Andydodge

Well pigs do indeed fly.........have been trying on & off over the past 6mths or more to remove the water tube outa the 230 I have, its resisted all removal attempts including hooks,oil,WD40, nice sweet nothings in its ear, vice grips, slap hammer with hook attached, metal strip with hook cut into it, cursing and discussions of its parentage.........called a mate who is a mechanic and we had another go at it today.......finally got the mongrel thing to move using very large screwdrivers wedged from either side at an angle in the front opening and levered it out.......it came out in one piece, very rusty but at least now I can start getting the block machined/bored etc.........thank for all the ideas and assistance, regards, Andy Douglas

Remember that the studs are 3/8 UNC one end and 3/8 UNF the other(outer) end.

Eric, worn kingpins are replaced, get a kingpin set which will include the bushes that generally wear the most that are a press fit into the stub axle, then the new king pin is reamed fit into the bushes, then reassemble the axle onto the upright, make sure that whoever does the bush installation ensures that the grease hole in the bush lines up with the hole in the stub axle side.....pressing the bushes into the stub axle requires a hydraulic press and a correctly sized set of reams but apart from that so long as you have the tools to pull the front end apart it not a difficult job, messy.......but thats the "fun" part......get a workshop manual as they detail what to do in them.....

Gidday, I'm in sunny Sth Grafton NSW, where are ya?......have a 1940 Oz Dodge Sedan and 1941 Sth African Plymouth Coupe..........andyd

Just got the latest Rodders Journal, #41 today and theres a 12 page feature on a very nice 1947 P15 plymouth Coupe, pale blue, lowered, twin carbed 6......worth a look....andyd

Do it yourself........just get a pair of house bricks, one in each hand, ready, aim, wack!!!...........lol.......just make sure to keep your thumbs outa the way tho when holding the bricks as you might wack them instead........lol........I had it done yrs ago.......did a head count of offspring, and seating postions in the car......3 was the number, so after 3 kids..........wack!.........lol.........or you could do what a guy I read about in the local paper did........had an argueemnt with his missus, she left, he went to the shed, got his Stanley trimming knife, gave himself a do-it-yourself vasectomy/castration.......after a few days when he couldn't stop the bleeding went to the local hospital.......lol........a few days!!!..........lol........you'd hope it was a sharp blade in the Stanley knife.......dunno if I'd like to have a 2nd go.......lol..........regards, andyd

You shouldn't have to touch the inner fender panels, a 273 -360 mopar V8 should clear the stock steering if you take your time in mounting it , you may have to have it higher than if you change the steering but the V8 should clear everything......make sure you use a rear sump oil pan for stock steering/tie rod clearance......also the rear mounted dissy might require a small firewall indent/adjustment but not by much.....mount the battery in the boot for extra clearance also, looks much tidyier........andyd

All are good ideas, it comes down to what you really want , can afford and can do.......I've had a 318 poly in my 1940 dodge since 1973, personally wouldn't recomend a poly to anyone but at the time it was all I could find here in Oz, if I was doing it again I'd put a 318/340/360 in, update the brakes, maybe the steering, diff and there you go......but as an example of not following what I preach I'm putting a 230 in the 41 plymouth coupe i have, its an older resto so am leaving the paint/trim as is but a 230, T5, edgy head, twin carbs, disc brakes, lowered, chromies & radials are the goal....... so really its your choice, all your options look o/k, just depends what you decide.........regards, andyd

Rob, good to see another Kiwi in West Island.........tho' there are better places than bananaland........lol........seriously tho' welcome aboard, these are a great bunch here, lots of info, not too uppitty and always prepared to offer help and advice........btw I'm in sunny Sth Grafton NSW, if you haven't already I'd suggest joining the Chrysler Restorers Club, even tho my cars are rodded its still a worthwhile thing to be in, anyway, nice car, regards, Andy Douglas

When I went to look at my 1940 Dodge Sedan back in 1971, the guy that opened the house door said, " oh yeh man, you must mean Sebastion, ........err what I said, Sebastion man, the car man".......whilst my reply wasn't "peace,love,dope,Hari Krishna".......I ended up buying "Sebastion"..........for $15.00......we beat him down from $40.00........lol.......yep, there is a bit of Scottish in the family.........lol.......I generally refer to the Dodge as the "Brown Turd"........Sebastion seems a bit too uppitty for me.........lol......Andy(tightwad) Douglas

Whilst I haven't seen any US/canadian LHD headlight lenses to make a genuine comparision the difference would probably be in the angle of the actual flutes molded into the lense itself, so that the light beam is directed more to the RHD passenger side of the road........using a LHD lens in a RHD car would shoot more light into the eyes of oncoming traffic......and conversely using a RHD lens on a LHD car would shoot more light into the LHD concoming car....this is why even today, late model/new cars for RHD/LHD have different lenses, ie lense part numbers........andyd

The RHD setup is basically mirror reversed to the US LHD as far as the shift H pattern, the steering box lives between the oil & fuel pumps, accelerator linkage is much simpler, clutch linkage is mirror reversed, we have never had a foot starter in cars as far as I know, its always been the key ignition then a starter button on the right hand side of the dash, also vaccum wipers have not been very common in Oz mopars,I had never seen one till I bought my 41 Plymouth Coupe which is supposedly a factory RHD Sth African car, Oz factory workshop manuals don't even mention vaccum wipers at all.........my car has the hood release still under the left side of the dash tho'.....andyd

My 1940 Dodge Sedan with the single 4 barrel Holley 318 Poly/cast iron auto and 3.23 gears got 21/22 mpg yrs ago on a long trip, it included some long flat stretches and late night/early evening cool temp driving.........but as these are as aerodynamic as housebricks my normal driving of the sedan would be 15-18mpg, as for the 41 Plymouth Coupe which has the original 6, I'd be happy with anything over 15 mpg also........andyd

A good hint/tip is to paint the inside of the dash a pale colour such as white or light grey, makes things much easier to see........andyd

I'd love a set of the cast iron Fenton repops also but just where the front header dumps is where the Oz RHD steering box lives........right between the oil and fuel pumps.......that gap you Yanks have is taken up by the RHD steering box on my 41 Plymouth Coupe............buggar.....lol......andyd

The Offy twin intake should come with various brackets, bits of linkage and pipe and hose connections to adapt the twin carbs to the single pipe, well mine did, so if the intake comes in the Offy box you should get the extra bits, I'd wait till it arrives or check with Tom Langdon.....andyd

A Collector?.........nah both the 40 Dodge Sedan & the 41 Plymouth Coupe are hotrods.......thats what I'd rather be......a hot rodder........or.......A LUMBERJACK........dah dah.......I'm a lumberjack & I'm o/k, sleep all night and I work all day........He's a lumberjack and ........ I wish I was a girlie just like my dear papa..........oops........wrong post......lol...........andyd........just don't call me a collector....

Those are the C Pillar grab handle strap holders, they are the same as whats on my Australian 1940 Dodge D15 Sedan(Plymouth based) so I'd say they are at least 1940 US Mopar, maybe earlier.........andyd

Nice wagon.........that colour appears to be the same as my 1940 Dodge Sedan was when bought in 1971, I have never seen that colour on any other 1940/41 Mopar since and as I painted my 1940 Dodge a late 60's Oz valaint Mahogany Metallic, thats the 1st time I've seen that colour since the repaint......how common is that colour?.....andyd

Turn the radio up a bit louder?..........lol..........drop the pan 1st, then decide.........depends whether you like the sidey that badly......andyd

I called the plugs "flat" as compared to those used from the 1960's onwards in "modern" cars.......but they do have curvature to them, as for a pressure washer, if you can get it angled in towards the open hole then it should help, tho' it might make it even messier......lol......andyd

Scott........the "ease" of replacing the plugs is inversely related to the plugs location.....lol........and where they are and whether you can get easy access to them, the plugs aren't so much the problem but its the dissy, starter, generator, oil filter etc that can be in the way which make replacing the plugs such a fun filled time, measure them, am pretty sure they are 1 &5/8" and have the new ones on hand b4 starting this most enjoyable pastime........lol.......btw don't suppose you wanna fly over to Australia to help me remove the water tube in a 230 block I have?........lol..............andyd

Original mopar style welch/freeze plugs are flat, not concave, use a small cold chisel or old screw driver to remove the plugs, clean out the crud thats behind them in the block and reinstall 1 &5/8" (from memory)size plugs....clean the plug "seat" in the block, use a little gasket cement/goo around the seat, then place the new plug in/on the seat and hit firmly with a hammer & brass drift or large bolt, say 7/16" diameter to flatten out the plug in the centre causing it to expand & lock into its seat in the block..........try and find brass plugs, they don't rust out......andyd

John, what sort of front brakes do you have?.......if you have discs then you should be running a pressure limiting/residual valve on the rear lines, as most dual circuit master cylinders will either have one built in or there would have been one on the original rear line to the Cuda rear end, as discs use much higher line pressure and rear drums without the valve will lock up. If you have drums all round then is the master cylinder from a disc brake system?......as again it would have higher pressure then an all drum brake system cylinder........andyd

Not sure how to answer that question other than to say that you can do a search for posts by me, Andy Douglas in the past 2days on the Spotlight Hobbies Message Board and that should work, or just scroll down till you see my question that I posted then open the 2 answers, my question is just below one thats titled "Mopar Sunday".........trust this helps, andyd