Andydodge

JD....where did you get the oil filler tube finned cap?......I have looked around for one and can't find anything that has the right size fitting.........thanks, andyd

What dog & car?.........I can see independant front & rear ends tho'.............

My 40 Dodge sedan uses 54 Plymouth stub axles, 1 coil cut from mid 50's Ford coil springs, 14 x 6" mags with 195 x 14 radials, with 295 x 15 tyres on the back, has a fair rake, the front engine pipes (V8) scrape sometimes but as its had the V8 etc since 1973 I'm getting used to it now......lol......andyd

Norm thanks for the info..........did you know Albert?......lol....andyd in Oz........running for cover......lol

Tim, thanks for the reply, what I was wanting to know was whether the actual valves, springs, and bearings were the same from 42-59, or ideally these parts are the same whether its a car 230 or an industrial 230, I've got 20 thou over pistons/rings lined up, but I can't find anything that says that the car/industrial 230 engine had any diferences apart from maybe those ancillaries that bolted on.......theres a guy in Turkey that has some good deals on these parts on ebay USA at present so that why I'm asking.........andyd

Do Plymouth 201/218/230 engines all use the same size intake/exhaust valves?, ie from 1941 -59, also apart from under/oversize dimensions are the main/big end and cam bearings all the same, what about valve springs, are they all the same..........I have a 230 fork lift/industrial engine.......as far as I know internally they are the same as the car engines apart from maybe compression, but I'm replacing the pistons anyway.......but can anyone comment on the comparision between the car and industrial engines?........btw I'm in Australia and the 230's are not that common here so I am using what I could find, an ex airport tug 230, this is going in a P11 Coupe.......thanks andyd

I have an Oz D15 4dr sedan that has brass plates, both front and back, I have also seen alloy ones that get damaged more easily, my Dodge is Plymouth based as thats what 95% of the Oz Dodges were so maybe try to see if a Plymouth part might fit.......btw there s a pic of my Dodge & P11 coupe on www.scaleautomobilia.com.au ......on the About Us page.........regards, andyd

Kiwi, I'd clean the whole thing up as there maybe a spline/whatever thats hidden, but its possible that the arm is just pressed onto the shafts on either side or even welded, but with that bolt on the outer part it does look like it should come apart somehow.......have seen plenty of these type of things on GM and pommy stuff but didn't know mopar was cursed by them also, good luck, let us know what happens.........andyd in Oz

Thats an interesting question.......theres a bolt on the outer(wheel)end/side, would that undo, then use a puller to pull the other end of the arm off a splined(?) shaft coming outa the shock absorber?.........just a guess as without seeing the way the arms fit onto the shock shafts I'd be guessing......I only have workshop manuals from 1936.........sorry can't offer more advice........andyd in Oz

Point taken about the rivets but considering that I renewed the 1940 Dodge channel and whiskers about 1975 and used rivets then and they are still there without a problem I think I am justified in using them again in the Plymouth..........lol........by the time they are buggered I expect to be buggered also so its a moot point really...lol.........andyd

Yrs ago I repainted a Triumph Spitfire sportscar for a mate, lots of rust repairs, etc, turned out pretty good, about a month after it was finished he resumed the habit of late night fast runs thru a national park that was nearby to clean out the cars' and his cobwebs..........he hit a deer one night.......took the hood clean off the Spitfire(they were similar setup to a jag e type, the whole hood/fender unit pivoted from the front)......the deer then hit the windscreen frame................did I mention that this was a convertible Triumph Spitfire?........no?........it was.....after hitting the windscreen frame, said deer then shattered the windscreen and ended up in the passenger seat beside my mate........by this stage the deer was not a well deer, in fact it was a dead deer.......this fact was apparent due to the blood and guts that said dead deer spread all over the Triumphs interior, floor, dash, windscreen and rear deck.........the deer was a write-off and so was the Triumph Spitfire........luckily my mate was o/k..........tho he did need to purchase new underwear........a true story.......lol..........andyd

I paid $1.55 per litre this morning here in Australia, @ 4.25 litres per Oz gallon thats $6.58 per imperial gallon.....dunno what that is in US gallons.......this was for basic unleaded crap fuel......and its $1.70 per litre for the 98 octane I put in the 40 Dodge(318 V8 etc).......oh joy, oh fun.........lol.......andyd

I got my T5 gearbox from Jerry Turner's in Fresno, was very helpful over the phone, and sent it promptly to a mate in Long Beach...........btw I'm in Oz.....100% recomend him.

Norm..........do you do housecalls........my P11 is due for a service........lol........thanks, andyd

Pat S had the right idea tho.........when we go to the craper here in Oz we have to wipe right to left...........lol.......otherwise it generates too much static electricity.........and with the available methane..............not a pretty sight..........lol.......kaboom!!

love the billet style dash insert.........lol........the custom built gear shift, the fine craftsmanship in the way the top radiator hose hooks up..........lol......words fail me........lol......still its better than being scrapped.

BTW, I should have mentioned that you need to remove the inside window surround the get enough clearance to access the door edge, also do the inside window surround side with that piece on a bench or table, use a new, SHARP drill bit, and I found that a small lightweight drill worked fine as whilst I have a you-beaut big drill you need to be fairly precise when drilling the door edge and a lightweight drill will make it easier, at least thats what I found, I also remembered that I used vice grips and some small clamps to hold the whisker in postion on the door edge when drilling.

When i bought my "restored" 41 P11 coupe there were no side "whiskers" in either door, and the channel part whilst there was not fixed properly and moved, I firstly pop riveted the channel back into the door, then cut the whisker pieces to length and bent them at the rear edge into the channel, also had to trim part of the "whisker" away to enable it to fit inside the channel between the channel and door, then pop riveted it into the door edge and the window surround, used 1/8th alloy rivets, they won't rust and theres no need for hi strength here......I was able to get to the door edge outer piece and instal it by winding the window all the way down which gave enough clearance to access the door edge.......then used a black pen to colour the rivets so they couldn't be seen, think I used about6, one every 4-5".

Yeh, I thought as much, have got all the oil plugs out, will take these out tonite and then its off to the boiler........steamed block.............yum......andyd

To give yourself the best chance to learn to oxy weld, get some new steel strap, say 18-20 gauge cut at a local sheet metal shop into small lengths, then practice on nice new metal, make sure you have clean tips, are in a comfortable postion, have the pieces held so that they don't move, etc.......and just practice, practice and more practice, as for doing bodywork, thats when it may pay to try and see if theres a course available thru a local college/tech or whatever, but again, just practice.......I did a course yrs ago thru my local tech college.......was worth doing and if you hunt around there are courses available........have fun, andyd

The only things on the 230 block now are the 2 plugs at the rear that are located behind the flywheel and one plug at the front inside the timing cover........one of the plugs at the rear I think is at the end of the cam gallery, the other rear and front plugs are water jacket plugs I think.......is it o/k to remove these then get the block boiled/dipped etc?.........I can't find any reference to any of these plugs in the various mopar workshop manuals I have so am I right in assuming that they come out in the same manner as the normal 5 on the dissy side of the block?.......thanks, andyd

Just mainly issues regarding it being the son of a thousand fathers, that type of thing.........lol.....of course I did try sane reasoning at first, then insane reasoning, threats with large metal objects, small metal objects..........etc, etc....but finally it was insertion of long thin blunt bolts into the intake exhaust manifold bolt holes, gentle then not so gentle tapping of these same thin bolts against it, then VERY LARGE metal screwdrivers inserted at an angle into its side and leaverage against the opening that finally convinced it to move..........you should have seen it........reduced a grown man to tears...........well...... when one screwdriver slipped and wedged my finger .......lol......I will dream nice dreams tonight.......lol........andyd

I've used both small phillips head screws and pop rivets, both located into the metal behind the Bailey Channel..............both work well, also used pop rivets to hold the single sided "fuzzy" stuff to the top of the door opening and inside window surround, then just hit the pop rivet with a black marker pen(sharpie(?) you yanks call them) to cover up the shiney rivet head.......works a treat.....

Thats the only redeeming feature of RHD, our accelerator linkage is much more straight forward, no crossover/bellcrank setup.....theres a rod that comes out of the floor from the gas pedal, straight up to the springloaded linkage and thats it......

I've decided to keep it, gunna hang it up on the wall and throw things at it........lol.....still not sure whether to get a brass one from the States or my mate has offered to make one up outa stainless, he has a folder and TIG so might go that way.........but at least now I can get the work started on the block.