ChrisRice

I wish I would've seen this sooner. I hate that I missed such a big show so close to home? Did y'all catch a lot of the cruising the coast crowd?

If you're shoes have brake fluid on them then the cylinders are leaking. Or it is leaking on the line in the back of the cylinder and down onto the shoes. The shoes should be dry and free of fluid in order to be effective. The fluid on the shoes decreases the friction that is used to stop the car. As far as the dragging, it sounds like the need to be re-adjusted. And as far as pulling one side to the other, the re-adjustment may help with that as well.

I sent in the form, $45, and bill of sale from when I bought it since there is to title and I hadn't registered it yet. Very pleased with what I got back from them.

Welcome PontiacGuy. I cant answer that question, but wanted to welcome you to thew forum. I also have a Plaza wagon, with overdrive (mine is a 55). Congrats on wanting to keep it primarily stock.

Easy to replace that wire. Make sure to tape the old to the new and then pull the new wire through. It will save some time.

Looks great

Sounds like resistance inline somewhere

If a digital version is ok, i can give you a link to one. Nevermind, I dont have one for 1949.

The Dodge one is for a Meadowbrook and Wayfarer.

Both are left fender moldings for a 1950 car. 1335656 is a Chrysler fender molding and 1335283 is for a Dodge. Source: http://ricebrosplymouth.com/parts.php?t=p&s=1335283 And http://ricebrosplymouth.com/parts.php?t=p&s=1335656 and google. No information about either was found in the 1950-1065 MoPar mechanical and body parts interchange manual.

I used the Chrysler service, and was thrilled with the results I got from them. They even sent me more information then just the build card and decoding. Well worth the cost IMO.

Does it have a part number on it anywhere?

HISTORICAL PRESERVATION OF ORIGINAL FEATURES (HPOF) CLASS - Since its’ founding, AACA has been dedicated to the preservation, restoration and maintenance of vehicles. In the furtherance of the “preservation” mission, the AACA Board of Directors in 1987 established a program to encourage the saving and display of collector vehicles in their original, as-manufactured condition. The Historical Preservation of Original Features program encourages owners of vehicles 35 years old and older, retaining significant original features to allow them to remain in this original condition, and to show them at National Meets. A vehicle may be entirely “original” or it may have certain “original” features such as paint, chassis, upholstery, engine compartment, etc., that are essentially as delivered. These vehicles will not be point judged. They will be certified using a percentage system which includes a total average percentage of the original features of the exterior, interior, chassis and engine. The vehicle must receive a score of sixty-five percent (65%) or above to receive certification. They will be recognized at the awards ceremony and will receive an exhibition award (and a mounting board at first certification). A certification badge will be presented to each vehicle upon acceptance into the HPOF category. The badge should be mounted at some visable location on the front of the vehicle. Vehicles entering the HPOF category will be prohibited from future registration in any other competition or exhibition class. If the vehicle is restored, certification in HPOF category will be voided. No previous National First Prize winners are accepted. An HPOF certified vehicle that is significantly restored will lose its’ HPOF certification. HPOF certification remains with the vehicle even if there is a change of ownership.

Yes that is the 602 radio, and yes it is correct for a 1946 Special Deluxe

Mine is the 4 door wagon and steering is surprisingly easy. Mine also does not have power steering but drives almost as easily as one that does.

You mention decoding the vin on this car to see how it came from the factory. This is not possible on the same way it would be from newer cars. The "VIN" does not have identifying information as it relates to options. The engine number can be matched to the car year and make. You can however get the information on how your car came from the factory including engine number, paint colors, transmission, etc. from Chrysler Historical Services ( http://www.chryslergroupllc.com/company/Heritage/Pages/Build-Records.aspx ). The price from them is $45 your your year car and includes a copy of the build card as well as decoding of the information on the card. It takes about 4-6 weeks to recieve. I got it done for my car and I think it was well worth the money spent as I can now prove my car is numbers matching (all components match with date codes on them and engine number and transmission match, etc.)

I run 225 75 15 on my '55 Plaza with no clearence issues at all.

yes one at the very front and one at the very back will leak coolant out. i just removed mine the other day.

1120569 also matches for a Dodge 1946-1948 distributer.

I would imagine if you give it a slight tug on that side it may pull it out enough to clear. I am also interested in knowing the correct way to remove so I can pull mine off for derusting and paint prep as well.

My guess would be a weak coil. It's a good and cheap place to start.

What measurements do you need? These pics are from my 55 plymouth wagon 4 door. This is an original honeycomb radiator for this car marked on backside with CDDP Ab (using the chrysler, dodge, plymouth, desoto marking)... I'm not sure what the ab stands for.

Don, you seem to have a picture for everything.

Hmmm. I just changed to brass because a lead one broke. Maybe I need to change back to lead ones.

I have tried from the key as well as from the starter solenoid and directly to the starter itself. Also battery and starter wires are 2 gauge.