ChrisRice

The new cylinders didn't come with pins, so I cleaned up and greased the old ones and am using those. The shoes are the same size and fit the drum well. My son pointed out that I didn't have the spring on, so we put it on... No help there. We took the major adjustment pins out and pushed the bottoms of the shoes in and the drum fit. The cylinders are bigger then the old, but it is the part number that everybody seems to agree is right for this car. So is it an adjustment issue, a cylinder issue, a shoe issue, or an owner issue? I have this problem on both sides. images of shoe in drum, and old shoe on top of new shoe. And yes, I know the drum still needs to be turned.

I'm about ready to sell this car. The brakes are being extremely stubborn. I bought new brake lines, master cylinder, rear T junction, brake shoes, wheel cylinders, and rubber lines. I cannot find part number for a replacement T for the front. Also when I put the new shoes on (from oldmoparts) and the new cylinder on (Dorman W32555) the drum won't fit over it. Major and minor adjustment screws have been turned to allow shoes to come all the way in. The shoes are hitting the bottem of the cylinder. The cylinder seems too big, and is bigger then what came off of the car. I bought them from rock auto. All other sites list the same part number. Any ideas on what is going on here?

I can't chime in on the resistors part. My car was purchased with one on it, but still had all the 6 volt wiring. Maybe the guy I bought it from was using 12v on it? I'm not sure, but it's back to 6 volt now. You can have my old one if you want it. Nice car, and welcome to the forum; good to see another Alabama forum member.

Welcome to the Plaza wagon club.

Don, so do I. But it's nice to know where to find the stuff I will need to buy later on.

I often watch things on my to do list to find them easily later. Then I prioritize.

I often watch things on my to do list to find them easily later. Then I prioritize.

I'm glad non ethanol is readily available in my area.

I was able to find the rear one in my parts manual, but not the front one

I was able to find the rear one in my parts manual, but not the front one

I'm trying to find brake junction blocks for my car. The rear block appears to be part #1118161. I can not find the part # in my book for the front one, oldmoparts said it was #1141172, but that's not listed in my book, and appears to be a part # for 49-54 models. In either case, I can't find anyone who can get those parts. Help verifying the part # or someone who has them please. For a 55 plymouth.

Oldmoparts.com has them. $45 I believe.

That's a sharp looking car. I hope you get many years of joy out of it.

I said starter solenoid, but what I meant was ignition coil. I have edited it to be correct. I'm sorry, too many things going through my head at once. Hopefully my question makes more sense now.

Ever since I was first able to start my car, I have had the ignition coil hooked directly to the battery. ( I know it's a bad idea, and has to be disconnected to turn off the engine). I have been working on turning it off of the key. I hooked the ignition coil wire back to the horn relay, and noticed the voltage coming from it is only about 1.6v. Is this correct? I'm not certain how much power it should put out. Can anyone help?

Welcome to the suburban club

I'm sure it does. I'll try my best not to do that. What a horrific view.

Paul, I value the same things. I just built my add on for my shop. Now to run the electric and internet to it. My collection of actual tools is growing as is my knowledge thanks to this forum. Car is going slow, but going still. My son starting taking the body to bare metal and removing old bondo. I have to get my welding equipment soon so that I can start the body work. I just got the car insured. I will register it soon and can begin road tests as soon as I finish replacing the brake system. Looks like the car had a master cylinder from an early 60s plymouth on it based on the part number on it. It will be replaced instead of rebuilt. I finally got the brake blocks loose but one of the fittings broke off in one. I'll try to use an easy out to get it out so I can reuse those.

What is the engine number. That will tell what year it really is. A 1947 would start with P15. Oddly enough from the quick research I did, so did the 1948. Maybe someone with more knowledge will chime in here and clarify it. A p15s is a deluxe and a p15c is a special deluxe. I can't give info on Canadian models.

Tried to insure the car through Hagertyy so that I would have insurance while test driving. The won't insure it because it's not kept in an enclosed garage. Um have they seen the pictures? Oh well, I will find someone else.

Glad that could help you. I still have a similar problem, can shift into first and reverse though. First works, but no reverse.. Any ideas anyone?

Sounds about like mine.

There were 329,202 produced. If that is rare, what is mine (only 10,500 produced)? Shame on seller. I've noticed most rare cars I see being sold are not so rare.

Hey Phil, if you come across a chrome price for the front of the hood can you let me know. I've been searching for one for my 55 plaza suburban.

I can't wait to see a response either. My h shift pattern has 1,2,3 but no reverse. I was told from previous owner that it was a linkage issue.