jeffsunzeri

I can't cite my sources just now (disorganized, not secret or anything) , but trucks manufactured after September 1 of 1941 are considered 1942 models and were sold as such. I have a WD-21 that falls in that category. The factory was already under restrictions in late 1941, so most of the trucks sold would have gone to priority sales such as farms and businesses (small fleets) rather than individuals. I've seen examples of 1942 dated civilian trucks which were sold with mixed military parts, such as the wiper doors done in olive drab and military steel trimmed windows. I guess it was an interesting period for Dodge.

Properly testing a starter requires not only a visual inspection, which you've already accomplished, but the field coils and the armature should also be tested electronically. The most difficult to bench test is the armature. You use a growler to test the armature for shorts, and generally a good ohmmeter can be used to test the field coils.

Sort of on the topic - Years ago, I was travelling south on 101 in San Jose (on a BSA Rocket III) easily exceeding 100MPH. CHP didn't like that and pulled me over, and noticed that my license plate looked really nice for an older motorcycle. I told him I had it restored, like the rest of the bike. He wrote me a ticket for a "modified license plate". No speeding citation. With the hassle it caused me at the DMV it would have been preferable to pay for the speeding ticket!

I believe the original owners manual states that for normal weather, cold starts, depress the accelerator to the floor 3 times and hold it to the floor for the count of 3. Release the pedal and crank. If fuel is draining from the carb over the span of 2-5 days, then the check valve in the fuel pump may be suspect. As others have stated, if left to sit for more than a few days, more accelerator pumping may be in order. Just add the 3-count at the end before cranking.

Aircraft use a pressurized stream of specialized oil injected into the exhaust system to produce the smoke you see in sky-writing and aerobatic exhibitions. Most any competent aircraft mechanic familiar with aerobatic aircraft can set up this system in a safe manner for use in the sky. Using a smoke system on the ground, however, would not be a recommended activity even if the special oil is fairly non-toxic.

Why braze and not solder as the factory did?

The stock brakes on these vehicles, when in good condition are very, very good. To determine that your brakes are in good condition: 1. On a flat, dry road with 4 good tires, all of the same size, tread and condition, get to a speed of about 40 mph. 2. Let off the gas, and apply the brakes forcefully as in a panic stop. 3. If your brakes are in good condition, you will stop in a straight line, and all 4 wheels will have locked up. 4. An examination of the skid marks left should show that the front wheels locked up before the back, and all four wheels/tires should have about even skid marks, if your brakes are in good condition. 5. If your car cannot pass this test, do some repairs.

What sort of benefits did you get with the 2BBL carb? Better gas mileage? More pep? Better acceleration, top end?

You get extra HP just from running high octane fuel with a small advance of the timing. You'll get the biggest and best performance improvement from a dual exhaust. Next will be a head shave for a compression increase, using 91(or higher) octane fuel, followed closely (or at the same time) by dual carburetors. Your WC will love having a 230 under the hood. It's a bolt in replacement for the 218.

Why not bolt a Powerflite trans to the flat 6?

Even with the finest brakes and best tires on the planet, they won't prevent you or your passenger(s) from slamming into the windshield, getting crushed by a steering column, being tossed out the door in a rollover, or being mangled in a side impact event. I think many of us older folks have seen plenty of these events to last a lifetime, and don't want to see any more.

Yes, ground to the engine. It is preferable NOT to ground under a bolt that is used to hold or assemble a subassembly. The cable/strap acts as a soft washer under the bolt head which is a no-no.

Ground your battery to the engine block. There are a few tapped holes just below the oil galleries for this. Then you should have 2 ground straps - one from engine to the cab and one from engine to the frame.

Imperial men are the best and appreciate the same! The 47' version of the 1/2 ton is in my opinion the one to go after as a few technical items were updated from the earlier pickups: - The bed is a tad wider to accommodate a 4x8 sheet easily. - The cab is mounted without the earlier wood bits, which are always rotted out. - The stainless trim is a bit easier to come by. Of course we don't always have the luck to be choosy. My '47 has been everything to me and family for over 40 years (daily driver, worker, weekend hauler, tote-the-band-members stuff, etc. and now just a weekend fun truck). It's tough to beat and almost impossible to kill, except for neglect. Neglect will kill.

First and foremost, put in seat belts, preferably 3-point, before you do anything else. This one upgrade will be the most important thing you do by a long shot. Seat belts first, and use them.

Before you go out buying coils and new gas tanks, determine whether you are losing spark or fuel when it dies. Take it out for a drive and as soon as it quits, check for spark with a spark testing device or just pull a plug wire and hold it near the plug to see if there's spark while your assistant cranks the engine over. If there's spark, then check for fuel. Release the fuel line at the carb and see if you are getting gas to the carb while faithful assistant cranks it over. Of course, be safe and have a container handy for the gas to go into so as not to create a fire hazard. Once you figure out whether its fire or fuel, you're halfway there. If it's no spark, it's likely a failing condenser.

The purpose of such tools is not to set the shoe-drum clearance. The tool is meant to use on non-self centering brakes, where the first adjustment is to make sure the shoes are centered in the drum. There is an eccentric on the non-centering brakes that allows this centering adjustment that is adjusted while this open-drum tool is used. After centering using the open-drum tool, it is removed and the running drum is replaced and the fine adjusters are used to take up clearance as the drum is rotated to feel and hear the shoes drag.

The house looks like it would go for around $900,000.00 in our neck of the woods, and have several bidders!

Carburetor base gasket. There are air passages in the intake manifold that match up to passages in the base of the carburetor. The carburetor base gasket has cutouts to allow these passages to flow.

What specification has changed to require a lower volume of fuel in the float bowl?

Check to make sure the carburetor base gasket is not covering any passages.

Check battery voltage, then start the car, check the output voltage at the generator, then at the regulator. You need to see voltage greater than battery voltage.

WD-21's are great trucks. I've kept mine essentially original including the flatbed. It is a great hauler and easy to maintain. Parts are easier to get than for the 1/2 tons in many cases as they match the military items. Vintage Power Wagons and others have everything you'll need for all the running gear and brakes and suspension.

You are making a serious maintenance mistake if you are running an AGM battery with an old battery charger or maintaining charger meant for flooded cell batteries. The Optima battery is AGM and you will shorten its life considerably by not using a modern charger or trickle charger specifically designed for the charge profile of an AGM battery. Check the manufacturers requirements for re-charging and follow them to the letter. You will be surprised at the difference in life and charge level a proper charge cycle will make.

A pretty sure way to determine if you are sucking oil past the valve guides is to check the oil (blue smoke) coming out of the exhaust: - If you get lots of smoke on acceleration, it is likely your rings are not seated correctly. - If you get lots of smoke on deceleration (more than on acceleration), you are pulling oil past the valve guides. It's sort of a mystery why the lifters might not pump up if you've got good oil pressure.