JSabah

What should I be reading the temp on? Radiator? Generator? Something else)? Newly rebuilt temp gauge read a steady 160

Took this pic after parking

sorry but I don’t know exactly what was smoking other than it definitely was coming from the generator (mostly from the vents right behind the belt pulley). I checked the belt to see if it was too tight and binding but there is easily about 2 inches of play when I push on the belt. Interestingly when I parked, I took my time walked around the car (yes to admire it) and took a pic or two. There was no smoke then and I did smell anything odd. When the person told me he thought there was an engine fire, it was 5-10 minutes later. When I opened the hood, I could see the smoke pouring from the generator vents. I disconnect the battery - I don’t know if that had anything to do with it stopping (don’t think so) as it took several minutes to stop.

New Duralast from Autozone. I told them I needed a battery for a ‘57 (cause they look at you funny when you tell them you converted a 49) Belvedere or Surbuban. Ended up with a Group 25 550cca

Seemed like a lot of smoke. I have the feeling it is something other than a bit of burn-off ?

It’s been 4 years in the making and today (after a few test drives around the block and several starts), I took the woody to AAA to get it licensed. Drove it there as they needed to see and verify the vin. As we were waiting our turn someone came in and said who has a woody in the parking lot. When I said I do, why their reply scared the c**p out of me .... “I think your engine is on fire”. truns out it wasn’t but the generator was smoking enough to concern everyone around. newly rebuilt 6v gen to 12v and newly rebuilt 12v regulator. Any idea why this would happen? I’ve had the car on for at least 1/2 hour in total but this was the longest drive (15min) and this was the 1st sign of any electrical/generator issues.

Interesting... I just assumed (my 1st mistake) that both sides had them. I also have one on the outside and not the engine side. Maybe I’m not missing anything. But I still can’t get the clutch pedal to return ?

Will keep you posted when I find out myself. From the web research I did, I don’t believe you need to heat (or re-temper) it. BTW I had to order 3 pieces each 12” long .... so I may have some extra (if it is the right size for you)

Good to know. I’ll try and bend one up out of music wire just to have it ... if I cAn. But good to know that it may not be necessary

Thanks. That was my hunch....and yes, I’ll disconnect the battery first .... only gonna make that mistake once ?

Nope. Converted to 12v negative ground.

Got my car started for my 1st time (and for the 1st time in 21+ years) I which I could post a video. I didn’t have to many issues before start up but I did notice that my ammeter reads Discharge when I was raving the car and charge when at idle. Seems to be backwards.... is it? And if so is the fix as easy as reversing the ammeter wires? Thanks

These were found in a box of spare parts that came from the seller 5 years ago. Car is 99% done and I haven’t found a place/use for them. Anybody know what they are or where they go?

Just happened across this in the shop manual. It should shed some light on lengths, handle styles and markings

Yes but I’m off a fresh rebuild so no oil in the filter, gauge, internals etc. once I crank it over without firing it up, I’ll add a bit more.

Just following up with some info. When 4 qts are in the level on the dipstick is 1/2 way between the fill and full lines. 5 quarts is right on the full line. I previously pod and thought that 4 quarts would be at time fill line... so if you are showing fill, you are 2 quarts low.... Just an FYI

I called a few suppliers - no luck with the retaining clip yet (looking for 2). I places an "ad" in the classified section in case someone has any extras (maybe from an engine/trans swap).

Thank guys, so it looks like I’m just missing the retaining clips. Now I know what to look for (and what to ask for)

My transmission is back in and the linkage rods are in place but still need some adjustments. Before I do that (or have it done) I think I should have on hand the parts that I’m missing/lost. In the attached picture (Which I lifter off the web) there is a pivot that has 2 ball mounts inserted on each side (don’t know the name) and each ball joint has 2 half circles (some type of split bushing - also don’t know what they are called). Those bushing halves are kept in place by ???? - that is what I’m missing. Is there a washer? Some type of spring /circlip? Sorry I don’t have my manual with me. But I don’t recall finding why I was look for in it. Once I know what I’m looking for, I’ll need to know where to look ?

Thank you all for the dimensions/help. I took the easy way out and found this on eBay. dimensions are as above. I will double check by putting 4 qts in and checking then adding the 5th and rechecking and then topping off after it is run a little so the filter fills (another 1/2 qr or so). This one I found seems to match the one I lost but have pictures of as it has a tube cap as opposed to the felt as well as the bent handle and loop grip. (My engine is actually a 1950 218)

Thank you...I guess that my engine builder thought it looked better on the back right corner ?. I've now moved it to the proper location. Thinking about a second ground to the radiator support (from the battery) and a 3rd from the bell housing to the frame. As the car body is wood, I have some grounds to both (rear lights to floor, fuel pump to frame, headlight relay to radiator support, added ground wire fuel sender to floor, etc).

I can’t recall where the origins ground cable(s) went and I don’t have my pictures handy, nor am I certain that what I took apart was correct. I’ve converted to a 12v system (and neg ground), not that it should matter except for gauge. I have other cars with up 4 or 5 grounds (bat to body, to engine, transmission and 2 to the radiator) but on my ‘49 Plymouth I only recall having 1 braided type. What is necessary and/or recommended - location(s) and gauge Thanks

Thank you for the offer, but I don’t think it is necessary. I have one that I’ll cut and mark as described (and now I have the marking dimensions to verify). Thanks again.

No problem. Thanks for the effort and the clarification... perfect ! Thanks again

Since I don’t know the condition of my switches (other than presumably working) and since I went to 12v (halving the amps), I decided to use 2 relays and hide them where the connection block is. I used the existing (new harness) wires from the hi/lo foot switch as the trigger wires (power to the relay coil) and run a new ground from the relays to the frame. As for the high power side, Understanding that if fan belt breaks or I have other trouble there will be no headlights, I am picking up the power from the generator side of the ammeter at the BATT terminal of the voltage regulator using 12ga wire and a 20 amp fuse (I can always move the source to the battery, but 1) if there is any issue, I’ll be calling AAA or Hagerty and 2) the likelihood of night driving is minimal ). Thanks for all the help and teaching moments