classiccarjack

Thank you sir.

Painting the emblem red really makes it stand out nicely.

Thank you for sharing your labor of love here Don. The rust repair photos and such are very helpful to me.

Yay! Congratulations on becoming a grand dad! I will be ancient myself when my opportunity comes. I started family life in my 40's.... I found water close to a gallon of water in my engine. I am going to have to take ol Lucille further apart now. I bought a 265 for the old girl. I hope this will give her some grunt! Otherwise I may have to turbo her so I can get in and out of the mountains here. Looks like I will be looking into suspension swaps now.

What a great photograph. Really good quality considering that it was taken about 70 years ago....

Welcome back Fester!

I would ask Tim Kingsbury or George, one of those guys will know for sure. I know that the Fluid drives use non detergent 10w oil. And I need to find out what a R7 uses for my transmission if I use it in one of my cars. Please keep me in the loop when you solve this mystery.

I am going to have give this a whirl someday. Thank you for the tip.

Where did you purchase your wiring kit from Classic Moose? I will need to do my wiring someday, and I am hoping to find an OEM application.

Those look nice! Love it!

The previous post has pictures of what I received from Nostalgic Reflections. These plates are "Acid Etched" and good quality. He stamped these for me at a fair price. If I stamped it, it would look like a 5 year old did it! LOL I do need to pick one of your brains if I may.... Is a 1938 Plymouth Truck supposed to have a black or a red Body Number Plate? Is there literature available that decodes these plates? If anyone is willing to type out how to decode them, I would be very grateful. I totally winged it on the numbers used(the Plymouth Truck Plate is right, it's the red number plate that I am referring to). If I am wrong, I will have to pay to get it right. But then I have learned a lot in the past year! The 1936-1938 trucks are very beautiful and I can very seldom find one that hasn't been Chebby'd! Well in photos that is, but not in person, all the local trucks are butchered up badly.... Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

I am finally going to attempt to post again with pictures using my PC.... Here goes!

Oh that sounds very nice! I can't wait to see how this pans out. My 1.5 Ton will need all the help it can get. She is very heavy all by herself. I am hoping to get the engine swapped today. I got some buddies coming over to help with the grunt work.

Nostalgic Reflections (509)226-3522 Jerry Turner is his name. He made my data plates using the information I sent him. Like I said, it took some time, but it worked out. I am trying to use the phone app to add pictures with no success. I will try later with my PC if you would like to see the quality he does.

I do believe that this has some truth to it. I have not applied this to older technologies, but it may be a fun topic to experiment with.

One last thing, put a penny between the axle and the pressure screw/shaft of the puller. A squashed penny is better than repairing axle threads. I learned this from my grandpa when I was a teenager back in the 1980's. A tip that I once failed to follow on my 1956 Desoto and learned to truly appreciate the wisdom of my elders.... It took me some time to repair a mushroomed end and rethread it(It was late at night and I didn't see the damage that I caused until it was too late)! eek!

It's nice to see a young gun jump into getting one of these trucks on the road. I took on a 1950 Dodge Truck when I was 19. Now I am approaching 50 and have a 1936 1/2 ton, a 1937 1.5 Ton, and a 1938 Plymouth Truck to take on. I hope to have the 1937 running this year. I look forward to seeing your photos.

I got a guy on eBay recreate my data plates for me. He did a great job, but took a long time to do it. I just searched for him and cannot find him on eBay. I hope that he didn't stop doing this type of work. My plates are acid etched and the stamping was definitely fair enough for me. If he turns up, I will alert you.

Hmmmm there are some here that have tools that I don't have. I need to buy more tools!

Atlas Obsolete in Temecula sales them. There is a 2 for 1 listing on eBay also. I have been eyeballing that one. It's 2 for 49 bucks I believe.... I don't have a part number, and I am on the fence about using the spin on adapter kit myself.

That's the tool! I am glad to own one. Tough to find....

I forgotten to mention my diagnosis.... The rubber line would let pressurized fluid pass into the wheel cylinders, but wouldn't allow it to bleed back. It was the rear hose at the differential in my case. It kept the entire system pressurized and caused my brake lights to stay on. By releasing the bleeder screws, I was able to limp it home a few short miles at a time to prevent my new brakes from overheating. OK, I will quit yappin and let you have your thread back....

I had a rubber hose that was partially blocked internally that caused a similar condition. Sadly it was a new part that let me down. Start by removing the lines from the wheel cylinders and master cylinder and check for a obstruction with compressed air. You will need some water handy to immediately clean up to avoid damaging the paint(Note: What ever you do, avoid putting pressurized air into your wheel cylinders and master cylinder to avoid damaging the piston cup seals). But first, try what Knuckleharley said. Make sure that the brake rod is the right length and check any other adjustments. I hope that this helps. I chased my tail for a day or so on my 1959 Dodge that had a similar issue.....

What is the size of your piston? I bought 23 flatheads last year for parts. I have weeded through the heard and have decided on which engines that I am keeping. I will be parting with a lot of them soon and have some extra pistons here.... I really like your attitude, you certainly are a great person to add to this hobby we all share.

Your 100% right. I spoke to him the day before he left to the race and died at the track. After calling for weeks, I finally got a call back from Tom's wife. It has been a few years past now and no Plydo. I really miss the conversions and the great parts available to make my projects better.... I still miss him.