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some NY special plates: pretty much anything for an extra buck Medical Professionals to include: Chiropractor NYSCA Chiropractor DCH Doctor of Dental Surgery Medical Doctor (vehicle) Medical Doctor (motorcycle) New York State Dental Association DDS New York State Dental Association DMD Optometrist/Ophthalmic Dispenser/Optician Podiatrist Pharmacist Physical Therapist Psychologist Registered Nurse Registered Physician Assistant Veterinarian Visiting Nurse Emergency services catagory: Civil Air Patrol Emergency Medical Technician Emergency Medical Technician Paramedic Ham Radio Operator Volunteer Ambulance Service Volunteer Firefighter Water Rescue Team Other Professionals: Acupuncturist Certified Public Accountant New York Press Professional Engineer Registered Architect

Been there, done that, no shirt.

What is really cool is that this vehicle dropped basically on its nose yet did not get smashed enough for the front wheels to touch the ground. Try that with today's recycled beer can cars, and watch the insurance adjuster hit the paperwork with the "TOTALED" stamper.

Remove all the pins to lock and unlock the door with any key that fits in the slot.

Still see them in NY

,,,

Quote from post 3

Maybe a quick look at the brushes will reveal something.

Seems like it would show other times (other speeds) as well, but have a look at the universal joints as suggested. (drive line)

As D. Smith states, the button can not be pushed in unless you turn the key to the unlock position. If you can pick the lock to do that then you can depress the little button shown in this pic. The button has a spring under it, and it will depress a little without being in the unlocked position, but not enough to release the cylinder. The little button can be ground down a bit with a drill bit or dremel. Save the lock. It could possibly be re-keyed and used in someones door. Pin does not do the holding in doors Edit: another thread to read on this problem. (cylinder removal) http://p15-d24.com/topic/35784-turtle-lock-question/?hl=turtle

Rubber gloves when you clean it up. Could be some lead residue buried in the crud.

Don't want to go back to read all the posts. When was the need for a rebuild determined?

It has been suggested (by Dodgeb4ya I believe) that you can get the clearance to get a new spring on there without pulling the head by adjusting the tappet all the way down. You will need a valve spring compressor . Edit: Some penetrating oil, oil Kroil may loosen that lifter up.

One lead from the remote switch to the terminal that the battery connects to on the solenoid. Other lead to the terminal that goes from the solenoid to the starter. With key on you will then bypass the solenoid with your remote switch.

1 and 6 are at TDC at the same time. one compression stroke, one on exhaust stroke. You need to determine when #1 is on the compression stroke. Put a piece of masking tape over the hole. With all the plugs out, turn by engine by hand and watch for the tape to be blown off.

These are inexpensive. Can use to check for spark at each cylinder, and can be used at the #1 cyl when setting the distributor to fire the cyl at the right time.

Link to "static timing" procedure. http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/tech_tips.html#static

There are some threads about removing the old plugs. Sheet metal screw in the middle, ice pick, whatever. They will not be reused, so you can go ahead and abuse them getting them out. It isn't so much that that gunk and such will continually foul your coolant. It is more of an issue of using the full volume/full cooling capacity of the water jacket. The space is there to have coolant, and any area loaded with gunk is not helping to keep the engine cool. You may find little. You may find a lot. You may find odd things. Opening the drain on the side of the block may, or may not give you an indication of the gunk level. The plugs you presently have could last a lifetime, or pop a pinhole from rusting from the inside at any time. This is what I found in one engine. Made of metal.

I used the ink cartridge refill syringe which was 10ML. Gave it a couple of shots. Probably did not fill the float. I would not fill it until it overflows, but that is an option if you would like to.

Sounds like one of the pins is no longer staying up where it belongs. One solution is to pull the lock and remove the offending pin and spring. The key works by pushing the pin and spring up out of the way so the key can turn. With no pin in that position the lock will work OK. The cut on the key at that spot will no longer be in play. Can do the same with the other lock that the key goes into but does not turn. Remove, or reposition pins until it works.

As stated, horn adjustments can be touchy, and should be near last on the list. 1) If you hear the relay you have a good ground at the horn ring. From there....... things to check: 2) Use a heavy jumper from the battery to the screw on the horn to see if the horn(s) are OK. Probably are if they sometimes work. 3)As suggested, use a test light to check for voltage at the terminal on the relay that feeds the horns. 4) If the horn works with a jumper, and you have voltage lighting your test light you then need to clean the connection at the relay, and the horn. 5) If the horn(s) does not work, but you have voltage for the test light try cleaning where the horn bolts to ground. 6) If you do not have voltage to the test light. Check for voltage coming to the relay. Check the connection for tight and clean. The relay has 2 voltage spots. One to energize the relay when you ground the horn wire, one with voltage waiting to go to the horns when the relay is energized

As has been suggested in many threads, if you wire a relay in to take the load you can control the lights with a 12V switch and likely not overload the switch.

Have had to replace the headlight bulbs on the wife's '09 HHR. I did not ask if they would, but I do not believe parts stores will replace the HHR bulbs. Last one was noticed before leaving home. I had my wife stop at NAPA on her way to where she was going to snag one in case she was spotted on her way home in the dark hours. It was the low beam that was out, so there was no sneaking home on the low beams. She got stopped, but they let her go when she produced the new bulb with a short explanation. Sometimes they write a "fix it" ticket to show that they have been doing something during their tour of duty. That is a pain as follow up is needed.

Vent tube filling if carb has it. My photo, not my idea. (Tip posted by Dale Jr a while back.)

I would pull all 5 welch plugs/freeze plugs/casting plugs/expansion plugs (Edit: add core plug as a name) from the driver's side of the engine. Lots of undesired stuff gets deposited there in the water jacket, and heavier deposits may not just flush. New 1 5/8" plugs are readily available from auto parts stores. I found some poking around in parts drawers in the customer area at a NAPA. That was after I had already purchased a box of 12. EDIT 2: here is a thread with some suggestions. More can be found. http://p15-d24.com/topic/20359-engine-block-flush/?hl=%2Bflushing+%2Bengine#entry195897