Andydodge

Woodie, welcome to the Water Tube Club.......lol.......well done.......are you gunna complete your pain & suffering by taking out the welch plugs?.........lol.........if you take them out then the best thing would be to hose out the water tube passage and welch plug gallerys which should clean out just about all the mud & crud.........ain't old cars fun?........lol............andyd

Sounds like a case for some steel headers.......will go better and steel don't crack......well not as often as cast iron........o/k, will get back under my Oz rock.......andyd.

Hi there Big Boy!!!!!!.......Er..oops.......Fred.......lol......we have to stop meeting like this.........anyway back in 1975 I replaced the brakes in my Oz 1940 Dodge sedan with discs & hanging pedals........for some reason I kept the master cylinder pushrod,nut & end clevis piece.......I have checked the pics in the 1940 & 46-54 Plymouth Service manauls I have and the pics show the same pushrod, the 1940 Plymouth Parts Manual also shows a pic of a LHD brake/clutch linkage which is the same as the rhd one I have...........anyway if you want this just let me know, it would take approx 7-10 days to get to Germany........regards, andyd

Just got the August Rod & Custom magazine today, apologies if this has been mentioned before but the magazine arrives here in Oz about a month after the US, anyway theres a very nice Dark Blue 1948 P15 Plymouth Coupe, 4-5 page article, car runs a Red Ram Hemi & 5 speed.........some very nice pics, would scan but left the mag at work.........lol..............andyd

Fred........will see if I have one.........do you want to call in & pick it up.........oh.......thats right, you'd have to pack a cut lunch at least.....lol..........will see tonight what I have & get back......andyd

Fred........yep am back again.........been raining all day and still at it tonight......we need it tho' is good........re the thermostats, you know to stick them in a saucepan of water on the stove, ideally the spouse's best saucepan and throw the thermostat in to see if it opens........lol.........the nice brown stain on the good saucepan will impress the spouse no end.........lol................andyd

The only coating I could think that might work would be to have the pan anodised or cad plated, otherwise, paint the outside & wipe the inside with oil/grease depending on how long it will be before use.......andyd

Flatie46, yep would be fair to assume RHD as there doesn't appear to be a steering box/drag link on the left hand chassis rail as there would be if LHD........andyd

Fred, Carls suggestion re the thermostat...have you checked yours?......and Autonut has a point.........take off the hood then there are 2 x 5/8"th bolts on each side that screw into the radiator surround from under the fender about 1/2 way up the side of the radiator surround, also there are 2 X 3/4" nuts to undo that are on the 2 locating bolts at the bottom of the radiator surround, these 2 bolts go straight down thru the front chassis crossmember and are accessable thru the large hole in the front crossmember thats underneath, between the lower inner suspension pivots.....after undoing the 3/4" nuts the surround will be loose, also don't forget to undo the triangular sheetmetal piece that covers the area in front of the radiator top tank, these should be 7/16"th bolts..........check that there is no wiring(headlight?) caught on the hooks under the engine side of the top radiator tank, then with the hood off you should be able to lift(have a friend around to help as the radiator & surround is HEAVY) the radiator & surround straight up and out of the engine bay......NOTE that there should be 2 flat square washers about 2" square that the surround sits on the front crossmember......these are basically a "packing" washer from what I've seen BUT make sure to look for them & reuse them!!........lol........andyd

I stand corrected, 34 Stude it is........as for the body tho it maybe an Oz build but that hole is for the boot/trunk lid........andyd

Fred.........my Dodge has a 318 V8, twin point dissy so i assume you mean the Plymouth as it has the stock 6....I used to set the dissy where the #1 was at the compression stroke, at TDC, set the points and use a timing light to get it spot on...........now it has a Langdon HEI.......runs very well, set & forget.........andyd

Rocker........have checked a few books I have and the only thing I can come up with is 1934 Chrysler 6......the 5 horizontal chrome moldings are the same as what the 6 cylinder non Airflow Chryslers had tho' I am not real certain.......the 2nd pic shows that hole which is where a boot lid would have lived.........have you any info on what sort of engine?........or an engine/firewall/dash pic?........am pretty sure its not a pommy car............andyd

Fred, its 8.12pm Tuesday night here, you are 9hrs behind me, tho if your on daylight saving make that 8hrs........the Yanks are just thinking about waking up or dozing off(15-18hrs behind)........if you have obvious radiator problems then thats what I'd get fixed first, but while the radiator is out stick a hose in whatever orifice is open..........on the car at least .........lol..............andyd....8.15pm......lol

Woodie, yep, use the screwdrivers wedged against the tube on either side and push the end of the screwdriver so that its blade jams hard into each side of the tube, .........I'd used oil, WD40 by the bucket, made up a hook for a slide hammer to fit in a hole drilled in the side of the tube and still it wouldn't move....the screwdriver trick did work.........lol..........andyd.

Fred, b4 pulling the radiator I'd check ALL the hose connections, also the timing/etc........if all are o/k then as far as pulling the radiator goes , you have the same setup as I had /have with my Oz 1940 Dodge(Plymouth based, see pic).......undo the upper & lower radiator hoses, then take the hood off, you should be able to undo the radiator and remove it and still leave the radiator surround there(its what the fenders etc bolt onto).......depending on the fan clearance, the fan may need to be unbolted from the water pump the the radiator removed.......there is no need to remove the water pump unless it is the cause of the overheating.......btw all this assumes that the radiator IS THE CAUSE of the overheating........why not take the car to a radiator shop and get them to do a pressure test?...........or is there obvious leaks etc from the radiator?........AND you don't need to even think about the water tube unless and until you have boiled/cleaned out the cooling system and it still overheats, personally I think you have either a timing or radiator problem...... andyd

I finally got mine out by using a pair of the largest screw drivers inserted into the hole at an angle against each side of the tube and by pushing the screwdrivers back into the tube and "wedging" it out.........the use of various expletives, discussions of the water tubes parentage and things that you intend to do to it once it is out all help...........well they did help me........good luck with the mongrel thing.........see I still harbor evil thoughts even 12mths after dealing with the son of a thousand fathers................lol...........andyd

This is why I run 12 volts..........lol.........it works......lol.......hang on....just getting into my flameproof suit......right, got it on, zipped up........right, go your hardest!!....lol.......andyd

Thats a pity that you have replaced the factory Nascar trunk lid with the factory lightening holes.........lol.......looks like you had a win, its good when that happens......regards, andyd

Gidday from West Island............lol.........wheres the sheep?..........o/k......enough of the frivolity........lol........seriously tho' nice to see a Kiwi here, these guys are the best for helping and general info, a great bunch of mopar lovers, they even tolerate us aussies..........lol.......welcome aboard..........there is the Powerhouse truck side that might be more useful for specific truck questions but if you have a general question regarding stuff that was used in the cars then by all means shoot away, also don't forget to try the Technical listings and search parts of the forum........anyway welcome........I won't mention the cricket if you don't mention the rugby.........lol........regards, Andy Douglas

40PLMCZY........yep I've seen refrences to the fact that 1940 had the option of no running boards, and certainly 41 also, I'm in Oz and we wouldn't have had that option... it appears only in the Nth American market.....here in Oz?... count yourself lucky just to get 4 wheels by then as WW2 restrictions were in full swing....lol......andyd.

Mike, was good to speak to you yesterday morning......that post from Rockable is titled "The Last Straw", dated 5th July, its on the P15-D24 forum, and it has a couple of pics that might help .........andyd

Mike, heres a couple of pics of my 2 cars, I'll call you tonite your time.........andyd

Check this ebay auction...... 200499625551 it might be what you need.......andyd

Reg, have a look at the 55-57 Chev Nomad/Sedan Delivery tailgate handles, they should be very close and are available as repos......also if you know of any 1960's Morris/Austin Mini's as they used a similar handle.......andyd

Or is that a Heidts/Kugel rear end?............whatever it is its nice................andyd