Bob Riding

My mistake- they are all red on the outside! Actually I used the 222 (Low Strength) which is purple. Thanks for the clarification.

Update on my oil pan flattening efforts: I was successful in flattening the oil pan flanges (didn't take much force), then I used Gasgacinch on the pan side and bearing grease on the engine side. I "borrowed" some push pins from my wife's stash, and cut them in half, then pushed them through the gasket ends. I did trim the 2 end gaskets to 1/8" above the surface, as the Gaskets were over 1/2" proud on each side, which seemed too much. Easy-peasy. I then dipped the pan bolts in Locktite Red (the weakest of the brand, apparently), then torqued the to 15 ft lbs. We'll see if I get any leaks.

Yes on the 277 Poly as the wagon I pulled it from was the original 3pd manual (3 on the tree), which I still have. Not sure on the 360.

Great stuff. Can you show us some in-progress pics?

Just ordered one. As you stated, it's important to support our youth in real-world skills, including marketing!

Not sure Freewheeling Tony Smith's daughter is making them anymore. What's the problem with buying one from Summit, Jegs, O'Reilly's, etc.?

Don't forget the wagons...

Turns out that the 218 oil pickup tube is slightly different from the the 230. Chrysler (of course) reused the strainers, as they were the same. Fits great in the rear position. Now to get the pan in shape - flattening out the bolt hole distortions and welding up a pinhole.

The jury has spoken! thanks guys- I have some body hammers and dollies that should work.

here is the torque specs page from my '55-'56 Plymouth manual. 15 ft lbs for the oil pan bolts.

I just got this used oil pan from DCM Classics. It's in good shape except I can't tell if the surface is distorted at each bolt hole or that's the way it was stamped. What do you think?

I've never seen that illustration showing the side pan gaskets on top of the front and rear seals before. I've been butting the side gaskets up against the end seals but leaving 1/2" or so sticking up. Hmmm.

I will PM you.

And overdrives...

No issues from it being a synthetic? I thought we needed to shy away from synthetics, or is that more of a concern with engine oil?

Does it have to be a 201? Many later manifolds will work from 218s, and 230s.

Great topic, and timely for me, as I will be picking up my stock 3 speed from the transmission shop next week. It's from a '56 Suburban- which I assume has synchos in 2nd and 3rd. Because it is 22 years newer than yours, would you stay with GL4? it will be an occasional use wagon, not a daily driver.

Great thread, thanks! yesterday, I was able to find a pickup/strainer from a local yard for $40. Out of a "52 Dodge, so it should be no sweat.

Out of 218 pans. I didn't ask about the pickup. Will do.

In a recent thread @Dodgeb4ya caught that my '56 230 had a front sump oil pan and might have clearance issues in my stock '52 Suburban. Well he was correct (thanks Dodgeb4ya!). I went searching for a rear sump pan from a 218 motor and found one at DCM Classics. They specialize in Dodge truck stuff, which of course overlaps some with our car parts. He has a pan in stock, but not the oil pickup tube and strainer. I asked him if my front oil pickup tube could be rotated to the rear and used with the 218 pan, but he didn't know. Knowing how mother Mopar was with reusing parts from different cars and trucks from different years, I'm hoping it will work, but anyone else done the swap and know for sure?

Check you email in box

Mine is a stock 6 blade fan from a '56 Plymouth Suburban. I believe the '55 and '56 model years had 6 blade fans. Seems like they went back to the 4 blade after '56.

Dennis, Check your past emails from me...

Thanks Go...how are the hats holding up in that brisk German air?

Thanks for the in-depth look at free wheeling. I'm sure that others will benefit from your process and description. Just one question- where does The Freewheeling Tony Smith fit in?