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Found 3 results

  1. Just finished installing the clutch pedal and brake pedal. Pressure feels good on both. I was able to find what looked like the correct clutch-fork pullback spring at a local hardware store for $2.89. eBay seller wanted $15 plus $5 shipping! Next, onto installing the proportioning valve on to the chassis, then connect up the brake lines. (I am running disks on the front, drums rear).There are no holes on the new dual master cylinder, so I plan to mount it to the frame below the MC. Any suggestions for mounting brackets? Also, what's the purpose of having multiple size fittings-9/16-18, 1/2-20, 7/16-24, 3/8-24 when all the brake lines are 3/16" diameter? 7806EA8D-2B45-45CE-BF0D-A79A9F714B90.mov
  2. Not sure if all the linkage parts connection the brake pedal to the master cylinder are assembled correctly the way I have them here. In looking at the diagram found on pg:36 of the P15 Passenger car parts list manual, (pic #2 attached) it shows part #47 (pin) which is the connecting bolt and it appears to be coming in from the left side of the pedal (as I have it positioned here in pics 1 and 3, then the brake pedal return spring clip appears to go on to the pin next between the head of the pin bolt and the actuator rod eye bolt, then through the pedal shaft itself, (that's all that's shown on the diagram), ..next I have a washer then the castle nut..( cotter pin required but not shown ). I took this apart 4-5 months ago, and it was so basic at the time, I thought no need for a pic or sketch,....WRONG !! of course now I can't remember squat....( so before finding the diagram I was trying to insert the bolt from the opposite direction).. So in reference to the diagram shown in pic #2. the parts look to go together as I have them laid out in pic #3.... I do know that when I took this apart there was only a single washer, and now I'm guessing where it was. No washers are shown on the diagram (but they also don't show the castle nut either, course in the picture those parts would be hid behind the pedal shaft itself..... pg:32 of the P15 parts list manual does show the following parts in the master cylinder brake push rod section: 1ea push rod, 1 ea push rod end, 1ea push rod pin/bolt, 1ea hex nut, 1ea WASHER, and 1ea cotter pin.....so it sounds like a single washer is correct for this...and having it located underneath the nut would make the most sense to me. If anyone out there know's for sure or can possible take a look for me to confirm if this layout is correct...It would be most appreciated... Thank you. Steve
  3. I was putting my clutch together last week and decided I needed to do something about the wobbly pedals. My clutch fork was well worn, worse than the bushings (isn't it supposed to be the other way around?) I was also missing a bushing in the bellhousing where the clutch fork right end is supported. I looked at the previous thread postings on here about replacing the pedal bushings, where to get them, etc., and all the threads did not seem to have a final answer about where to find these, which are approx. 3/4" I.D. and 13/16" O.D. I looked at VPW's online catalog and saw they had some clutch fork flange bushings, and also NOS clutch forks. Their NOS Power Wagon clutch fork, part # 561537, $50, matched my fork by the number stamped on it. The NOS fork required a little cleanup but greatly improved the fit of the pedals compared to the old! They also sell NOS clutch fork bushings: Part #'s CC306770 and 50519. I used them for the bellhousing but could also be adapted for the brake pedal if needed - you might have to order two kits. One of the bushings even has the trademark dimpled surface on the inside. These bushings are made of flat material and then formed round, as you can see in the pics, just like the original. Maybe that's why you can't find anybody making bushings today with these specs.
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