Andydodge

Your 1940 P10 Plymouth should be 23" long and 201 cubes or 3 & 1/8th" bores of throbbing power inside........as far as i am aware all water pumps from 1935 to 1959 will fit.........andyd

Also check the valve on the booster where the hose connects......I've blown the back off these valves and instant zero power assist tho' the brakes still work........lol........andyd

Fred.......are you trying to multi-task?........lol.........timing/cooling/lol........I'd concentrate on either one first, maybe take the welch plugs out while you are waiting for the new ones to turn up, btw if you do take the plugs out and decide to stick a hose in the plug holes just make sure that the distributor hole which I can see open is covered up while your hosing.......a sump full of water & oil means another job to fix........lol.........once the plugs are out, clean the hole & water jacket and the stepped ridge that the plugs fit into........then dry off and find a drift that will allow you to install the plugs.........andyd

Not YOU again!!!!...........lol.........you still here!!.....lol.......Hi Fred!........your friend, Andyd........the petcocks sometimes freeze up, becoming difficult to undo, much better is to remove them entirely, they have either a 7/16th or 1/2" hex that you can undo them from the block and "free" the petcock up later, once removed you should have a stream of water run out but sometimes its clogged up with crud, just poke a piece of wire in the hole to clear it. As for the welch plugs they are 1 & 5/8th.......when I replace any that have rusted out I always use brass ones, never rust, ever.......and you can polish them, shiney.........makes the engine go faster!!.......lol.........andyd

Nice car........good to see its still wearing all its jewellery, as for the C--v engine, thats o/k, I'm sure that theres someone who will take pity on you & swap an old flathead for that shiney engine............lol.........nah seriously this is a great forum, really great bunch who generally appreciate most styles of car, the main thing is its being used & driven.........anyway Welcome from downunder.........see, they even tolerate us crazy Aussies..........lol.....regards, Andyd(these pair are my mopars)

Don, yep you're right but I thought Fred might want something to do as he seems to only have a few jobs left on the car.............lol.......andyd

Cooper wasn't in those top 4 pics as Bob has him trained now to use the camera..........lol..........great pics Bob, regards, andyd

Thats right Don.........lol...........be the interloper, lol........that looks like the same part to me, its the sort of thing that you wouldn't expect Mopar to change too much.........andyd

Yep, thats the horn wire, actually the earth wire as the horn button is just an earth switch.

Ryan, try Jim Robinson in Victoria, also the usual suspects in the US, Andy Bernbaum, Roberts, etc.......I'll check my pile of bits, I might have one..........andyd

Fred, sent a pm just then but got to thinking, you have a 1940 Plymouth that started life in Detroit, USA, it now lives in Berlin, Germany and will soon have a brake pushrod from Sth Grafton Australia, a part, which if truth be known probably started life also in Detroit USA..........lol...........have you thought of getting your car its very own passport?.........lol........best wishes & regards from Oz, Andyd

Welcome to the best bunch of Mopar maniacs on the web, always happy to help & provide info .........my regards from sunny Sth Grafton NSW Australia..........Andy Douglas.

Hey Fstfish, just check the pic in your profile of the blue 40 Coupe, nice car, haven't seen any pics of that before(?)......got any more?.........yeh, as for cars, I tell my wife I've been playing with cars before I was playing with girls...........lol...........always try to endear myself to her..............lol..........WACK!......eeerr sorry dear......WACK!...........yes dear, three bags full dear.......WACK!........lol.........andyd

And the interesting thing is that the guy that owns/built it is the guy that does the 33/34 ford repro steel coupes and has quite a bit of street cred as far as "hot rods" go, so its great to see someone other than us poor misguided souls building something different.........and doing it well enough to rate an article in R&C.........again, nice car.............andyd

Cooper's got you trained well Bob..............lol.........great pic..........lol....andyd

Thanks for the correction........it was late and didn't go check the car..........lol.................andyd

Fred, if you are just pulling the pan then you should have the pan side and front/rear gaskets.......to get to the crank oil seal you have to pull the crank pulley as well as the pan as I don't think you can get the timing cover off without accessing the bolts inside the pan at the front..........andyd

Fred...........geese I rave on........anyway as far as I know the timing cover seal that goes aroung the crank is the same for all 23" engines, 201-230 cube.........andyd

Fred........I assume that you want the front crankshaft seal, the one that pressfits into the timing chain cover?........or do you want the seal that fits into the front of the oil pan?..........both leak like a sieve..........lol.......the pan one should come with the rest of the oil pan gaskets and is the same right thru to the end of the 23" engine as far as i know, its made of cork and if you are carefull it can be reused with a coating of silicon ........the timing cover oil seal might be available thru a normal bearing/seal company but you'd have to take the old seal to them to have the numbers on it cross referenced.........also check if its the crank seal that there isn't a groove worn into the crank surface where the seal has sat, you used to be able to get a thing called a speedie sleave that was a very thin stainless steel sleave that was a tight press fit onto the crank seal surface that provided a "new" surface for the seal to fit against........ain't old cars great!!!!..........lol..................AndyD

Rock.......nice work, just noticed that you are partial to "P" cars.......Plymouth,Pontiac,Porsche..........tho' it appears you've been a bit careless with your truck preference...........Che..........lol...........andyd

No he hasn't............lol.........appears to be just stating a case of the correct parts being sent........no one is perfect nor imperfect, its nice to have someone else also state that Andy Bernbaums are o/k..........Andy Douglas

Santa spiked to booze.........lol......nah had a bit of the flu, so I thought a couple or 6 bottles of red wine shared with a mate would help the situation...........not sure if it did,can't really remember........ but had a good time tho' I needed a nano nap for a few hrs come last sunday afternoon...........lol........andyd.

I've attached a pic of the rear(same on front on both cars) blinkers/indicators on both my 40 Dodge and 41 Plymouth.........both are motorbike blinkers, the ones on the Dodge are from who knows as I just went to the local bike shop and checked out 4 of the same, the Plymouth came with its blinkers which according to the previous owner are ex Harley, they are a much better made blinker with a stronger orange lens, but either way.........yep they stick out, don't look original and whatever BUT and its a BIG BUT.........they can be seen from a good distance..........you only want to hear some idiot screaching to a halt behind you once when you didn't have good blinkers and were concerned at the time about the "cool" factor..........."cool" can go suck..........mine and my cars arse are worth more than "cool" ............find the brightest, nicest, shinest indicators you can( and o/k "cool" should be taken into account.....lol)............andyd

Norman, fully understand the desire for originality, however would it be possible to fabricate a steel version of the cast iron header/manifold?........as an example there is a guy over here in Oz who sells "reproduction" exhaust manifolds to suit the late 50's early 60's Oz Mopars that used the 318 poly's. the originals have a tendency to crack and he makes these repros from 2"x2" square tube that have a header flange etc welded onto them, if you didn't know what the originals looked like then these are a good and more importantly a servicable option........might be worth having a look at.........what does the original manifold look like?..............andyd

Yeh, its a real nice car, have been buying R&C for nearly 40 yrs on & off, they've had the odd mopar but was really impressed with this one, as whilst its not the same as mine, (1941) there were enough things I could relate to, ie, tyres same as mine, T5 gearbox(haven't installed mine yet) and the obvious one being the same body shell........just a real nice car.........andyd