p24-1953

I think the 230 engine will be a nice upgrade on this one. to the casual observer I don't think anyone will notice it is wrong.

ed, I did get all the goodies. Do you know if they have a Plymouth specific repair guide or do I need to use the dodge counterpart book? and if so what would that be?

well I got my new toy home. a 1940 pt105 truck. I think it is in really great shape for its age, with very little rust. the cab corners and windshield areas look to be good I think. I got two extra grills and hood trim., extra dash, extra rim and tires and a extra set of running board brackets. now for couple of questions: 1.) how's it look to yall? 2.) what is the best repair manual to start with? 3.)it has a D24 engine with it so its not original, but I think it should bolt in. ( is that right) a.)any recommendations on the best engine degreaser, b.) size of bolts to install the engine c.) source for new motor mounts and transmission mounts?

This one comes with two complete grill assemblies ( including chrome) and 2 tailgates. The amazing thing is it appears to have berry little rust. Is there any problem areas I should look for?

Looking at a truck in good condition but the engine/transmission/ bellhousing are in the bed of the truck. How are the bolted in? Do I need to check for other missing parts? Same goes for the radiator.... is it bolted to the frame or is there a separate bracket? If I get this thing how difficult is it to find parts for them?

Starter solenoid bypass: Well checked the timing and I am set at 1 atdc so timing I think that is okay, rechecked all cables and connections and they looked okay. So I decided to bypass the solenoid and see how she sounds. I think oldguy48 might be right....

Done thanks for the heads up

Im still chasing the slow start. The weak spark was solved by replacing the plug wires and condensor. But the car s still getting slower with each start. It has the proper 00 battery cables and the battery was tested at 6.4v and 600 crank amps. I thought a video might help . It will start every time but man you have to wonder some times... as a note I never let off the key during this video..n 19533 plymouth slow crank:

Can you use modern 12 v spark plug wires on a 6v system? I currently have unsheilded copper wires and it kills any chance of a radio signal and would like to fix this....

Would the condensor cause a week spark at the coil? Yep I got gas. It wont even fire with starting fluid.

I have been blessed with 2 years of trouble free running, but today the old gal wouldn't start. It turns over fine but never fires. I pulled the wire from the coil to the distributor and have a week spark. Less than 1/16" what could be the cause of this? The battery is fully charged, and it cranks at normal speed so I dont think its a charging or ground issue. Of course the last car show of the year is tommorow , so I got one night to solve this. It ran fine two weeks ago....

The flat head can handle the ac load but it will bogs the engine down. You will have to address the overheat condition if you keep the stock radiator

its a popping not a whine so that helps pin point where to start.

Since the Rewire and Rebuild i have a static issue on the 6v radio when it is running. I am using the same style 6v positive ground alternator, and the same radio. Prior to the rewire i did not have a capacitor on the alternator or coil to help with static. could my issue be coming from the new coil, new wiring harness, or possibly the sparkplug wires. Just trying to figure out where to start chasing the problem down at. thanks for any help

just thought i would update everyone to the total extent of the damage. The fire warped the carb, so i had to get a new one. The fire melted most of the wiring in the engine compartment, which caused all the wiring in the dash to short out. After replacing the wiring and carb we could not get the car to fire up. We noticed that the compression in several cylinders was low and could not get a spark form the distributor. We ended up changing out the distributor, and after removing the valve covers found that 3 or 4 exhaust and intake valves were stuck tight. At this point we pulled everything and did a complete rebuild. It took 6 months to rewire and rebuild everything. All the body panels could be repaired. There is still some evidence of the fire in the engine compartment due to a smoke damage on the fire wall, but all in all everything is back together. Hagerty did a great job. the preliminary appriser had no clue how to deal with old cars and quoted the damage to be about a 3rd of the total repair bill, but after a few phone calls a new appriaser came out and everything was settled.

Just to clarify, that fire was not caused by a rubber fuel line, but rather a cheap plastic filter that split along the seam, (the insurance thinks) I am still planning to run steel line from the pump to the carb. I was just thinking about running rubber at the curve leading into the carb itself, so it should be protected from the heat, but i will reconsider after these discussions.

is it okay to run a rubber fuel line from the pump to the carb? my old line has a nasty bend in it and i am a little afraid of it having a stress crack. I would like to cut that curve out and replace it with fuel injection line at the bend only. Yalls thoughts?

i just recived my new brake shoes from roberts and they all look the same, but when i ordered they asked me if i needed front or rears. Are they they same? or did i get 2 sets of the same ones? (they ones on the car curently also look the same front and rear, but that dosent mean its right....

update. Today i managed to pull both rear drums and found that the rear driver drum was again .45 over and i had 1/8" on the shoes. then i pulled the rear passangers ide and might have found my problem. the drum only measures .3 over but there are basicly no shoes left. I think the brake shop forgot to pull one drum. They must have started to work on it and then got side tracked or something because both major and minor adjustments were all the way in. so the shoe (or what was left of it )was about 1/4" from the drum. below is the better of the two shoes. so now to find a local shop that will bond new pads to the old shoes...

i used rick Powell from the HAMB top rate and great price. Car, Truck, Project, Race Car, Nationwide car delivery by Show Time Transport. 5% discount for all Alliance members, I had 100 positive feedback and many references when the system crashed. So building up the feedback again. Im Based out of SC. I have been in the Racing HotRod business for 30 years. I go to the West coast very often. Enclosed & Open Transport (fee varies). I can deliver from East to west coast in 3-4 days. On time delivery and dependable service! I travel with GPS to make accurate travel delivery. Please e-mail me for a quote racinman43@yahoo.com Thank You, Rick Powell 864-324-1571

Since I drove the car for a week or so after getting the drums turned wouldn't the shoes be arced to the drums?

I have recived the amaco tool from desoto1939 and couldnt wait to get started... so after everyone else went to sleep I pulled the front hubs and this is what I found. The front pads on both sides are about 1/8" thick, and both drums measure out to .45 over. Do either of those numbers seem out of line, so much that they would cause the pedal to go to within a 1" of the floor? Another question about use of the guage. I took the measurement of .45 and split it in half. I then set the dial to .22 (the best i could) and placed it on the wheel setting the shoes so they just barely missed the guide. When i place the drums back on they were so tight i could barely get them on. I had to back both shoes off a little to get them back on. Did i do something wrong? So after doing the front the pedal is now still low, but it is higher than it was before, If the increase in pedal height is the same after i get the rears done then it will stop about 2.5" from the floor. (is this about right?) I will also rebleed everything to makesure that there was no air in the lines. I did find out that the front shoe on drivers side was off about 1/8" on both major adjustments.

im thinking i need to get a brake guage and see if i can get them set up right. so the half pedal line is a fib?

So a few years ago (5) I replaced all the pad/shoes, cylinders, hoses and master cylinder. I installed them and adjusted them by feel. They stopped good and would lock up the front if you put them to the floor but the pedal always went to within a inch of the floor. Since I moved to the mountains I have had issues. They work well in flat terrain but in the hills they fade fast. So much so that the pedal will go to the floor after a big hill and the car will still roll. I have tried to adjust them but never solved it so I took it to a reccomended shop. He told me that he could adjust them properly but that my drums need to be turned. Which I knew because of slight pulse due to a warped drum. When I picked it up he told me that " that was the last time the rears could be turned but they were still okay. However I would have a low pedal because they were fully adjusted out." The pedal will go down about 3" before you start slowing. Its a firm pedal but it still doesn't stop on a dime or even a quarter. Its more of a dollar stop. If I were have someone pull out front of me I don't think I could stop. Is what he said true? can the low pedal because by the condition of the drums or are they just not adjusted properly?

Sorry about that.. your right. It is before top dead center. When facing the engine. Btdc is to the right of the 0 line on the crank?correct?