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MBF

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Everything posted by MBF

  1. Getting it running is half the fun, and AHHHHH that feeling when she lights off for the first time and stays running. You may want to try another source of gas (boat gas tank etc) to avoid whatever has accumulated in the tank under the cab from being drawn into the system. I'd strongly suggest that you have some type of battery disconnect installed while you're sorting out your electrical problems. I can help with the generator problem when you get that far-been there and done that! Even have a couple lying around. Take lots of pictures-I wish I had done that when I first started. Good luck. Mike
  2. There was a lot of thought put into the location of the gas tank. This way when he is rearended the FD will not have a problem locating the scene of the accident-they just follow the red glow in the sky. Maybe someone would want to weld a trailer hitch to it to make it multipurpose. Mike
  3. GB-I was down there last Sat for a board mtg. The park was really depressing-and full of snow! I'll be there Thurs morning this year on the show weekend, but I'm probably bringing down my 78 half ton-its just to far to go this year for the '52. Can't afford any time delays due to breakdowns-youngest graduates hs the week after the show, and oldest daughter getting married 2 weeks after that. We'll make sure that we hook up this year. mike
  4. Thanks-since it hasn't been giving me any problems I'll just do an oil change-this is a sweet running flathead 6-probably the nicest and quietest in the fleet-why mess with perfection-someone obviously went through this just before I got it but I don't know any details. Mike
  5. Folks, we've been busy getting our new look together so that we can roll it out-we'll-we're there. Check us out at: http://www.antiquetruckclub.org We'll eventually be moving this back to our previous domain http://www.antiquetruckclubofamerica.org/ too. Check in on the discussion and pictures to see what we've been up to. Tell your truckin' friends. Better yet-if you're not already a member think about joining us. Only about 15 weeks(but who's counting) to Macungie. Tx- Mike
  6. I just went to change the oil in my '52 1 ton and when checking the bottom of the pan for sludge I noticed that I can push the pick up screen assembly up-its pivoting on the pickup tube. Do I need to drop the pan and tack it to the tube or are then designed to move? Never had a problem w oil pressure fluctuation, but I want to make sure that she's good to go for the upcoming nice weather. Anyone familar with this? Thanks-Mike
  7. Good point Merle-I forgot about that-and spent a fair amount of time trying to figure out why the indicators didn't work! Mike
  8. There;s a bimetalic spring inside the relay that as it heats up and cools down makes and breaks contact and acts as an on/off switch. The directional bulbs will provide the grounds when you get it installed in your truck. Just so that you have a load on it, I'd hook one of the output wires to a bulb, and ground the bulb housing to the battery negative. Depending on how output wires you have will determine how it needs to be wired on the vehicle. I may be wrong here since it was a long time ago that I did this, but the 5 wire setup requires separate directional signals in the rear, and the 7 wire setup is wired through the brakelight switch to allow you to use your 2 rear tail lights as directionals like a modern vehicle. If I'm wrong, I'm sure someone has the right answer. I did the same thing as you are going to do Paul. Disassembled, cleaned, lubed and painted the switch on the bench before putting it in the vehicle. Mike
  9. In addition to the alternator being readily available it is also internally regulated which eliminates the firewall mounted mechanical voltage regulator. I converted my 36 Plymouth, and 52 Dodge 1 ton-coudn't find a 6 volt battery that lasted past the warranty period-both vehicles sit most of the time in the garage. Bulbs were getting to be a problem too. Mike
  10. If you're talking about the electric setup I have a working motor and I think most of the linkage to go with it. PM me if you're interested. Mike
  11. That story sounds vaguely familar! After being married almost 29 yrs I know not to mess with her sewing stuff. How do I come to that conclusion you may ask?Ever come in from the garage and try to use a piece of thread off a spool to get a piece of food from between your teeth, or sewing needles to clean out carburator jets? Then there's the knitting needles that can be used to plug off a vacuum or fuel line. Try cutting aluminum tape with her good scissors-they can be spotless and the fingerprints wiped clean and she'll still know. Do not try these at home. Mike
  12. I think what Merle meant was that the gear ratios on 2-4 in a 4 speed were similar in ratio to 1-3 in a 3 spd. I'm not sure what if any of the parts are actually interchangable between the two different transmissions. I know the 3 speeds require a different bellhousing than the 4 spd.
  13. I have a five speed (non syncro) out of a 42 1.5 ton. I saved the driveline and scapped the truck since the body was beyond shot. I'm located in SE NY if your interested pm me. You also may want to post the question on the Antiquetruckclubofamerica.org website. Mike
  14. I have been running 80-90 in the tranny and rear on my 52 1 ton, and 36 Plymouth for many years now. Last year I put a little LUCAS oil stabilizer in each-since they sit alot in the garage I was concerned about condensation on the portions of the gears/bearings that weren't submersed in oil. The LUCAS stuff sticks to the surfaces better than regular gear oil. Just my opinion, and I still use a bit of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcases of all this old stuff and haven't had a valve hang in years! Mike
  15. GB-I was referring to the 16" Budd style wheels with the locking ring, not a drop center rim. If I could find a Budd styled drop center that fit my 6 hole bolt pattern that would solve a lot. Mike
  16. Chris-looking good! Keep us posted on the tire situation-are you planning on using the original Budd rims? If your tire dealer is going to put radials on them let me know how you make out with them. My tire dealer wouldn't do it as he said they'd "walk off the rims" because the rims are narrow?!? He said if I could find 16" Budd drop centers that matched the lug pattern he could keep me in takeoff radials. There's a chassis for sale on Ebay in CA that has those rims on it-was going to ask the guy where he came up with them, but it sounds like the truck was something that he inherited vs something he did himself. Mike
  17. Merle-thanks again! Mike
  18. I know that either Grey Beard or Merle provided this during the last chat. I was told to write things down so I wouldn't forget them. I did write it down, but I can't remember what I did with the paper-I know I put it in a safe place! Anyway-I'm planning on tearing into the center section of my full floating 1 ton rear. Does anyone have the p/n's for the 2 carrier bearings and cones along with the pinion bearings (industry numbers are fine). I want to see if I can have the parts on the bench before I take it apart. Hopefully if I get the parts I won't lose them before I need them. Is there a chat night coming up soon? Mike
  19. Young Ed-if you don't get what you need-let me know. I purchased both types of pumps from NAPA last year (I only kept the correct one with the external bypass). I can dig through paperwork and see if I can come up with a p/n for you-but I do know that we found the right one by looking at the picture on their screen. Mike
  20. Got my copy from Amazom yesterday. Read almost half of it last night. Good read on a cold Winter evening. Mike
  21. I think if you're looking to drive your truck 65-75 mph you're also going to have to do something with the steering and brakes-anything above the originally designed speed and you're going to be out of both (especially for a 1.5 ton that you want to tow with). I had originally thought of doing the same with my 1 ton, but to avoid having to re-engineer a better braking system and changing the power plant I've decided to keep it original and take the slow road. Just my 2 cents. Mike
  22. Model T Ford. The tranverse springs and steering colum are the giveaway. Mike
  23. Another problem common with non asbestos shoes/pads is squealing due to the hardness of the shoe material. If the shoes drums are glazed over this will increase the problem. The reason there are slots in disk pads is to control noise-kinda surprise they don't do that on the shoes too. Mike
  24. Just ordered mine from Amazon. 4-6" more of snow predicted for upstate NY tommorrow-gonna turn the heat on in the garage and try to play. Last weekend I was outside with the big Ford all weekend-but I did get to take a 25 mile ride so it was worth it-well at today's gas prices. Think SPRING. Mike
  25. Tony-the one on mine is plain black-no embossing at all. Mike
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