottom of the toe board straight back in line with linkage

closer look at the front bar's, they are 2 different pieces

Yeah ... this is going to be a issue, such a hard part to get to. My thoughts is heat up the metal, then crawl under with a baseball bat and try to poke it out with the curved wooden bat. We will see what happens, other option is cut a cab corner from another truck and replace. Looking at the rear fender, the cab corner, and the damage on door, it is rubbing on the front fender when you open the door. I am guessing that the driver got out of the truck, had the door open and it rolled backwards, downhill and hit something hard. ... Door and fender seems straight forward to fix, open to ideas on the cab corner. I think is all added on, the curved bar does bolt on or off, then the other bar is welded ... I am going to remove both.

No pictures today, put new tires on her and picked up the items needed to put the cooling system back together .... tomorrow have a apointment in Abiliene, wont be able to work on it at all. One bite at a time is best way to eat a elephant.

You explain it much better then me, when that stuff grabs, it really does grab .... yet there is that chance that it could fail. And if it does fail, you really have a job on your hands fixing the failure. Again I had no idea that por 15 has a specific engine paint out, if it has a chance to fail the same as the frame paint does, myself would steer clear of it. This is a discussion forum, this is just my opinion and worth exactly what you paid for it. Good old fashioned paint seemed to work well for years, easy to work with and easy to repair if have issues.

Not much done today, my disability wears me out and sometimes we just need to take a rest. I did get the broken bolt out and ready to re-install the T-stat housing, I set the front end on blocks and pulled the front wheels .... I have a nice set of 235 75r 15 I pulled off my chevy last week. So I painted the front 2 wheels, tomorrow will get tires swapped. Wife is being very patient with me, in the middle of cleaning up the kitchen, built a hutch and a couple cabinets and painted the walls and the rest of the cabinets .... House was built in 1948 and like to keep it looking old but clean. Parking a 1949 dodge in the driveway is a home improvement to me. But wife is asking me to finish the drawers and doors and paint. So I worked a little bit on that today also, so much for the day off

You look great for your age, your post show you are sharp, dont change a thing. Happy B-day

Maybe it is me then ... I swear that My other 49 the master is on the other side of the cross member and has a acces panel through the floor. That was over at my uncles place, and I know for sure his international is under the floor, think his old chevy is under the floor .... I could be getting these trucks confused. The whole floor was covered with rodents nest, and I wanted to add some fluid to see if they would work ... I spent some time getting everything cleaned up and vaccumed, all the while looking for the cover to the master cylinder ... then realized it was in the front of the cross member DOH! I automatically blamed this on the changes to the 1950 upgrades, not my poor memorry found a photo of my other 49, looks like it is in the same place

Thanks for that. I just remember reading a long thread on the H.A.M.B about por 15, the experiances were all over the place. Like anything, follow directions and then read them again. But when it did fail, it created a mess and was more work then needed to fix .... I will use paint myself. Like gas tank liners, some just love it and never a issue, others follow directions and it falls apart .... I wont use it either. I was not aware that they even made paint specifically for engines. Sure it has different characteristics then frame paint.

Armchair comando here, I have never used por 15. I read that it works pretty good on rusty, non clean metal. It bonds well and looks good. I hear others that have sandblasted their frames clean and applied por 15, and have it peel off in sheets. If you have a clean motor, you may want to do more research before using that product. Something else I have read, why some others will not use it. When applied properly, and if you need to come back and weld on your frame, is like cement trying to clean the area to get a good weld .... just not sure you would want that on a engine.

Only option I have at this time is map gas .... the small yellow propane bottle. Not sure if it will get it cherry red, but still may help. Been soaking it with pb-blaster, and tapping it with a hammer to shock the rust loose and vice grips. But no luck on day 1.

First thing up was cleaning the rats & sqirrel nest out, I removed the seat frame and looking at the floor. It is pretty rough, truck did come with a new floor pan. I spent some time fitting it today, but still not cut out the original pan. Here is the photo of the busted T-stat stud, is soaking in oil but may need some heat.

New project, new post. This is a 1949 B1B, it has a few twist to it. It has a column shift, and the E-brake is mounted under the dash, the brake master cylinder is accessed from under the hood and not from the floor. The serial number on the door jamb ends with a X, so it is a 1949 fitted with the 1950 changes. This truck will need attention just about everywhere, but IMHO, not a bad start. I was told the gentlemasn that owned it since 1970 (acording to title date) died 10 years ago, I suspect the truck has been sitting a few years longer then that. First day I have the cylinders soaking in atf, the end of the day I checked and the engine does turn freely. Someone was attempting to remove T-stat housing and broke one of the bolts, I have no choice but to deal with it now, if I want to start the engine and let it run. Also it has the original brass T-stat, it seems to be stuck open, was full of rust on top of the t-stat and also in the head. The valve in the head to control water to the heater, also completely clogged with crud. I suspect I will have some cooling issues as it is. Also someone removed the wiring to the generator and loosened it, had to tighten it and adjust fan belt to turn it over. Original cloth wiring had some work done to it at some point, basically it needs new wiring, I will have to use jumper cables and hot wire it, to check the motor. To many frayed wires touching metal to install a battery.

I also have to agree, for some reason in the photo they just looked off kilter a bit. The flare seems larger and more pronounced. I talked again to the seller today, to confirm that all was good and everyone was happy. He had a DR's appointment today, he is 68 years old and had some of those red sun spots removed from his skin, as to not cause cancer later. He said he was going to load the truck up in the morning and bring it over, I told him to relax a few days and recover, take your time .... he said would let me know either way, but I may get it tomorrow. He actually has 2 more pilothouses for sale, A 52 3/4 ton flatbed with a 283 and no transmission, and a 1 ton wrecker with the winch removed, has a olds engine with a 4 speed. Curious to talk to him, in person and you never know what may pop up. Like all mopar people, he is a decent interesting person to talk to.

Keep positive thoughts, decide where you want to be in 6 months, 1 year 2 years, and you keep thinking them .... be suprised at the power of thought and even prayer. Your mind will take you where you want to be. I know this sounds stupid, I was told 20 years ago I would need eye surgery and my eyes would only get worse, now I rarely wear my glasses and my eyes are getting better .... power of thought! 1 year ago, I could push a lawnmower for 20 min and had to rest for 1 week, now can push for 1 hour and rest for 1 day.. I am only 56 years old, is the time of my life where I should be raking in the dough using the info I worked all my life for. I am disabled, but I am rebuilding ... sadly at this age, by the time I rebuild it will be time to retire. Keep your head up and keep chugging away!

Looks like it has big truck front fenders, they seem ok in the photo, but I still have stock fenders if needed to be replaced, all in all it looks like a solid candidate to me to rebuild. I still have my 1949 B1C that can use for parts I have a rebuilt 1952 218 A brand new gas tank in the box A rusty hope front disk brake conversion kit This 1949 seems to have 3 on the tree, while I think it should be on the floor, but I have the trans for that also in Molly Rule #1, should never buy anything sight unseen, I know what work to expect in a truck like this, we settled on $1800 and I think he did not get beat up, nor I. I do not expect it to run, but be nice if it does. Simply a much more complete version then Molly is. I believe a member from the H.A.M.B. will be over on the 18th to pickup the suburban and the 1952 parts truck. This leaves me with Molly and all the spare parts I have stashed away to pick up in the spring. Sure am liking Betty from the photos, hope I like her more when delivered and cleaned up.

Why oh why do I feel so dirty, I suppose it was bound to happen sooner or later. Meet Betty, she not here yet, but made a deal with the guy and will be delivered in the next 2 days ... we see https://austin.craigslist.org/cto/d/1949-dodge-pu/6697203880.html 1949 Dodge Pilot HousePu All Original Running when parked 10 yrs ago When Grandad passed Floorpan Rusty & have NEW ONE Speedo & Guages Good Body straight & rust free BED FLOOR WOOD GONE GLASS ALL THERE STRAIGHT BODY MOTOR FREE Good tailgate REPLACED TIRES & ROLLS easy Clean Title

Not posted for awhile, I sure miss Molly and wish she was here. My goal was to go over in September and pick her up. The 1991 chebby I have the ac is broke, when you get to eastern WA the weather is to hot, just waiting for things to cool down. I bought a Forney 190mp welder last week, was on sale at my local Ace hardware. They trying to clean out display models. I did not get the box and instructions, But a great welder for $600. Not even plugged it in yet, but next month when Molly gets here I will want this tool. This week working on the chevy to get it ready for the trip. I mean it always ran well, I pulled the radiator and flushed it, I cleaned and painted the core support. The water pump had some play in the bearing so I replaced it. New T-stat, heater hoses and rad hoses. Was a issue with temp sensor and wiring, replaced it along with the oil pressure sensor. I had a weird issue with ignition, I also changed the dizzy and coil while in there. Just been spending the last week cleaning and painting and replacing old suspect parts. Going to feel pretty comfortable now, driving the 1800 miles one way to go get Molly .... I still plan new tires, brakes look good and I just had new exhaust installed 2 weeks ago. At this point, kinda thinking I will have to buy a trailer here local and haul it there and then back .... when finished put the trailer up for sale. See how it goes. Going to really suck to send some iron to the scrap yard. Have the 51 suburban over there, I need to get rid of it. I also have my 52 parts truck, I want a few parts off of it, but if it would just disapear before I got there .... that would be pretty cool. Otherwise I will pull a few parts and send it to the recycle yard, same with the suburban Wish could find someone in Eastern WA that would want them.

Think modern replacements have come a long way, no idea what the down time is ... We all have a certain level of pain we will endure before moving forward. I will pray for pain free days for ya thanks for confirming this, when I first saw the trailer back in Feb, we were just driving by and instantly at a glance was sure it was pilothouse era. I have been wrong before though Since my 49 is a B1C, would need to stretch the bed or shorten the frame to use it. Current plans are to simply restore it and use it as a utility trailer, may look pretty good being pulled by molly in the future.. Trailer seems pretty well built, am satisfied with the workmanship. Tongue is short and real pita to back up, will jack knife in a blink of a eye. Suppose I will get use to it.

could always wear a kidney belt for that