JSabah

I’ve bought a lot of things from AB but unfortunately I had to send 2 sets back as they weren’t made properly (one of the sealing fins must have had mold issues as it was rough and tapered). I ended up with Steele. Not a perfect fit but better than I had - no air leaks and the car will probably never see rain ?

Couldn’t find the cost in my e mails but I did find the company that I went with. Wayne at northwest radiator in Spokane (the other was ABC in Stockton). I’ll get the cost for you tomorrow.

I posted this in the truck forum but thought some of you may have input/knowledge

Hi Marc, I did have a choice with the 49 Plymouth woody as the tanks were special for that car and I couldn’t find another model that used the same (or even similar) tanks. I cleaned mine out and when I cleaned all the rust and varnish away, found that it was Swiss cheese/ lots of pin holes top and bottom. Radiatshops just looked at me funny and a few said they could try (I think with epoxy), but didn’t seen confident. I found a system called re-nu. They have a inner and outer naked on finish (after media blast and prep.) that comes with a lifetime warranty (as long as you own the car). They tag and number each tank. I got an outrageous price from a local shop in the LA/orange area. Called another authorized dealer (I think in Tulare) and found a huge price difference.... so I checked with others and ended up sending it to a shop outside of Seattle and saved even more even with shipping to and from. They were knowledgeable, friendly and listened to my concerns about originality and did a great job and on time. If anything goes wrong, I can still take it to the local shop under warranty. You may want to check them out. https://www.gastankrenu.com

I’m looking at purchasing 2 (possible 3) power wagons that are in pretty rough shape. There are two 1952-54 and one 1950-51. I just finished a ‘49 Plymouth Woody so I’m somewhat familiar with the era but not so much with the power wagons. The frames look solid, some of the cab walls have rust. There are no bed sides, back or tailgate and the wood beds are present but rotting. Two have the original winches and most of the badging is there. Two ran when parked 10 yrs ago. I can typically weld Sheetmetal, make the wood beds, handle all the electrical, brakes, and fuel system. I typically send the engine, trans and gauges out to specialists. What pitfalls should I look out for (for instance on the woody, nobody makes wood kits so it was up to me and the fuel tank was not used in any other model, nor available). I have no experience (but always like to learn) about the transfer case or aux power - who works on or can just go thru and recondition those? I expect to have period correct show cars (not concourse but very nice drivers) Below is a picture of them as they stand now and my 49 just so you can see what I’ll expect. Looking forward to hearing what to look out for (also what values you think they may have as-is).

My car (‘49 Flathead 6 218) starts up as it should but it seems that after it warms up, the engine idle doesn’t lower. It actually seems that when the car initially warms up, the idle does drop but then after a bit more time, the Revs get higher and It does want to kick down. I have duel carbs from Langdon’s Stovebolt 32/36 progressive on the heated manifold. I think it must be a carb adjustment, but which one?

I had the name of a company in So Cal that made wiring harnesses but I seemed to have misplaced it .... anybody know? I’ve used Rhode Island in the past, but it isn’t them. Thanks, Josh

Interesting.... but my heater duct is on that side and it is crowded there too. Look at my 1st post pics. I think that my engine builder should have turned the carbs around and had the linkage more towards the center of the car. But then my fuel lines would have been wrong - always something but I think I’ve got it now.

I decided that the rods were never going in a pulling sutures the ball joing always had some give. While I got it better, I decided to try a cable system. Made a couple of brackets and bought a $15 cable. MUCH happier with the pedal action.

Front seat: with the cushion out make sure the tracks/stanchions are bolted to the seat. Then the entire unit bolts to the captive nuts in the floor. Finally replace the cushion. Rear seats: mine are not actually bolted in. The front of the rear seats hook into the rectangular hole (middle seat is over the tool box, 3rd row seat is in the floor). Then the back of the seat snaps int place Middle row single folding seat: 2 stove bolts at the hinge with lock washers & nuts from up under the tool box. Im sure mine may be a bit different, being a woodie but probably similar in some ways too.

Love it. More pics as it comes along please

These look great. I was going to use both the center hubcaps and trim rings on my ‘49 Plymouth so I thought I’d give it a go after buying a proper pin stripping brush. They did not come out as nice as yours, but not really bad enough where I feel I have to put the rings on to hide my work. Curious as to what it set you back...

Enough done to take her out for a little spin, come back refreshed and ready to finish up some details... Hopefully the Spring Fling local Mopar show will get rescheduled ps please feel free to explain how to rotate pics (they were not sideways on my phone)

getting smoother. I found that the rod that goes to the pedal had a tendency of Rotating just a bit but enough that it would bind up in the holes that it went through. In addition, the end by the pedal had no clip and was able to just fall out. I drilled a hole for a cotter pin and used some washers. Doing that made it safer and got rid of binding. Also, I’ve decided to use the higher hole on the lever that rotates at the carbs (thinking that the higher leverage would be a benefit as well as keeping the rod off the lip of the air cleaner. Finally, I shortened the short rod that runs parallel to the head (just before the rotator) which raised the pedal a bit. Waiting for a new linkage rod to come in the mail before this is hopefully 100% ..... but to answer your question: I don’t feel a difference with or without the return spring. But as I said, it is getting smother and a bit less stiff

I had a chance to work on the linkage a bit today with what I had in the garage. Basilisks extended the swivel with a pice of metal and put a twist in it to get a vertical. From there the linkage is straight with a less sever bend in the horizontal. It seems to have less play but the pedal is still stiff (but smoother). Any additional advice? I don’t know how to reduce the return spring tension on the 2 motorcraft progressive carbs (was thinking that might make for a more comfortable pedal).

I came up with the linkage shown below. I’ve never driven a 40’s or 50’s American car, but to me the gas pedal feels a bit off. I might describe it a heavy or stiff. With my heal on the floor I don’t seem to get enough leverage so I end up lifting my foot and pushing the pedal up higher. Even then it doesn’t feel smooth. I suspect that it is my home made linkage. Issue was that I needed to have it positioned as it is so that it pulls the throttle lever. I made the vertical linkage out of a threaded coupler and drilled out the threads for the vertical portion of the rod (I rounded the top of it so it wouldn’t look like a hardware store part). It is secured to the swivel with a bolt from under, the theory being I wanted it tight to the swivel so there was no play but needed the rod to turn as the swivel came around. One option I was thinking of trying was to leave the coupling threaded and put threads on the vertical rod with grease or anti seize and possibly support my linkage with some 45’s but I was hoping that there is a better solution (suggestions please) ... or is the pedal supposed to feel as I described?

A friend came over to help me tune my carbs (which I know nothing about). He discovered a small tube which he thought should be plugged like the others on the carbs.... I noticed 1 carb has the tube and the other doesn’t. Below are pics of the carbs - one with and one without. The one with has a black tube hose that he added and plugged with a bolt but for the pic I had removed the plug/bolt. What is the port and should it be plugged ... and just out of curiosity, why would one have it and the other not when they are supposed to be the same Motorcraft carburetors?

I bought this off eBay and it is an exact copy Of the one I removed ... granted it is for a 49-50 but they were great to work with (in fact I got a call out of the blue to tell me that eBay overcharged on shipping and they were giving me a partial refund) and may be able to help you out. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Emergency-Hand-Parking-Brake-Cable-for-1949-1950-Plymouth/321060224498?fits=Year%3A1949|Make%3APlymouth&hash=item4ac0ae3df2:g:IdQAAOSwZQxW53Jz

I'll look for your posts. I was able however get my pedal to return....at least most of the way. It turns out that I had the spring that keeps a bit of tension on the clutch fork on while I adjusted the clutch rod. When I disconnected that (small/light) spring, I was able to adjust the rod to the proper location. In fact there was so much that needed to be adjusted, that I had to turn the bracket that holds the rod on the pivot side around. Once I did that, a bit of adjusting of the "over center" spring as per the manual and it started working. A bit of lubricant and forcing new grease in the zerks helped too. Your setup being an earlier car is a bit different as I dont believe you have an overcenter spring but rather a main spring and a return springs. I think starting with the rod correct may help you and then use the manual for your setup. My pedal doesnt quite cone all the way up but it comes up enough to not "ride" the clutch. Maybe it will work itself out a bit or a bit more fiddling.

Here are some more

Hubcaps are done but I was waiting on double checking my brake rebuild before I fully torque the rear hubs (they are snugged up well for now) as they were a bear to get off even with the correct puller. interior pics... sure... (I still have the headliner to do, install the interior windshield frame and a few other odds and ends). Rear seats are original material, front seat is new.

Yes it will remain cream. For some reason in the picture it looks more white than it is. I actually changed it from Rio Red (maroon). Here is a better picture in terms of color (you can compare the car to the whitewalls)

No I did not. Had it towed. I’ll test the generator next week as well as the regulator (and clean the points/contacts). Then I’ll see if I have any more issues.

That was my initial thought as well but I didn’t even know if it was possible. I think I will take the generator and regulator to a reputable auto electric shop. I did not see any evidence of an issue in the wires tho.....