JSabah

Can anybody tell me where this goes or what it is? I vaguely recall prying it off (I think it was crimped on the backside) but my memory is failing me and I can’t find it in my pics.....

Trying to install new keyed locks for the front doors of the 49 Plymouth. The new cylinders that I purchased (ad stated that they were correct for the year) doesn't allow me to remove the key after 180 deg turn, but rather only after making a full rotation. The problem is that the latch system doesn't allow for 360 deg only 180..... so if I install what I have with the car unlocked, when I go to lock it, I will not be able to remove the key. Am I missing something here? THank you

see, that’s what I like about forums. I hadn’t even thought about putting on the outer portion of the door frame, but it is a great idea especially if the bar is too short. The original method of installing on the woody was to turn it around backwards and screw it to the inner door frame. Parts are ordered as one way or another, it looks like they can be made to work. Here is a pic of the rear door installation... which BTW took a bit of hammer and chisel work to get the angle right so that the door will open the proper amount sorry the pics are rotated... don’t know why the changed or how to rotate them back... and now that I’m looking at it, I don’t think they are “backwards “

My thought exactly... just wondering I’df anyone else has seen/used them

Trying sort my front doors and find that I have 2 different lengths of door strap and only 1 retainer (the part that goes in the door). Searched eBay and can not find the retainers (only straps) . I found these all over the internet but nothing for earlier cars/trucks. Had anybody used these on a 49 or 50? Being that I have wood doors, I think these may work if I drill out the threads and use wood screws. I’ll check on the length required in the am but the strap portion seems easy enough to make if I these aren’t the right length. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1960-1961-1962-1963-1964-1965-66-CHEVROLET-GMC-TRUCK-DOOR-CHECK-RETAINERS-2-PCS/123957764223?hash=item1cdc75607f:g:uuAAAOSw-CpYB6OJ

Wes, sending you a PM

Does anybody recognize these escutcheons for the interior door handle and window crank and know on what cars they were used on (other than Plymouth woodies) . It was suggested that maybe they came from a truck. I’m missing one set (for one handle). They are fairly flat - about 1/4” and recess into the door. They are two parts with a spring between (spring is not in pictures). I’ve searched eBay for period car parts (1949) but haven’t seen anything like them.

Here is one installed

Does anybody recognize these escutcheons for the interior door handle and window crank and know on what cars they were used on (other than Plymouth woodies) . I’m missing one set (for one handle). They are fairly flat - about 1/4” and recess into the door. They are two parts with a spring between (spring is not in pictures). I’ve searched eBay for period car parts (1949) but haven’t seen anything like them.

I don’t know if they are used on steel body cars or not but on the woodie, they hold the door handle (exterior) onto the escutcheon I had to destroy a couple to have my chrome done. They are thin walled flanged tubes that press on the door handle and then we’re crimped on (I will epoxy).

It’ll have to be Jan and Dean or The Beach Boys for the Woodie ??

I was thinking of putting 2 speakers 3.5” speakers I. The center where the original was - maybe trying to angle them out a bit. But now that you mention it, there are upholstered kick panels in front of the front doors that would work nicely too. As for speakers in the back, I was thinking of running wires in the headliner so they aren’t on the floor - my B,C and D pillars are solid as this in in a 49 Plymouth woodie. I don’t know much about subwoofers but maybe that wits can be run with the harness and pop up under the middle seat

I know some of you may cringe at this but, I’ve decided that because it was expensive to have the original radio fixed (and even fore to convert and I understand complicated to use), I would make it into a project. Since I don’t listen to am anyway, I’ve decided to install a Bluetooth amplifier so that music can be streamed from my phone and so that I can take and make phone calls. But I want the car to look original and have minimal equipment showing. So..... I gutted the radio except for the buttons/mechanisms, lights, and the knobs. I cleaned the glass and face and installed a micro switch that is activated with one of the buttons (and turned off with any other) and located where I’ll be installing a relay. Speakers (2 x 3 1/2” ) will be where the original was and possibly 2 in the back of the passenger compartment) I’m waiting for the amp and speakers and till post updates if anyone is interested. Here are some progress pics (sorry I don’t know how to arrange them in order )

Thanks Paul. The Watercolor paper was just something I had around the house and was never going to use (my wife probably bought it for one of the kids projects years ago .... and she never looks at prices but then questions my purchases ?) Josh PS I have a radio project coming up that I’m sure will create both good and bad comments. It involves gutting a non working radio and installing a new Bluetooth amplifier so that phone calls and business can be had wirelessly. A micro switch and relay will be used to power the unit from one of the old buttons and the original file and lights will be maintained

My rubbers were squished beyond recognition. This is with all new mounts. In any case, this is all done now. Firewall messaged, air duct modified, heater box and made a new linkage .....but great advice for people in the future looking at this thread ?

I’ve used West Valley Instruments and never had a problem. They have done complete restorations and general cleaning for my 50 mgtd (done in approx 1978/9 and all still working), Sunbeam Tiger, Daimler SP250, Jensen CV8 and most recently my 49 Plymouth. Morris can do anything from general clean up to complete rebuild including newly painted faces. I’ve seen all kinds of unusual instruments in his shop from classic concourse cars to aviation instruments. https://www.westvalleyinstruments.com

Update: I called AndyB and after confirming that I received the correct parts and sending that same pictures as I posted they said, “These were definitely made incorrectly. We will send out your replacement set today.” Hopefully the next set will be better.

Purchased at Andy B. I’ll give them a call on Monday.

I’m usually a perfectionist but in this case I’m just beat and hope this is par for both a 40’s car and parts being made today, just so I don’t have to do this job again ?. I am putting my front doors back together and the part in question is the seal for the wing windows/ vents. It seems as though the rubber was not consistent along one edge and it will not seal. See below. (Also, if need be I’d probably be up for re-doing after a break- The winds are just out of my sails at the moment)

I did as you did. Soft bristled brush, some diluted Simple Green followed by clear water and a rag.

looking back, I see you are correct.... but I don’t have an alternator. I have a generator. Does that change things? If not would you connect to the Field or Armature (sorry the electrics are such a mystery to me)? And just out of curiosity (seriously trying to learn here) wouldn’t you want the power to the lights conditioned thru the voltage regulator ?

Too cold to do any real work so today I continued on with details

Sure, drive ‘em over. As soon as I finish this project car and the one I have waiting for me I’ll get right on it ?

Thank you all for the reply's. Just getting back to this after getting sidetracked and Thanksgiving. All new wiring harness and every terminal cleaned. Please confirm that picking up the power from the "Battery" terminal of the voltage regulator will accomplish what needs to be done. Thanks again.

Sure, drive ‘em over. As soon as I finish this project car and the one I have waiting for me I’ll get right on it ?