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Rock Auto will put 2 6014's, or 6024's at your doorstep for around $20

heat infusion

Dropping (-) is normal when not running. Has this been a issue since the gen. was rebuilt? Was this an issue before the gen. was rebuilt, as in why did you have the gen. rebuilt? Has this generator been polarized? Zen Masters/Gurus: Does this generator need to be polarized ??

That motoring test should be helpful. I have used it with a generator that is not in a vehicle to see if it works before installing it. There is another test that is done with the vehicle running. I have not done that one. It also involves a jumper wire to determine if the VR may be at fault. I don't remember how that one is done. It has been posted before. Perhaps someone will chime in, or link the thread.

Are you getting into 4th gear yet? On a prior posting you were not shifting from 3rd due to the lack of required wiring to make the M-6 function properly. Probably takes a good battery to run without a working generator. A marginal/poor battery may get you started after you charge it, but then not hold up for long to keep everything functional. Recharge, starts, but then same deal over again. It does sound like you have a generator problem, but the battery could contribute as well. Even with a working generator, and a good battery it may be necessary to bump the throttle up a bit before pulling the battery cable off. Have you done a generator motoring test to check for generator output?

Even a $3 (sale/coupon price)(sometimes free with purchase coupon) HF meter will be helpful. You may not be able to do high amp stuff, but it will do the basic stuff. And if you hook it up wrong, drop it, run over it, your only out $3. I stuck the leads in the ac outlet with one on amps instead of volts. Poof, but just a $3 poof.

Shift rods will be different EDIT: with the transmission swap

Or: scroll down when you get there http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/tech_tips.html

try a search using: ISO32

glass--1309138-----Dodge- DeSoto 51-52 ---------no Plymouth vent wing shaft and bracket coupe 50-52 DPCD 1303899 edit: vent wing handle package 1450157

Try a google for: Idaho Transmission Warehouse or Western Transmission ( the one near Idaho Transmission Warehouse)

The "search" function on this site is not all that friendly when I try to use it. Not enough words--- zip. More words--- more results. Like over 200 threads to sort through. Then you need to skip over the posts about dog poop. Here is a good thread. http://p15-d24.com/topic/32716-the-sword-in-the-stone-a-water-distribution-tube-adventure/?hl=%2Bdistribution+%2Bremoval#entry344638

http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/tech_tips.html

My shop manual makes no mention of using a sealant when installing the manifolds other than to use a suitable sealer to coat the threads of the bolts that go into the water jacket. EDIT: add pic movement is expected

Does it crank good when you bypass the solenoid?

I would expect that a new voltage regulator should be "plug n play'. You should not need to go into it. If you are talking about adjusting the old one, the link I posted should help with the basics of operation, and adjusting that should allow some tweaking without all the fancy equipment. I have not adjusted one, but I know it is important to get it right so that you don't continually over charge your battery.

In addition to the possible sources that I sent you a used one in a PM, you could try collectorsautosupply, or mitchell motor parts (fmmpar on ebay) for new.

This may be of some help when checking the charging system. http://vrr.dyndns.biz/Docs/Autolite/autolite_gen_and_start.pdf

There was a similar case here recently. There was an issue with new points. Spring was not putting enough tension on the points at higher rpm's.

My D24 was the 10594- upper right with hole A for the brake light switch.

Pic from 1948 Dodge. I think Plym may be the same. Looking fwd from inside the area of the master cylinder.

That is a hose, metal line, metal line junction block with the hole for the axle vent bolt. Not really sure what OP needs. Block that has brake light switch ? Can install a mechanical brake light switch, and replace that type with a T from the parts store.

Pics and markings will help with reassembly, but from the looks of the shoe wear in your pic your brakes were not properly adjusted to start with

When I made one for my D24 I just used the paper type gasket material. Mine only need enough to eliminate the metal to metal contact, and a thick paper one did that. It snugged right up.

No credit for me Repost from any earlier situation. Do not remember who provided it. Just saved the link rather than make ev1 search