p24-1953

including a hood that im still not for sure if i will need. i have never got it to the paint shop to have them look at.

update #3 well we/he started by shecking the valves. it appears that i have 8 valves that are in some sort of stuck position. the last 3 cylinders both intake and exhaust are stuck full open. the next two intake only are open. they have been soaking in kroil for 4 days. after 2 days he started to pry or apply a light tap to them with the head off and a rubber mallet to see if he could get any movement out of them. four of the 6 cylinders will not hold oil when it is poured directly in the cylinder. his thoughts are: 1) he can continue to soak the valves hoping to free them, and then fire up the engine once the valves are free. it may smoke a lot if it will start but it might free up the rings. 2) We can have the engine rebuilt. it has 50,000 miles and 25 years on it since it was last redone. Since i have a stuck rings, and valves this kinda make since. Whats yalls thoughts?

well he the mechanic replaced the NOS points and condesor with the known good ones we had tested previously and we got a strong spark off of the 6 volt. However the car would not fire up. Spark good, Fuel good, so it has to be compression. If you remember the other day the compression was low in the 20 range across the board. It was assumed that since the car sat oil less for a few weeks this could be solved by adding a little oil to the spark plug holes and hand cranking the engine. After doing this the compression went up to the 80 range. well short of the 100-105 i had across the board after replacing the head gasket before the fire. well after the electrical issue was fixed and the car would not start the compression was tested again. and it was back in the 20's after sitting a few days. Each cylinder was refilled over the weekend with ATF and oil and allowed to soak. This morning the last 3 cylinders were dry and my compression is 45 80 80 0 0 0. So that leaves us with rings, valves or head gaskets. The first step is to remove the head and check that the gasket is not shot, or the head didnt warp in the fire. We will also be checking to make sure that we dont have multiple valves stuck open. It was verified that a short threaded compression guage was used and valves should not have been bent. I am wondering if the lack of oil/heat caused the 20 years of sludge to cause one valve after another to stick in the open position as the engine was cranked over the past few days causing the difference in comression rating. I dont know what could have happened to cause the rings to fail? any thought? Would oil and atf left soaking drain completly on a good set of rings?

well heres the up date.... First of all the oil pump has not been removed from the car, so those ideas are out. the dist. is set the correct way. We are gettign fuel.. The compression went up after the oil was introduced and turned over by hand a few times. I stoped by and asked him what happens when you try starting it with a 12v battery, we tried and nothing. in fact with a 12 volt battery in it when it is cranked over the amount of spark is so small at the spark plug you can hold the exposed cable end and not get hurt. Apparently we have a voltage drop somewhere between the coil and the points. we have 6 volts going into the coil, but barely have a volt at the points. No I am not paying him hourly.... what im paying him is yet to be determined, i hope he sticks to his orginal estimate.

The mechanic asked me to check back in tommorow he would devote time to the car today, if for some reason he cant get it to fire, i may take you up on that offer.

we have tried both a new 6v coil and the original 6v coil they both test fine. that is a good thought though.

i dont understand how guys go for years with finishing a project car. i go for 6 months with out driving it and i'm getting the shakes just thinking about it not being in my garage.

We still can’t get the car to fire up. Here is what has been done. New wiring harness NOS distributor new plug & wires new coil points cap and rotor rebuilt carb. Fully charged battery. We are getting 6 volts to the coil. All individual parts test okay. We are getting a spark at the plugs but it is weak. Prior to the fire I had a compression of 110 at each cylinder, now there is very little, It sat for 3 weeks with no oil in it as the engine was being repainted and rewired, We have place a little oil in each cylinder thinking that since its dry we are not getting enough compression for it to fire properly. Still no luck, it just turns over never fires. I’m stumped, and about to get it towed back home. I have had great luck with this mechanic in the past but it appears I am on the bottom of the list to work on so it only gets worked on when they can, so a diagnosis that should take a day, ends up taking several days. So frustrated. any one have any off the wall thoughts to what might be going on?

I have done it twice. The first time i replaced wire by wire after bying spools and connectors from summit. the second time i bought a 6 volt harness. If for some reason i had to do it a third time i would say go the harness route. The install was so much easier quicker and cleaner. Also the new fuses located in the prebuilt harness would have most likely prevented me from having to rewire it the second time after the fire. the wire by wire method cost me about $150 dollars, the kit cost $250, but installed in about a 1/3rd of the time. so i say kit.... there are 2 or three 6 volt positve ground kits out there.

can anyone check to see if this one will work for me? PART # 1546755 AUTO LITE # 1AT4101B SER. # 3K828430 or this one? MoPar #1479588 distributor

It gets no fire at all. After I checked the coil my second thought was it was shorting out so checked the wire on the inside. It was good but i replaced it anyway. Next was cap, point and condensor. What else should I check Tim

we can take the cap and rotor out of the equation because i couldnt even get a spark when i shorted the points when the key is on. this is going in a stock 53 plymouth. The mechanic working on the distributor is pushing 70 years old and is very knowledgable, and according to him the distributor is just flat wore out. He removed and reinstalled my new parts, ordered new parts, tested old parts and he say individually everything seems to be okay but when put together he cant get it to fire. odd thing is i had to hot wire it to get it into the shop after the fire and it started right up, but i guess the old girl gave up the ghost when i turned her off.

well after the fire and rewire i couldnt get the car to run. I had power out of the coil but nothing out of the cap going to the plugs. replaced everything i could in the distributor but never could get the points to fire. i ended up taking the distributor to a shop to have it rebuild. They are not having any luck either. What could it be? where can i get another distributor? Any one have any leads?

When in college I was stupid and made a few dumb financial moves. It has taken 8 years to pay everything off, every bonus, raise, extra check has went to paying everything off. This year we have been blessed and have received a Christmas bonus and going to be irresponsible and spend a little of my Christmas bonus on myself. So, when the Plymouth comes back from the paint shop I have a $1000 set aside to spend on it. I’m thinking either new disc brakes or dual intake/exhaust from George Asche. What’s on yalls “if I could” lists

ouch that hurts... are we cranky today.... not enough fiber?

it appears that the vacuum line from the car to the distributor has a small pin hole leak in it. i have corrected that and we will see if the gas milage goes up. The car is a 62 impala with a 327. i know its off topic but the cause of the problems could possible be the same for both cars. And the support network for the impala is not as vast and knowledgable as the one i have here nor do the respond as quickly.

Don I have more than one car.

I keep a log of everything that I do to the car, and I have noticed that the intown gas mileage has dropped from a constant 14 mph to 8 mph for the last two tanks. I have also noticed that the exhaust seems to smell rich after i turn it off. I did a quick check under the hood tonight a see nothing wrong. PVC is connected , choke appears to be functioning. The power level seems fine. No hard start or run on issues. No back fires. Nothing has been modified to the car other than a oil change in 6 months. What could case this condition. Where should I start checking?

check your email but i can post a wire layout if you need it.

Medowbrook, are you the other fuid/hydrive w overdrive conversion george did? he made mine 2 years ago and when i was talking to him a few weeks ago he said that in all his years he has only done 2 conversions.

Don due to the engine fire, I replaced all the wires, a whole new harness. Yep I have the rotor in. How Do you test a coil. I'm just trying to work down the line, but I would prefer not to shock my self or damage any thing

The positive wire from the coil to the distributor is good. I changed out the coil lead wire to the distributor cap with my old one. What else do i need to check. Point are opening and closing.

I'm rewiring the car and I thought it be a good time to test to see if I have been doing everything correctly. When I try to start th car it turns over, but never fires. I'm getting 6 volts at the coil, but no spark. What do I need to check. The engine never even tries to fire it just turns over.

i had a local pant shop redo mine 3 years ago, i removed all the chrome and glass. they sanded and painted. total cost $1400. Tims right location location location.

Has any one had problems with the quality of items bought from Rockauto? My last two orders have had defective items first was my new spark plugs wires that included 7 wires, no spark plug boots, 4 copper connectors and 8 coil boots. They refunded me for these and i ordered a few more items. this time it was a new bosch water pump. This is what i recived. Yes those are where the casting numbers have been ground off. Also shouldnt a water pump turn freely? this thing will not spin unless you are turning it. Last, with our water pumps with out grease fittings how do we grease them or do we need to?