Bob Riding

Favorite movie..."a laurel and hardy handshake".

Or the reverse lovitator...

Looking at it, it reminds me of a '42 Plymouth crossed with a '51. It called it a "Suburbial".

I've been working on installing the electrical system on my '51 Suburban, and I had been using ChatGPT to assist. It's very interesting how it "scrapes" the internet for answers. Numerous times it referred me to this Forum, which I thought was a good response. However when I asked it create an updated wiring diagram to combine my '51 Suburban 6 volt original layout with a 12 volt one where it included an GM mini HEI distributor, one-wire alternator, turn signals, etc., it came up with the attached. I'm having a little trouble following the diagram. Any help would be appreciated!

If it's the flat 6, it would be the most hp motor that Chrysler made before production stopped in '59 - 131, or 132 hp

I sent mine to Lauderdale Speedometer. Refurbished it and set it back to zero. Great work- nice people.

Good lookin' car- great patina!

Welcome to the forum! I find it a treasure trove of info on our old Mopars. Show us some pictures!

Great, thanks!

Cool. Do have any pictures?

I've been working on my '52 Plymouth Suburban for 6 years now 🤪 and in that time my plans for it have changed-I was going to use a rebuilt Chrysler 360 motor and 200R GM OD automatic transmission, which meant I'd lose the lovely stock Plymouth tail-shaft E brake. I ended up sourcing a ’93 Ford Ranger rear end with 3:73 gears, so that I got to keep the wheel-bolt pattern and E brakes too. Fast forward a few years- Not being a fabricator and tired of all the mods required to get the motor and trans to work, I decided to go back to what I know - a tried and true rebuilt '56 Plymouth 230, with the 2bbl WW Stromberg "Power Pack" and stock '56 3 speed tranny, which included an E brake in great shape. yesterday, I installed the pull-handle mechanism under the dash, and it got me to thinking that the Ranger wheel E-brakes are superior to our driveshaft brake, but is there any way (or benefit) to try to combine them?

Almost done! Epoxy on the floor is a great idea. I wish I would have done it on my shop.

Hey Joe. I thought so too until I saw the original owner's manual - the woodies only had the center grease caps- no need to "fancy" things up with extra flash like a hubcap, after all it's a utilitarian vehicle meant for work- not a soccer mom wagon!! My friend wants to keep it stock.

My buddy and I have been working on getting his Peugeot woodie ready for the National Woodie Club event being held this year in July in Santa Barbara. I would be driving my Plymouth woodie to the event, but I will be trailering his wagon, which has never been shown before. The 1948 Peugeot 202 U (Utility) was directly copied from the 1934 Airflow. Peugeot engineers visited Chrysler's engineering team in 1934 to get permission and design ideas. As you can see, they saved $ by putting the headlights behind the grill! As far as we know, my friend's wagon is the only one of it's kind in the US. And you thought finding Plymouth parts was hard!

This part: "We used to say it needs an Italian tune up. Make suree your choke is fully open, at high idle pour about 1 quarter can of Berrymans carb cleaner slowly down the carb, pour about half of whats left in the can into the gaa tank. Now drive out to the country roads then drive the wheels off it till you run about about a quarter tank through it. 60 to70 miles or so. Get every thing g nice and warm then let her eat. In the words of Enzo Ferrari, "Brakes? We don't need brakes! They only slow you down!" Make sure you use all the carb circuits, idle, acc pump, climb so long hills to get the step up valve gets some work. Speaking of the step up, if it's not working correctly it might be stuck open, which will cause wet exhaust, black smoke, lousy fuel milage and fouled plugs. What do your sparkplug look like?"

Great job! What do the hubcaps have on them- Plymouth lettering or the ship? I found out the hard way that the Chrysler wheels were different when I went to pick up my '54 Town and Country up in the mountains and the Plymouth wheels I brought with me didn't fit. Center hole and stud spacing was different too. The PO had to use his skip loader to get it on my trailer, as it had been sitting for 35 years with four flats.

Here's some info from "The Dodge Story" by Thomas Mc Pherson. You might need a P15 Plymouth wiring diagram.🙃

No tailpipe sniffer, or vacuum gauges. Electrical only-

Good question. What would be the best way to find out? I do have this beast that I've been wanting to play with...

No, not the 70's Doobie Bros song -the stuff coming out of my tailpipe on the '40 wagon. I know why- It know doubt ran rich as I over carbed it with 2 Carters for 5 years. Now I've switched to Langdon's Weber 32/36 clone and it runs pretty good, except every time I start it up I get sooty water out the exhaust from carbon buildup. I've taken it out and "opened it up" - full throttle, a number of times- but still have the black stuff (exhaust is clean, light gray). Any home remedies that proved effective? I've heard spray water into the carb, Seafoam, etc.

I've been doing odd jobs while I wait for electrical components to arrive to finish the dash. I found this anomaly between firewall tags on my P22 project wagon (a 1952, assembled in San Leandro, based on the plate on the left front door post) and my parts wagon which I thought was a P22, but turns out it is a 1950 P19 according to the post tag. The front clip/hood is definitely a '51-52, so maybe it was in an accident and a front clip switch was made? Are they even interchangeable? The funny thing is, Plymouth continued using the '49 rear fenders on the '50 Suburbans, which this wagon doesn't have. Could the Owner's manuals be wrong on the serial numbers? It was within a few hundred of the year change. The silver tag below is from the supposed P19.

I forgot to mention that 277 volts is a common voltage for commercial lighting circuits.

The 120 or 277 volts is based on which electrical system you have. Not sure if the lumen output changes with voltage, but it's unlikely. You don't have a choice- you either have 120 or 277, but you can't switch between. Since it's rated at 150 watts and volts X amps = watts, I wouldn't think there would be a lumen change. My thought is that if you picked a different color temperature, say 3,500k instead of 6k, you might get more or less light, based on the efficiency of the LED itself, and that's what the label is reflecting.

Agree- pot metal. I had mine powdered coated to match the dash and the coaters confirmed it.

Looking good! Here's an appropriate poster for your wall.