Bob Riding

Noted, thanks. Would this voltage reducer also work with my stock 6 volt horns? I know they require enough current that Chrysler used horn relays. Some have said you can just run them on 12 volts, but my '40 wagon's horns are already pretty darn loud on 6 volts.

Is this the one you bought?

You're welcome. I love mine- makes my shop as bright as an operating table!

I'm not sure if mine came with electric or vacuum- I need to sort through my stash of parts (I disassembled the wagon in 2018 so I can't always be sure of what I have) Is this the voltage converter you were talking about? DROK 12V Step Up Converter

I'm been stymied looking for an electric windshield wiper that will fit my '51 Plymouth. Newport Engineering makes an aftermarket system that will fit the '49-'50 Plymouths and Dodges but apparently there were enough changes to the cowl in '51-'52 that it won't fit. The usual suspects (Obsolete Parts, MoparMall) want a pretty penny for NOS stuff. Anyone find a aftermarket setup that will fit? Also, I'm going 12 volts.

Brilliant!

Success! The top of the stainless fill line elbow is a 1/2" or so below the floor. Lots of clearance, Clarence 😁. Now I will be able to remotely supply the dual master without having to disassemble the wagon!

My '40 Dodge had no back seat- just a space with a curtain behind the front seats.

And my version- 1940 Dodge. Fun car to drive.

Moparpro makes a replacement cap Master Cylinder Fill Cap Might give him a call to see if he has or knows what would work.

Mine was actually too far gone to repair (extreme wear on the gear teeth) so I had Lares rebuild it with NOS parts. Not cheap,($600+) but perfect now. Earl Wells is the Shop Mgr and is great to work with.

Very exciting! Because of your high ceilings, I would recommend LED High Bay fixtures for your general lighting, rather that the 4 foot LED tube fixtures. The high bay fixtures are extremely bright, put the light where you need it, and use less energy than fluorescents. I built my shop in '08 and have since switched out my 8 foot industrial fluorescents to LEDs, as they burned out. Here is a good website LED Light Expert that talks about choices: color temperature, CRI (color rendering index), and lumen output (how bright they are). As for task lighting, say over your workbench, the 4 ft LEDs will work just fine. Good luck!

I sent my '56 230 cid motor to Schedler's Engine Rebuilding & Supply, Inc. in Fresno, CA. They quoted me over $5k to do all parts and labor, with a 6 month lead time. This shop is well respected and has been in business since 1959 with Wayne Schedler, the 80 year old son of the founder, running it now. Based on that price, I decided I could do the reassembly myself, so I told them to do what was needed to be within spec, so they: hot tanked the block and head decked the block bored the cylinders .040 (they had been .030 over) supplied new .040 pistons with new pins/bearings, reassembled cut new valve seats and resurfaced valves polished the crank journals installed new cam bearings installed new brass freeze plugs (they didn't like the steel ones from other suppliers) supplied new .040 pistons with new pins/bearings, reassembled The valves, valve guides, tappets, springs, camshaft, crankshaft, and timing chain were all within spec so I reused them. Total cost - $1,108. It took about 2 months. I was very pleased with the quality of their work. I think I was lucky that a lot of the motor was still in good shape from the prior rebuild they did in 2002. I asked Wayne if he remembered working on the motor from their 2002 rebuild and he said "of course-how can you forget a Plymouth flathead?!" I then purchased rings, main and rod bushings, gaskets, etc from Roberts and AB for another $600 or so. Here's a rebuild receipt from 2003. The rebuilder was in the CA Bay Area. I bought the 265 Chrysler and sold it last year from the guy who bought it from the guy who rebuilt it and it had never been run in 20 years! 1954 Chrysler 6 Cylinder Engine Rebuild Invoice.pdf

I saw them, but didn't want the "power" part. How do you like them?

Progress on the build: In anticipation of reinstalling the body onto the frame, I realized that the original opening for access to what used to be the single master cylinder has now moved rearward by about 6 inches. That causes a bit of a dilemma in that the new location is halfway underneath the supporting rib for the floor. As I’m not crazy about the idea having to remove the front seat to check the brake fluid level in my new dual master cylinder, I looked for remote-fill alternatives. The dual master that ECI Hot Rod Brakes and Brackets provided is basically a generic Mustang unit from 1968 to '70. I was surprised that after much searching, none of the biggies, Summit, JEGS, Speedway, etc. had anything that would work. Finally I was able to find one vendor, A Plus Rod and Kustom in Indiana that makes a remote-fill for Mustang underfloor master cylinders. It’s a little pricey, but solves my problem very nicely and is made in the US. I had a nice talk with the sales guy, Andy, and was glad to be supporting a small manufacturing business in the US.

I'd love to see a picture of the switch, if you have it.

Did Chrysler offer the semi-automatic in 1948?

I figured as much. Thanks!

I have an acquaintance with a C38 ('48 Chrysler Windsor with the 25" 251 motor) who needs a distributor. I have a working dizzy from my P22 Plymouth, which of course has the shorter block. From what I've read, distributors changed incrementally through the years, so the advance curve should be a bit better with a later model, but I don't know if they're physically interchangeable?

I had mine rebuilt a few years ago and have it on the bench, waiting to go in the dash. It's nice to be able to adjust the time + or -, before I install it. Have you been able to see how accurately it keeps time?

Are you sure it's not the longer nosed 5/16 fuel line fitting that Chrysler used, post '48? Check out this thread Fuel Tank Questions ('50 Dodge Coronet D34)

Glad to help.

According to the November 2024 Old Cars Weekly Price Guide, if: it was in #3 (Very Good) condition, “Completely operable original or older restoration showing wear. Also a good amateur restoration, all presentable and serviceable inside and out. A 20 footer, where at 20 feet it looks perfect, but closer inspection might show thin paint, wear on the upholstery, etc. Their average listed value from recent sales was $14,850. If it was in #2 condition (Fine), which they define as “Well restored or a combination of superior restoration and excellent original. Also an extremely well-maintained original showing minimal wear. They place a value based on recent sales of $25,200. Good looking car.

You could also go rack and pinion, but that's a whole different level of fun and fabrication

I think you're right. Tom Langdon has either completely or partially retired.