Bob Riding

My throwout bearing was about that much $ on eBay. In addition, you also get original gooey grease in a waxed paper wrapping! Here's a link, if you don't already have it...Clutch Release Bearing 1946-1963 Plymouth DeSoto Dodge Chrysler I did as @Loren suggested and had my flywheel resurfaced and checked for true, replaced the worn ring gear with NOS and had a local friction shop clean up the clutch and disk, add new springs and give it the once over. Even got to use the original clutch disk. It looks new, everything works as it should and it's quiet.

I did a search for thinner head gaskets a few years ago. Fel Pro and all of the eBay sellers who responded listed their head gaskets for the 23" head at between 0.079 and 0.081 inches thick. I was looking for 0.07 or less to increase compression. Never found one that thin, so I went with a stock copper sandwich gasket.

Here are some photos if the movie film doesn't open...

Here is the proportioning valve. It's stamped PV2-B. I think it's GM.

Just finished installing the clutch pedal and brake pedal. Pressure feels good on both. I was able to find what looked like the correct clutch-fork pullback spring at a local hardware store for $2.89. eBay seller wanted $15 plus $5 shipping! Next, onto installing the proportioning valve on to the chassis, then connect up the brake lines. (I am running disks on the front, drums rear).There are no holes on the new dual master cylinder, so I plan to mount it to the frame below the MC. Any suggestions for mounting brackets? Also, what's the purpose of having multiple size fittings-9/16-18, 1/2-20, 7/16-24, 3/8-24 when all the brake lines are 3/16" diameter? 7806EA8D-2B45-45CE-BF0D-A79A9F714B90.mov

That's the way I've always done it.

I'm installing the clutch on the '52 and purchased what look to be hard nylon clutch pivot bearings from AB. After disassembling the old clutch, the metal bearing halves look good. They don't look like bronze - maybe white metal? The plastic ones are the same, except they have a groove in the back, I assume for lubrication. I know plastics have come a long way in the last few decades, but are they better than the originals, or does it not really matter as this application (clutch pivot) is low-heat and stress? What would you use?

And the finished patchwork of holes is solid again!

This is what I found on my '52 Suburban- looks homemade to me, but probably worked OK as a draft seal. Notice on the backside, how the pedal shafts are not centered, just like yours.

Based on the description by the OP, Old Cars Price Guide suggests between $3,500-$7,800.

Yes, Ryan does a great job. He has purchased smaller bottles for easier transport. I like to support local small businesses (and friends).

I bought a P20 motor from a fellow about 10 years ago-he had it hooked up to a GM transmission in a '50 Plymouth Suburban, but he pulled it, as it didn't have enough power for him. Sold me the engine + Wilcap adapter for $200! I just sold the adapter recently, probably too cheap, at $350.

After my change in plans from running a rebuilt Chrysler 360 in my '52 Suburban to a stock rebuilt 230, I was left with a number of holes in the firewall (that I had made) to help the V8 to fit. My friend Ryan Ballis, who does mobile welding for his livelihood, was able to use TIG to patch them up. We cut the identical firewall section from my parts wagon and he trimmed it to fit then stitched it up. TIG is much different from MIG in that it's quiet (no bacon frying) and slower. The shielding gas is pure argon, and there is no wire feed from the tool, you manually feed it in with your left hand. TIG, which stands for Tungsten Inert Gas, uses a thin pointed tungsten stylus. It's preferred for body panel and sheet metal repairs because of it's lower heat that won't blow through the metal, like MIG can. Very interesting watching Ryan's technique as we could hold a discussion while he worked.

Beautiful! I was just investigating how my '52 Suburban switch worked, and what I would need to do to repair/replace. I can't believe how $$$ an NOS switch sellers wants for their switch parts. I've paid less for entire cars! I'm going to be integrating the original stock switch into a new American Autowire 12 volt + ground wiring harness. Not sure how they will mash together, but I can't imagine that it will be too difficult. Thanks for taking the time to post.

A few years ago, my brother-in-law, who restored old cars in his spare time, was able to get paint from New Jersey much cheaper than what we would pay for here in California. Are there regional differences outside of California or are we uniform with paint requirements nationwide?

I started with a supposedly environmentally friendly paint remover Smart Strip, which worked pretty well considering the cold temps in the shop overnight, and it also smells really good. Good to know about epoxy sticking to anything- what about a primer?

I'm taking apart the dash gauge and radio section of the '51 Suburban, and have been thinking about dash colors and paint. The gauge cluster housing and radio section are made of some kind of pot metal (no rust) and seems like was it painted without primer - a single stage blue, which peels and comes off easily. (possibly a Korean War measure to save material?) The dash itself is obviously stamped steel, which I'm familiar with, but how do you deal with the pot metal? Dr Google doesn't have a definitive answer- some advice is to wash it with degreaser and scuff it up with Scotchbrite. Others swear by products like Krud Kutter which supposedly degreases and etches the metal so as to provide more "bite" for the paint? It's confusing!

My experience is the same as Los_Control's. It doesn't take my user name "Bob Riding". When I use my email address, it goes through the verification run around.

Same issue with me. Can get in with password and logon name, but stopped at verification question.

Better than Google Translate, - yours is understandable. When I try to translate French (I'm working on a 202 Peugeot woodie) into English, I get some very strange words!

Check out our Forum member @keithb7 many videos, including your '53 Chrysler.   1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe

Must be. @keithb7 disassembled one from his '53 Chrysler.

My '40 came with nickel plating on the dash, which I redid. IMO chrome would have looked out of place. Too "bright".

The things I noticed are evolutionary, not revolutionary (like the Airflow) - changing from kingpins to ball joints in '55, wraparound curved glass, increased compression, full flow oil filters, and of course Chrysler's famous turbine car.

Not sure what an M6 box is, but I'd be happy to discuss it with you.