p24-1953

Installed the rebuilt starter tonight , installed a fully charged battery and no luck. Still cranked very slow with the plugs in. Next I rechecked the timing. It is set at 4btdc. So it is where it was prior to this all starting. New plugs and I am getting spark. I have fuel and it is visible when the accelerator pump is pressed. I installed the known good working carb off of the running 53. No difference.... Switched out the coil with a known good one. No difference. Removed all plugs , left them connected to the spark plugs and cranked it over with the key on. All 6 arced and 2 ignited the fuel/air mix exiting the spark plug hole. I removed the lead to the starter and used jumper cables straight to a 12v battery to eliminate all bettery cables options. It turned over faster but did not fire. The exhaust is removed to eliminate the chance of blockage on that side, heck I even removed the belt thinking perhaps the water pump or generator had started to seize and was slowing cranking. The entire time tonight when ever the plugs were in I never had one false start, a backfire, it never even seemed like it was trying to catch. I am stumped. What should I try next?

Well I tried removing the exaust, and it made no difference. I change the spark plugs, still verrrrry slow crank. I pulled the starter and the rebuild shop said it needed new bushings, I hope that is it but I'm not getting on it. Not for sure what to try next.

Guys it is not the battery cables. It has the same 0# cables it had on it last week, this is a truck that is driven weekly. I am thinking the pop was some how related to the starter. I am planning on removing it and having it tested. It was professional rebuilt a few months ago but that doesn't eliminate it. I am also planning on removing the muffler to see if there is an obstruction. On that side.

Found out last night that I have good spark. It will jump 1/4" from the lead from to the block. It will also cause you to say not nice things. When you are the shortest path. The cables are good. Checked the timing last night and it still good.

Here is what I've got going on. Last week I replaced the gas tank on my truck, while I was at it I fixed a issue of a air/vacuum leak at the base of the carb. I drove it for a few days and it ran great. Two nights ago on the way home while after a sustained cruise on decel I had a loud pop I assumed it was a back fire. Got home let it cool down and went to look for the offending exhaust leak that would cause the backfire. The truck would not start and was very slow cranking. While looking for the root of the problem I left the key on and discovered that the because a piece of trash was in the carb, the float did not close properly and the electric fuel pump fed about two gallons into the manifold. I cleaned the carb, drained the oil, left all plugs out and left it for a day. Tonight I placed a little oil down each cylinder replaced the plugs, and tried to start it. It cranked very slow, still.... I have checked the compression on all cylinders 35 with a slow cranking 6v battery. (90 with a 12v battery.) The distributor is tight and I have a strong spark at each wire. I have tried it with a 6v battery and 12 volt jumper and with the plugs in both turn very slowly. I. Fact there is very little difference. Without the plugs it spins freely and there is a noticable differnce between 6 and 12v The slow turn condition has no change if the coil is on or if it is just turning the engine over. If my timing some how jumped off wouldn't it turn easier when the coil is off because I wouldn't be fighting the ignition. The engine spins very fast when all plugs are removed. If you install any of the plugs it will slow down greatly when that cylinder hits. The starter was rebuilt by a shop recently, but could that be the villain? What could be going on? I have spark, compression and fuel

My wires are replacements from Roberts and I have the capacitor on the generator but I am wondering if they can go bad after a while. That will be the first thing I replace I guess.

I just rebuilt and installed a philco 937x underdash radio in the 40 and it has a lot of ignition noise when the car is running. What can I check or do to correct this?

I would be interested in this info.

It runs.... well at least for a min or so, seems the carb needs to be rebuilt, but it runs....

Getting ready to do the first fire on the engine and am down to the wiring. If I run a wire from the hot side of the starter silinoid to a key switch then from the key to the to the negative on the coil and a positive from the coil to the distrbutor... will I be good to go?

from the old posting.... I mispoke earlier. I used the stock crank pully, so i am runing crank, fan, a/c. I dont think it is a oil issue, because it did it from the very start, on a brand new prefilled compressor, but really it is not an issue because most of the time I have the overdrive engaged. I started by purchasing a complete underdash kit from Hot Rod Air. The Interior Unit is mounted under the dash on the passanger side. The lines are ran to the dryer which is located under the passanger hood hinge. the supply and return line are ran tight along the top of the fire wall and driverside fender well to the compressor and condensor. The lines were bought un-crimped so i could run them a little long. Now, heres where it gets a little weird. I am running this A/C on a six volt positive ground system. I had the Blower fan replaced with a six volt unit, and i run the compressor off of a buck boost convertor. this unit will take a 6 volt charge and up it to a 12 volt charge. Since the conversion causes you to lose half your amps i upgraded to a 105 amp 6vlt alternator. the convertor is wired directly so that i did not have the large current running through the dash harness. The fan and saftey switches are wire with everything else so that when the keys off it shuts off. The originaly buck boost convertor that i used was a home built unit that originally supplied power for a cb radio in a old bug, but it hummed loudly. there is a austrialian company that makes these new that are solid state and so far extremely reliable. it is mounted under the dash. They are extremly easy to wire. All in all did i do it the best way? or would i do it again? It was simple to wire and charging system was in good shape , since i had rewired the car and i didnt want to have to change out all the wiper, heater, blower, overdrive relays ect.... and i didnt want to lose the tube radio. Yes it was the long way around to get something done but honestly isnt that half the fun, But if i had a car with a stock wiring harness and various other bits that need to be replaced i would thing that a 12 volt system would be better. One last note. On the quality of the Hot Rod Air system vs, Vintage Air. Vintage is 1000 time better quality. Several Hot rod air Parts have failed or broken. I had 2 hose end split when i recived the kit. There were no instructions, the dryer bracket was oversized so i had to wrap the dryer with a rubber sheet to get it to hold. The fit and finish of the Vintage air kit is higher. But the money i saved covered the cost of the additional relays, electric fans and 12v convertors.

there is a thread called flathead A/C that has pics and sketches of my system..... http://p15-d24.com/topic/29644-flathead-ac/page-2 yep its on a stock flat head engine. don had several pics of other installs that I copied.

I used huricane system and run the AC compressor off of a dual alt pulley. 6 or 7 years later it still runs great. you can hear the compressor over running at 60+ and you will need electric fans. also I have a 6volt system still... but I don't think they build my system anymore. I contacted them directly and they built one with a 6v blower. I run the compressor controls off of a step up transformer.

Dollop was thathe last message ment for me or st3? I never heard back from you on the pm....

Messing with posting photos...

Ed, I am over there also.... I the one that has been pestering you about transmission diminsions.

Hey guys I normaly hang out on the other side but thought I would show my new toy. It fits right in with my 53 plymouth. The nice thing is I can use a lot of the extra parts I have collected on the 53 on the new 40. https://goo.gl/photos/FB9MumGBnb1i5MXq7

What type of oil should be used in the lubrication of our generators and starters?

Thanks I didnt know about vintage auto parts.

Does anyone know a source for these. No luck at autozone napa rockauto, dcm, roberts.... It's for a 48 d24....

Here it is... https://goo.gl/photos/G4QQNE6cZyDib5XV9

Really, never done that. I do have another on the way, but may keep this a a spare....

Can anyone tell me what years these parts belong to? I think this is a newer car starter... Part number #1473558 These both have the floorstarts, but each has a different bracket and rod... Model # Mz 4602 sn# 9t13644 Model # mz 4602 Sn#11so2247 Thanks....

When did they stop stamping everything with this? I was tearing down the new 230 and the head gasket has it stamped on it. The gasket looks brand new and has no signs of damage. Almost makes me regret taking the head off.

Any head desiged to fit a 218 will fit a 230 right? The block is the same between the 2 correct? im wondering if my plymouth 218 goodies will fit on my new p24 dodge block?