Andydodge

Looks nice, got any pics of the Corvette rear end in there?......nice setup..........andyd

Theres a few pieces of 41 Plymouth sheetmetal on ebay at present........andyd

O/k........firstly, the grille thats there is actually the stock sheetmetal onto which the stainless strips attach.....what they have done is a fairly common trick, they leave all the stainless strips off and tidy up the actual sheetmetal pressings which is whats been done..........from the looks of it it would be a LOT of work to "restore" the current sheetmetal to its original configeration............finding the stock sheetmetal and then removing the fenders at the cowl would be the best, but whatever way you do this its a lot of work.........where are you?.........obviously in the USA but whats your phone number.........I talk better than I type.........I don't mind giving you a call.........btw whats your name........me?........i'm Andy Douglas.......andyd

Thanks Merle...............lol.........just wet meself..........lol.........brilliant.............andyd

Rock, I went for the race car look, mounted the tach on the top of the dash at an angle towards me so that I just have to glance at it to check shift points(did I just say all that??, talk about a wanker!) .........lol.......not that it makes much difference at this stage with the stock 95 needies throbbing underfoot........lol........andyd

How have the fenders been attached?.........originally they bolt on with bolts spaced about every 6-8" accessable from under the fender with captive nuts on the panel that goes up against the hood, the inner fender panel is held onto the line of bolts by some, think about every 2nd one going thru to the hood panel.........now if its had some "customising" it would be worth checking how the fenders have been attached, if you can't see the seam from the outside then there must have been some filler or putty used to cover the seam........which would have either been welded or brazed up then puttied over..........it might be worthwhile seeing if you can remove the putty either by grinding or gentle use of an oxy torch to heat the putty then scrape it off.....anyway how is the front sheetmetal attached at present?..........andyd........btw any pics?.....andyd.

Greg, good point, I'd forgotten about the wheel arch shape........might restrict what you can do.........andyd

Dylan, welcome to the forum from Australia, nice to see someone getting a start on mopars, have you got a workshop or service manual?.........as Don mentioned the crank gear should just slip on, the important thing is to get the timing marks aligned..........is the engine still in the car? also have you removed the chain/gears yet?..............andyd

I have Wheel Vintique Chrome Smoothies, 15x6 & 15x7 with Coker Classic Radials 195/75x15 and 235/75x15 front and back, the back is on 2" lowering blocks, the front has 1coil cut, everything clears, the rims are the standard backspacing the original drums have a locating rivet that has been cut off, and the original left/right wheel bolts are used.........regards, andyd

Fireball.......great pics , more info, what engine,trans, etc.......really nice car.........andyd

Fedora, one more thing..........that pic of the rear end shows the rubber fuel line from the tank to the original steel line......the rubber line looks a bit close to the exhaust pipe for comfort........the original setup was just a solid metal line from the tank......have you thought about making a steel line from the tank up to a spot away from the exhaust pipe then use a short piece of hose as a joiner.........you'll probably tell me that its been like that for 10yrs..........lol.........but it just looks a bit close for me..........btw the brake job looks like a good job, that'll put a smile on your dial ........andyd

As far as I know whilst the 39 & 40 gearboxes will both bolt up to the same bellhousing the 39 has the floor shifter that bolts onto the top of the gearbox with no external levers whilst the 40 onwards have the external levers on the side of the gearbox and a smooth top...........andyd

Just a thought..........that bent tie rod might be a deliberate thing as with the hair bags when they are used to drop the front end they may lower it more than it would normally be allowed for with just the springs alone........resulting in the tie rod hitting on either the sump or chassis if it was straight or the tierod bend could even be a consequence of the hairbag lowering.............personally I think airbags should only be used on trucks and 59 caddies...........give me a nice oxy softened coil spring or cut coil spring any day...........lol........the only way to lower cars.........lol.........well not really but better than airbags..........o/k........seriously i'm a hotrodder and would remove the airbags straight away, get the tierod straightened or replaced and run new lowered coils & geta wheel alignment........andyd

Louie, have not got that far into my engine build yet due to a severe lack of funds.........lol....but a lightened flywheel was something i was going to seriously look at, as my understanding is that it with a good balance job will help to get some higher revs outa these ol' girls.....the bored out 318 Poly I have in my 40 Dodge had a decent balance on it and has always been a smooth reving engine. As its an auto, the balance included the torque converter and with a 35/75 cam & crossram setup with a pair of holleys it used to see 6500 when held in the gears at Sydneys old Castlereagh Dragstrip in the 80's.........oh to be young & stupid agin'.............lol...........andyd

Lots of luck.......lol.........I'd really like one also but doubt whether such an animal has ever existed..........HOWEVER.........have you had a look at Pete "Blueskies" website that he created when he did up his 50 Plymouth?.........I have printed out virtually his whole site and keep it for a great source of reference information.........as a general guide for what can be done to these engines its basically the standard stuff........bore, balance, extra carbs, ie 2 or 3 , better exhaust via split manifolds, headers, twin systems, updated ignition via twin points or Electronic, lighten the flywheel, hotter cam grind, mill cylinder head to increase compression, install a finned head, upgrade oil pump, Chev valves( not sure what ones) are supposed to be an improvement...........generally speaking the cheapest way to get some more herbs is to have the head milled & upgrade the induction/carby setup......my 1941 201 cube powerhouse was 95 throbbing neddies at 6.7:1 compression when built in 1941.........my understanding that apart from a 2 barrel carby, 1/8th extra bore size or 29 cubes extra in total and running 8.0:1 compression in 1959 the same basic engine had 140 neddies, an increase of 45 or close to 50%..............but I don't think much over 160-170hp is achievable without some serious modifications..........check out what Earl Edgerton in Ca. doing with his F head conversions etc for Bonneville........anyway just my thoughts.......have attached a pic of my long term 230 engine build.......hopefully will be done soon........andyd

In Australia at least the channel is known as "bailey channel"........at least thats what I've known it as for 40yrs........lol.........you can get it with both a plain black painted edge or the flasher stainless/chromed edge.........me?.........I'm a hotrodder.........chrome is good...........lol.....also there are a few different sizes so make sure to check that you get the right width........the original stuff had small clips that held it into the door but I've found both 1/8th pop rivets and small screws can be used to attach it into the door........also don't forget to do the horizontal single strips or "window fuzzies" that fit onto the door edge and window garnish molding.........have fun........lol andyd

Was only kidding about the paint tho'.......but shiney paint is less wind restistance so will go faster.......I noticed that the wheels are gloss red.......the quickest of all paints......lol........andyd

Could be clutch adjustment or maybe a glazed flywheel/pressure plate........car looks nice btw, when ya gunna paint it ..........lol........andyd

Should be straight as a gun barrel.......it's bent..........not a good sign, whats your toe in/toe out like?...........btw whats that blue thing inside the coil spring?........lol.......andyd

Rock, many thanks for the pics, the weird thing is that my car is missing that lower sheetmetal triangular piece shown in pic #2 that has the hole where the crank handle goes thru yet I thought that there must be a vertical0 piece that gives some more support to the general sheetmetal when the hood is closed onto the latch........there doesn't seem to be enough support there........I have a spare lower triangular sheetmetal piece from a 40 Dodge that I think I could adapt or use as a pattern to scratch build something........am gunna keep your pics as reference material.....thanks.......andyd

Dezel, that looks good........couple of questions......what was it originally made for? and did it come with the recess in the top tank for the cap or did you get that done, if so was if for clearance?.........thanks, andyd

Greg.........your such a killjoy!...........lol.........I was gunna spray some on my fish & chip dinner as a flavour enhancer..........lol............either way, whatevers in it, it works as a water dispersant......andyd

Rock........looks like you have gained 2 new best friends in me and Tom........am happy to wait, thanks and regards, andyd

As someone who has both a V8 & flathead 6 powered Mopars there are good points re both, however if your desire is to be able to use it as an everyday driver and are able to do the work, ie modifications yourself then in the long run it maybe better to swap to late model, V8 power, but do if properly so that if need be the original running gear can be reinstalled ......I intend to keep the 6 in the 41 Plymouth but update the brakes/suspension/gearbox so that I don't have to worry about 70yr old brakes etc and the gearbox will allow it to cruise without reving its guts out........but its YOUR car and its your choice, whatever you feel comfortable with should be the final consideration..........main thing is that it gets used............andyd

Rockable.......don't suppose you have a picture of the sheetmetal on your Plymouth thats behind the grille stampings.........my P11 when it was "restored" was done in a roughshod manner in some areas and there is some sheetmetal bracing or something missing behind the grille........at present when you open the hood on mine there is the small sheetmetal piece that the hood latch bolts onto and thats all........the piece that the horns hang from is missing which I can live without anyway but more importantly there should be some sort of sheetmetal bracing piece below that, ie there is the actual grille sheetmetal stamping that the stainless piece clip onto but is there some sort of bracing there down around where the front swap bar goes across in front of the chassis........on mine the previous owner/restorer has made up a piece of steel strip, 3/16" x 2" bolted to the front chassis crossmember and bent it up and attached it to a spot in the centre behind the grille bars........its not original, well it doesn't look original and doesn't really support it well.........as you have the front sheetmetal off your car is there any chance you could take a couple of pics of what should be there?........1941 Plymouths are very rare here in Oz........I don't know of any others within 500miles.........lol..........thanks, andyd