Andydodge

Kiwi, just checked my John Lee Standard catalog of Chrysler and it doesn't list a De Soto with a 6 after 1954......but its for USA stuff, the Canuks did some strange things like we did in Oz, so maybe the fellow Empire lads above the border maybe able to help.......pip,pip and tally ho eh what.......lol.....andyd

Your best bet for the chrome strip would be to join the local/national mopar clubs, ebay, Hemmings, check the various swap meets, post a want add on this Forum, I've got no 41 Plymouth Coupe spare moldings, but have a heap of 1940 Dodge 4dr sedan ones, only thing is they are to suit the Oz, Plymouth based Dodge, see the pic above........andyd

Thats gotta be a neat setup, have never seen an exhaust manifold like that, I have an industrial ex airport tug 230 that I am working on for my 41 coupe and the exhaust is the same a the normal car type, that turbo setup gives me ideas...........lol........thanks for posting it......andyd

Don, the setup that you are using in theory would work, but I think the plates bolted between the wheels bolts should be at least 3/8thick, if not more.......the proper puller bolts onto 3 of the bolts and usually have a VERY LARGE centre nut that you screw onto the protruding axle end after the centre nut is undone a couple of turns BUT left on to protect the thread and, then once the centre nut on the puller is done up onto the axle end and about as tight as you can get it you give the outer end of the pullers centre nut an almighty wack and it should jar the brake drum off, if not you do it up a little more tighter then another WACK on the outer end of the bolt to jar it off.........years ago when I got my 40 dodge I tried every way to get the rear drums off, finally was told about these "tapered axle pullers" and got me one........best money i ever spent, your neighbour has the right idea but I don't think its heavy duty enough.........lol........good luck........andyd

LOL.......................burp................it did...........lol.........andyd

Norm..........have just had 2/3rds of a bottle of Merlot.....the bride had the remaining 1/3rd.....hic....went well with the grilled salmon & vegies..........lol........its called a "cleanskin", it says on the bottle, "2004 Cabernet Merlot South Eastern Australia", so it could be from anywhere........lol......enjoyed your reply.......lol......I have only wacked the steel strip in halfway, but it maybe in for a further pounding........lol.........ah.......Mopars........pox ridden mongrel bastards......and I say that only after 37yrs..........lol......andy(hic)d........

James & Neil........feel like a trip to Australia?..........I'll put the coffee & donuts on........or beer if you prefer........the funny(well not really) thing is that it looks like its in good condition, not overly rusty, but it will not move, I've pored WD40, engine oil etc down it, squirted same thru the manifold stud holes, also down a couple of head bolt holes that lead into the water jacket, have gently pushed/hammered 1/8 x 1/2 steel strip down each side to about halfway, have made a hole in the front of the tube and hooked a "J" shaped metal hook into it and tried gentle levering, not so gently levering and downright bloody vigourous levering and all it does is straighten out the 5/16" hooked hook......short of attaching the hook to the engine hoist and lifting the block by the tube I don't know what else to do..........so what flight do you guys intend to be on?............lol.......Andy(watertube)Douglas

I have an bare engine block on an engine stand, the water tube is the only thing in/on the block and the mongrel thing still won't come out.........lol........so my advice is unless you absolutely have to try and get the thing out, don't.........its just a vicious rumor that they can be removed.........lol........but I still keep tryin'.....andyd

Shel, yep thats the sucker, lol.........they apparently were an option, my cars got one on the back so I could move it to the front, but then the back bumper would start whining & complaining........lol........anyway am in no hurry, if you see one I'd be interested.......thanks, andyd

Shel, I am looking for a 41 plymouth front or rear overrider, also the sheet metal panel that fits in front of the radiator and hood latch panel, it has the horns hanging from it, don't want the horns, just the panel.......thanks, andyd

This selection of bits came up on ebay, the ebay number is 380030431803.........does anyone recognise these bit?.........especially the clock.......lol........thanks, andyd

Does anyone know whether the clocks used in 40's Mopars are essentially the same, ie , I have a 41 Plymouth and ideally would like to get a clock from a 41 plymouth to put in the dash, but have seen clocks and dashboard pics on the net for later 40's Mopars that do appear to have a rectangular style clock......has anyone had the chance to compare whether they all are the same size?......I have a nice chromed "boring" blockoff plate where the clock should go and am curious about what options I might have.......thanks, andyd

Thanks guys......Jerry, I have thought about getting it converted, there is a guy about 2000kms away who does it, I've spoken to him a couple of times but it is about $1500.00...........more than I can find or justify, but from what he says it will be the bees knees....lol........its just that I would really like to fill the dash with an original radio face, the blockoff plate looks very boring.......also would like to get an original style clock, even a later model one, so long as it fits the dash and looks o/k........anyway thanks for the input, andyd

When I bought my Plymouth it had been converted to 12volt, negative earth, however it came with an uninstalled Mopar 602 6volt postive earth radio which apparently has been reco'd. I have used voltage drop/resistors on fuel guages but am not real sure whether these would be suitable.......has anyone had experience in using a 6v radio in a 12 system?.....is there any foolproof way to ensure 12volts don't get to the radio as its not easily replaceable here in Oz, also its postive earth.......will that be an issue as the cars negative earth......thanks, andyd

They would all be based or mastered from the AMT 1941 Plymouth Coupe, which would be the donor kit for parts not included in the resin kits.....I have a hobby shop, Scale Automobilia and specialise in 1/24-25th plastic kits, resin conversions(mainly Australian stuff)......the shop website is www.scaleautomobilia.com.au ........regards, andyd

Dash is definately 1941 Plymouth, also tailight shape looks like it is too.......andyd

Bobby, yours appears almost luxurious compared to Merle's.......why you appear to have a proper seat!!.....is yours the DeLuxe model?.........lol......seriously tho' I'll give you an encouragement award at least.........lol...........andyd

Merle...........just sitting here peeing myself..........lol.........now THATS a hiboy.........lol.......regards, andyd

Tony, the Gemini is about the smallest production one thats available but I'm thinking that I may have to run a VH40/44 style remote booster but am not sure whether these are suitable for a 4wheel discs setup, am noway near doing any of this as yet, but am collecting bits and pieces and info.......am not a great fan of 1941 drum brakes.....andyd

Glendale and Frank what is the setup you are refering to?.......is there a pic anywhere?, also Pat that pic you attached is interesting in that there is no booster, I will have to run a booster as I will be running 4 wheel discs, and unboosted they are not good.........and Tony....lol........I AM a hotrodder........lol.......tho' now I'm trying to rod the thing but still leave some bits stock.......lol.........andyd

Tony, thats a nice coupe, I had a 48 Windsor 4dr sedan in the mid 70's, we(Oz) apparently got a couple for Govt use back in the 40's, however I hadn't ever seen a real one till I got mine, weird thing was that it had a pair of tailights on each side at the rear instead of just one and apart from various spares in the boot it had 4 spare tailights also so there was at least 4 of the suckers here in Oz, I was in Sydney at the time, since then there have been a few coupes arrive in Oz and a few sedans have surfaced, I still have a piece of the wraparound grille spear which I forgot to give to the guy I sold it to......was a good original goer, just outa rego, but had NSW plates so I delivered it 20kms to the guy who bought it........young and silly I was.....andyd

I intend to put vented discs on the front of my 41 Coupe, my 40 dodge runs 4wheel discs but uses later pendant pedals with the booster/master cylinder thru the firewall....because I'll be running twin carbs on the 6 in the coupe I can't have the same booster/master cylinder setup as the dodge uses as the master cylinder will hit the rear carb(RHD remember)..........so if you are running discs what master cylinder/booster do you run, ie, is there a way to fit the m/c/booster onto the original brake pedal setup oon the chassis?...........thanks, andyd

I actually used a similar setup on my 40 Dodge sedan for about 30yrs.......here in Oz I used a 1962 Oz Chrysler Royal(same as US 1955/6 Plymouth) diff, I perservered with the original rear brakes for a couple of yrs till about 1977 after putting vented disc brakes on the front in 1975 till I decided to use 1970 Oz Valiant front rotors which I mounted onto the rear tapered axle brake drums' hub.......the hub that holds the brake drum onto the tapered axle is held onto the drum with rivets, I removed the rivets, threw the drum away, which left me with the hub, I then had the hub machined so that it would fit inside the front disc rotor(this was the type that had a separate disc "hat", the bearing hub could be unbolted from the rotor) ......this was held onto the original mopar hub by 2 contersunk allen screws, and the rotor was redrilled to the Dodge bolt pattern then Ford F100(I think) 1/2 inch wheels studs were pressed thru the hub protruding from the rotor, the rotor/hub was then bolted onto the tapered axle and held with the large centre nut as per normal mopar tapered rear axle practice. I then used Oz Ford Falcon rear disc calipers and made a bracket that used 4 of the 5 bolt holes around the rear axle flange to hold the disc caliper on.......because the mopar rear end has a removable Hotchkiss style pumpkin and with the vented rear discs mounted my rear end fooled a lot of people into thinking it was a super hi dollar Ford 9" rear.........lol.....I had it in the car from 1977 thru to 2006 when it spun an axle bearing for the 2nd time and I decided to put a 1991 Oz Falcon disc rear in it, which bolted straight in........but anythings possible......so give it a whirl.......andyd

Pete, just watched that clip.........brilliant!!........made me smile, thanks.........andyd

Ed & Pete.........who says only 32 Fords can be Hiboys......lol............like I said, I once was young and silly............now just silly.......lol.........its good to blow the cobwebs outa the system occaisonally.......andyd