Bob Riding

Here's some info from "The Dodge Story" by Thomas Mc Pherson. You might need a P15 Plymouth wiring diagram.🙃

No tailpipe sniffer, or vacuum gauges. Electrical only-

Good question. What would be the best way to find out? I do have this beast that I've been wanting to play with...

No, not the 70's Doobie Bros song -the stuff coming out of my tailpipe on the '40 wagon. I know why- It know doubt ran rich as I over carbed it with 2 Carters for 5 years. Now I've switched to Langdon's Weber 32/36 clone and it runs pretty good, except every time I start it up I get sooty water out the exhaust from carbon buildup. I've taken it out and "opened it up" - full throttle, a number of times- but still have the black stuff (exhaust is clean, light gray). Any home remedies that proved effective? I've heard spray water into the carb, Seafoam, etc.

I've been doing odd jobs while I wait for electrical components to arrive to finish the dash. I found this anomaly between firewall tags on my P22 project wagon (a 1952, assembled in San Leandro, based on the plate on the left front door post) and my parts wagon which I thought was a P22, but turns out it is a 1950 P19 according to the post tag. The front clip/hood is definitely a '51-52, so maybe it was in an accident and a front clip switch was made? Are they even interchangeable? The funny thing is, Plymouth continued using the '49 rear fenders on the '50 Suburbans, which this wagon doesn't have. Could the Owner's manuals be wrong on the serial numbers? It was within a few hundred of the year change. The silver tag below is from the supposed P19.

I forgot to mention that 277 volts is a common voltage for commercial lighting circuits.

The 120 or 277 volts is based on which electrical system you have. Not sure if the lumen output changes with voltage, but it's unlikely. You don't have a choice- you either have 120 or 277, but you can't switch between. Since it's rated at 150 watts and volts X amps = watts, I wouldn't think there would be a lumen change. My thought is that if you picked a different color temperature, say 3,500k instead of 6k, you might get more or less light, based on the efficiency of the LED itself, and that's what the label is reflecting.

Agree- pot metal. I had mine powdered coated to match the dash and the coaters confirmed it.

Looking good! Here's an appropriate poster for your wall.

As promised: Rack and Pinon thread

Don't you mean sleigh?😜

Check out Mark's video series. His is a '41, but it might help you. 1941 Plymouth Resto, #13

Here are some pics from my '40 wagon using the ECI kit. It has always worked well and was straightforward to install.

Here's the '47 section from "The Standard Catalog of Chrysler".

Another excellent vendor is Restoration Supply. You can download their catalog. They carry stuff that nobody else has.

Hey Frank- Restoration Specialties and Supply was my go-to vendor when I did my '40 wagon. They have an amazing variety of what they call "window channels". Good quality stuff. Have fun choosing!

Looks great, thanks!

Thanks for the step by step - I followed your lead and also bought a 12 volt motor. My original wire wound resisters look OK- would you replace them with NOS (which are available) just to be safe?

Funny- your dash is (of course) a reversed layout from my D14 coupe.😜 What about your defroster speed switch and heater fan switch? They both have the resistance elements which kinda spooks me.

What about these guys? Heater fan switch on the left and defroster speed switch on the right, both with ceramic heat sinks. Would 12 volts cause less heat, due to halved current? The heater motor itself will be 12 volts.

Good call. That checks out- it's a 30amp breaker. I wonder if you can reset it if it trips?

I'm starting the rewiring of the '51 Suburban and although I have the original dash switches (instruments, headlight and wiper) I don't trust them to continue to work flawlessly after 73 years. My concern is if I purchase NOS switches from our vendors or eBay, will they be able to handle the voltage? I will be running 12 volts. Anyone find any modern replacements that would fit? Also- in the picture of the '51 headlight switch below, I assume the little gray box is a headlight relay?

Thanks, you too. I only hope it works as good as it looks!

I had not seen these guys before. i will check them out- thanks!

Probably a combination of warm temps (LEDs don't like heat) and early technology- the longevity of the LEDs and the color rendering have improved greatly in the last 15 years. I remember doing energy audits when I worked for "a large CA utility company" and found HPS (high pressure sodium) lamps that had been in place for ten years or more. They would just slowly get dimmer, but not really burn out, but they still drew the same amount of watts, so not a good deal for the customer.