Niel Hoback

I used a cheap 4AA powered AM-FM from the local Big Lots mounted on wood in a spare 802 case. The 802 knob shafts are connected to the radio with flexible tubing. the power is wired with the light thru the top button of the 802. Antennae wire tied to the antennae lead-in. Good enough for who its for. This means anyone can do it.

Year of the pig?? I have my own year now?? Cool, let's eat.

You can make all the pins you'll ever need with a pair of wire cutters and a box of the right size finishing nails. All you need is one original to cut the right length.

No wonder my ants have been running backwards!

Make sure you specify 6 volt negative ground ants.

Definitely with Norm on that. Don't do anything you can't undo. It sounds like you've got the wrong guard there.

I'm very happy to be very wrong. I hadn't checked the progress of the bill since last summer when it was different from what you just showed me. It looks like for an extra $37 a year, I will finally get to use those plates I've been saving. It's 2 degrees here right now, but I'm quite happy thanks to you.

As I understand Indiana's YOM plate use, it has the same restrictions as an antique plate. Also, you need two plates for 46-48's. Thats no good for me or other daily driver cars. I have two sets of matching 48 plates, too.

The hole:) in the bottom of the carb is a vaccuum passages to the power piston. If vaccuum is not applied to the piston, a spring will push the piston and pin up out of the hole in the metering jet allowing considerably more fuel down the throat all of the time instead of just during conditions of wide open throttle, or rapid acceleration. Floor mats? We don't need no steenking floor mats.

Bob, I saw the same ad, it didn't specify 6 or 12 volt!

Yesterday it was $1.89 at four area stations. Too bad I could only fill up once.

One of the most fun cars I've had was a 1958 Triumph Mayflower. The cutest little 4 door sedan. I couldn't get a starter for it, so I always used the handy little crank. I wonder if any still exist.

Congratulations, Tim. Your job as a grandfather is to show him how much fun both of you can have with an old car. You should be very good at it.

I have a friend who's a dj on an AM station. When he walks under a bridge, you can't hear him talking.

I bought 5 gallons of used paint. It's in the shape of a house.

DeSoto Frank, the rivet holes in the hub and drum are exactly the smae size. That is why I can use a roll pin to hold the drum in the exact same position as the rivets did. I noticed in a junk yard that 70's AMC rear drums and hubs were held together with a couple of small flathead screws.

One of my boys had two of those Chryslers, and I think he still has a couple of spare instrument panels and the electro-luminesence units for them that he collected. It seems to me that he was always looking for more taillight lenses and housings. The lenses didn't stand up to the Idaho sun too well, and the housings were rather fragile.

I removed all of my drums from the hubs. You can just grind off the end till its flush with the hub and press the pins from the hub. They are really in there tight. I replaced all the pins with a "spring pin" thing that is a rolled up piece of spring steel. It is pushed in from the back side of the hub until it is nearly flush, what sticks out the drum side can either be ground off or used as guide pins. That was ten years ago and the drums have not moved any. Some have said this should not be done, but it seems to make no difference. Rear wheel brake service is a snap since I don't have to remove the hubs. Front wheel brake service does not require bearing removal. For legal purposes; I am not saying you should do this, I am only saying that I have done it with no negative results. It does promote regular brake checks since it is easier to do. I would suggest that if you decide to remove the separate the hub/drum assemblies, do not attempt to drive them out with a BFH, as you will crack the hubs. They must be pushed out with a press or a large vise. Once you have ground off the ends, you can remove the hub from the drum aking it easier to push the pins out.

Allan, try a fabric store for embroidery thread, It comes in more colors than you'll ever need, and its six strands so you can make it as thick or thin as you want.

Is there anything special about the manifold where the choke mounts? Can I mount one on a p-15 manifold? I have all the linkages and a choke unit, but I don't know if the manifold will accept it. Is it posible to just drill and tap holes to mount it and eliminate the hand choke?

That is one funny photo! ! Put some pants on, man.

Bob, it said something like "peizo" on it, but yes, that does sound about right. Small, round, plastic. Ha, kinda like everything else at Radio Shack!

Bob, I have a unit very much like yours, and had trouble remembering to cancel it. I found a very small electronic beeper, about the size of a quarter, at Radio Shack. The package said it would work on something like 3 to 16 volts. I just wired it into the pilot bulb and it beeps when the light flashes. I had to put a piece of tape over the holes in it because it was just a little too loud.

I hate it when that happens.

I confess to not answering most questions for several reasons. There are things I know the answers to, but I also know that there are much better qualified people to do the responding. A lot of times my answer is the result of trial and error and I cannot always say what the right thing to do is, sometimes I just get lucky. Another reason I don't answer some questions is because I know that the way I do things is not the best, but only the cheapest. This isn't right for everyone because doing it right is the best if you can afford it. It boils down to this, my answer is good for me, but not always good for you, so it is best for me to keep quiet sometimes. Lincoln said "It is best to remain silent and thought a fool than to speak and remove all doubt". Twain said, "Never pass up a good opportunity to keep quiet". I would rather learn from everyone else than steer someone wrong.