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p24-1953

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Everything posted by p24-1953

  1. With the vacuum advance connected when revved it shows 32 deg before top dead center. Is that not correct for our cars?. I know on sbc that's good.
  2. last night I night i set the inital timming at 4btdc and needless to say she starts easier now. when reved her the timming now goes to 32 BTDC so i think i might be good to go. i will take her for a cruse around here as soon as it stops raining.
  3. i didnt know that the fronts could be converted. How do you go about doing that?
  4. will the rear drums off of a 55 plymouth work on a stock 53?
  5. i talked to the mechanic that did the work and he said that he did set it to 4btdc. so im assuming that since the distributor was not tightened down well and over the past couple of trips it has self adjusted some. i will correct this issue tonight and see how it runs. The self adjusting might explain how it droves so good when i first picked it up and it has slowly degraded.
  6. it is a steel pulley, no balancer. what would be the effects of having the timing that far advanced?
  7. thats part of the problem the dist wont turn any more counter clock wise. I have now read that there is a second adjustment screw but it appears to be on the underside of the dist. and i didnt want to start changing things if the timing tab could be off. I want to at least give the mechanic the benefit of doubt that he knew what he was doing.
  8. I have developed an issue with the car and lack of power. in previous posts i had disussed the engine rebuild and distributor issues i had. i picked the car up from the rebuilders with a NOS Distributor and Carb and a week later loaded it onto a trailer to ship to out new house in the mountains of virginia. I now have an issue with lack of power. on flat land (georgia and in town) the car does well it is a little more slugish than it used to be on the take off but on the hills it has absolutly no power. I have been saying i will get to checking the timing and tonight i finally did. when the light is attached to the # 1 spark plug at idle the timing is not at 0. (in fact this is where i have got my self confused.) on the crank the markings are 10 -0 -10 and when my light is set to 0 the pointer lines up with the top 10 so that means i have a timming of 10 atdc idle correct? ( i can not turn my light below 0 so i assume this is right.) if i rev it... it appeares that i top out at about 22 deg with the vaccume advance connected. so can the tab or crank be installed off? or are they keyed in ? would a 10tbdc inital timming cause sluggish hill climbing? which way to i turn the distributor to correct this? thanks for the help
  9. how difficult is it to get replacement drums for ourcars? the brake shop told me my rears were getting pretty thin after this last turning and would reccomend that i start finding a new set. is there a interchange that i can pick up at the local auto parts place?
  10. I will try to answer all the questions posted so far. I mispoke earlier. I used the stock crank pully, so i am runing crank, fan, a/c. I dont think it is a oil issue, because it did it from the very start, on a brand new prefilled compressor, but really it is not an issue because most of the time I have the overdrive engaged. I started by purchasing a complete underdash kit from Hot Rod Air. The Interior Unit is mounted under the dash on the passanger side. The lines are ran to the dryer which is located under the passanger hood hinge. the supply and return line are ran tight along the top of the fire wall and driverside fender well to the compressor and condensor. The lines were bought un-crimped so i could run them a little long. Now, heres where it gets a little weird. I am running this A/C on a six volt positive ground system. I had the Blower fan replaced with a six volt unit, and i run the compressor off of a buck boost convertor. this unit will take a 6 volt charge and up it to a 12 volt charge. Since the conversion causes you to lose half your amps i upgraded to a 105 amp 6vlt alternator. the convertor is wired directly so that i did not have the large current running through the dash harness. The fan and saftey switches are wire with everything else so that when the keys off it shuts off. The originaly buck boost convertor that i used was a home built unit that originally supplied power for a cb radio in a old bug, but it hummed loudly. there is a austrialian company that makes these new that are solid state and so far extremely reliable. it is mounted under the dash. They are extremly easy to wire. All in all did i do it the best way? or would i do it again? It was simple to wire and charging system was in good shape , since i had rewired the car and i didnt want to have to change out all the wiper, heater, blower, overdrive relays ect.... and i didnt want to lose the tube radio. Yes it was the long way around to get something done but honestly isnt that half the fun, But if i had a car with a stock wiring harness and various other bits that need to be replaced i would thing that a 12 volt system would be better. One last note. On the quality of the Hot Rod Air system vs, Vintage Air. Vintage is 1000 time better quality. Several Hot rod air Parts have failed or broken. I had 2 hose end split when i recived the kit. There were no instructions, the dryer bracket was oversized so i had to wrap the dryer with a rubber sheet to get it to hold. The fit and finish of the Vintage air kit is higher. But the money i saved covered the cost of the additional relays, electric fans and 12v convertors.
  11. I guess the others were cleared out for baby pics. let me know if you want something specific. sorry for the quality of the one image it was after the fire.
  12. I m still running the stock engine, and fabricated the brackets to hold the a/c compressor from some flat plate. I am currently running a 2 groove crank pully and a single groove fan pully. my belts run crank to fan and crank to ac I run the 6 volt positive ground a/c off of the compressors second pulley. Prior to purchasing and installing the system i did not even think about the pully ratio to speed. ( i know... once again i am a idiot.) belt wrap or belt whip, dont know about that, but what i do know is that when crusing at 60ish with out overdrive when the a/c is on i get at sound that only appears when the a/c is on, I can engaged the overdrive and the sound goes away, so i know it is caused by the rpms and the compressor, but honestly how many times will you be crusing at 60 without the overdrive engaged?
  13. falconvan, do a search for my posts. I have a/c on the 53' and it work well. Its will get a little high on the temp guage sitting in traffic, but it will cool the car well while moving. one problem i didnt expect is that it sounds like my the compressor is turning at its maximum when i am doing 55-60 with out the overdrive engaged. let me know if you have any questions.
  14. I agree it is odd to me that a fire could cause internal issues. It may just be a odd rare coincidence. But I can't figure out what would cause the exhaust valves to stick. I am not trying penny pinch just trying to help when and where i can. I did not start another thread about this problem, I started another thread about where to get parts. Don, you are a wealth of knowledge, which is welcomed, but a little cranky.....
  15. Prior to the fire I never had a leak from the covers. Now when i removed the covers a lay them on my flat work bench one of them has a slight bow to it. I assumed that this was warped. I installed new gaskets on them prior to taking it to the shop. I don't know if it flat before the fire or if it will leak now. Is it not possible for the covers to warp. I didn't have to pry them off or anything.
  16. I started it and pulled into the garage after it was droped off by the tow truck. It was not for very long but it did fire up and run easily. It sat for a few weeks oil less, and with no intake or exhaust for 5 or 6 weeks. 5 days of soaking and prying and the valves are still stuck. What I don't understand is why the piston rings won't hold oil. I could see the valves getting hot enough to be damaged since the valve covers are warped, but how did the piston rings fail
  17. do you have a contact fot terrel?
  18. talked to the machine shop today and they are needing a few parts. I thought i could get them cheaper and save some money. The told me i will need new bearings, a complete gasket set,, ring sets. Where would be good place to start looking? know anything im missing? Does anyone know what a machine shop should charge for a complete rebuild supplying part? i would like to check them to see if they are being honest.
  19. including a hood that im still not for sure if i will need. i have never got it to the paint shop to have them look at.
  20. update #3 well we/he started by shecking the valves. it appears that i have 8 valves that are in some sort of stuck position. the last 3 cylinders both intake and exhaust are stuck full open. the next two intake only are open. they have been soaking in kroil for 4 days. after 2 days he started to pry or apply a light tap to them with the head off and a rubber mallet to see if he could get any movement out of them. four of the 6 cylinders will not hold oil when it is poured directly in the cylinder. his thoughts are: 1) he can continue to soak the valves hoping to free them, and then fire up the engine once the valves are free. it may smoke a lot if it will start but it might free up the rings. 2) We can have the engine rebuilt. it has 50,000 miles and 25 years on it since it was last redone. Since i have a stuck rings, and valves this kinda make since. Whats yalls thoughts?
  21. well he the mechanic replaced the NOS points and condesor with the known good ones we had tested previously and we got a strong spark off of the 6 volt. However the car would not fire up. Spark good, Fuel good, so it has to be compression. If you remember the other day the compression was low in the 20 range across the board. It was assumed that since the car sat oil less for a few weeks this could be solved by adding a little oil to the spark plug holes and hand cranking the engine. After doing this the compression went up to the 80 range. well short of the 100-105 i had across the board after replacing the head gasket before the fire. well after the electrical issue was fixed and the car would not start the compression was tested again. and it was back in the 20's after sitting a few days. Each cylinder was refilled over the weekend with ATF and oil and allowed to soak. This morning the last 3 cylinders were dry and my compression is 45 80 80 0 0 0. So that leaves us with rings, valves or head gaskets. The first step is to remove the head and check that the gasket is not shot, or the head didnt warp in the fire. We will also be checking to make sure that we dont have multiple valves stuck open. It was verified that a short threaded compression guage was used and valves should not have been bent. I am wondering if the lack of oil/heat caused the 20 years of sludge to cause one valve after another to stick in the open position as the engine was cranked over the past few days causing the difference in comression rating. I dont know what could have happened to cause the rings to fail? any thought? Would oil and atf left soaking drain completly on a good set of rings?
  22. well heres the up date.... First of all the oil pump has not been removed from the car, so those ideas are out. the dist. is set the correct way. We are gettign fuel.. The compression went up after the oil was introduced and turned over by hand a few times. I stoped by and asked him what happens when you try starting it with a 12v battery, we tried and nothing. in fact with a 12 volt battery in it when it is cranked over the amount of spark is so small at the spark plug you can hold the exposed cable end and not get hurt. Apparently we have a voltage drop somewhere between the coil and the points. we have 6 volts going into the coil, but barely have a volt at the points. No I am not paying him hourly.... what im paying him is yet to be determined, i hope he sticks to his orginal estimate.
  23. The mechanic asked me to check back in tommorow he would devote time to the car today, if for some reason he cant get it to fire, i may take you up on that offer.
  24. we have tried both a new 6v coil and the original 6v coil they both test fine. that is a good thought though.
  25. i dont understand how guys go for years with finishing a project car. i go for 6 months with out driving it and i'm getting the shakes just thinking about it not being in my garage.
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